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Found 160 results

  1. Because of the current situation, I have, as many of you guys probably have too, spend a lot more time under the stars when possible. It has literally been over a year since last I was out doing some astrophotography because of work. So here is my second take after the long break, NGC 3344 (The Sliced Onion Galaxy). Initially I thought it would be a lot fainter than it was, so it was basically a shot in the dark, of just trying to get back at doing this. But the final image actually showed a lot more detail than I would've hoped for! Spring lent a lot of clear night, but those seems to be gone already. I would've hoped for a few more hours to add some more luminance data to it, as I did have to push it quite a bit. I am not too happy with the shape of the stars either. Guiding was not very stable through the night, even though balance and polar alignment seemed to be good. Might need to update my Celestron PEC data? Any advice or feedback is very welcome! NGC 3344 (Sliced Onion Galaxy) _______________________ Image: Luminance - 13x16 min RGB - 2x16 min each Flat and Dark calibrated Gain 111 Offset 40 Total Integration - 5 Hours 4 minutes (LRGB) _____________________ Gear Used: Skywatcher 150PDS Celestron AVX Mount ZWO ASI 183MM-Pro Baader 2'' Neodymium Filter Baader 1,25'' RGB Filters ZWO Mini EFWExplore Scientific Coma CorrectorToupTek Camera G-1200-KMB Mono GuiderOrion Mini 50mm Guidescope ______________________ Software:SharpcapPHD 2Photoshop CS2Deep Sky StackerStellarium/Stellarium ScopeAstrotortilla
  2. Hi. Just starting to use autofocus with the Celestron motor focus and SGP. Can anyone give me some starting points for step size, backlash etc. I’m getting there but wasting a lot of imaging time just trying to get this to work accurately. I’m currently trying a step size of 75 and a backlash of 50. Any tips most appreciated.
  3. I'm having a bit of a clearout to make way for a new project. For sale here are a couple of items that have seen very litle use: 1) Celestron Omni CG-4 GEM Mount + Tripod - £125 *** SOLD *** This is in generally very good condition. There are a few marks, and scuffs consistent with normal use. There are also a couple of minor (small) patches of surface rust on a few of the bolts and steel legs. It has seen very litle use, and has been in storage for the past few years so it is time to find it a good home. The small rubber tips that go on the very end of the feet have perished, so these won't be included. It includes tubular steel tripod, 2 counterweights, built in polar scope, built in bubble level and slow motion controls. Due to size and weight, collection would be preferred from the RG27 area. If you are reasonably local, I would also consider delivering. Price: £125, but I am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection 2) ***SOLD*** Celestron Omni XLT 127mm Telescope ***SOLD *** Again this is in very good condition, and has been in storage for the past few years and has had very little overall use. A few marks on the dovetail as is to be expected. It includes a small finderscope, diagonal and a 25mm eyepiece Can be collected from the RG27 area, I could deliver if you are reasonably local, or can be posted for an additional £8. Price: £110, but am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection *** NOW SOLD *** Any questions please do let me know.
  4. Hi all, looking for some help please! I have a wedge for my 8SE and when using EQ North to align it, it says it is slewing to Vega but ends up all the way over at Polaris!? Any ideas? Thanks in advance! I have updated the firmware, Mount is pointing at north, have inputted my latitude and longitude, I have tried picking the nearest city too and nothing seems to work!
  5. Hi SGL I popped this topic on CN too but noone seems to know anything. I came by an old Celestron Ultima 8 pre-PEC. I really like the scope and the mount it may be that I have read too much of Uncle Rod's and other's praise that I feel this scope has some intangible personality and charm. Anyway... Circuitry in the base seems to work fine even though the batteries don't hold charge but drive the Ra axis . I have 2 replacement on its way to me. Now my issue: It didn't come with a hand controller. I know it is not needed for tracking, and I don't have a Dec motor but I find it would be useful for centering in RA and D.A.R.V. method drift alignment. I was on the verge of making a crude controller out of veroboard and 4 momentary switches that I thought to be correct from the info on various sites, but then I came across an Ultima 8 project that clearly showed the hand controller for my scope. The pic attached is the one. I am looking for help on how the dial and buttons are wired in and/or photos of the innards of the hand controller or if anyone knows what else is inside the handbox. The sources I was going on so far is a combination of the following 3 links: https://www.cloudyni...ding/?p=8015749 https://onstep.group...in/message/6300 https://github.com/garlick/ultima8/blob/master/base/README.md These of course don't include drive rate rotary switch in the middle and if I could I would really like to to restore the full ability of this mount without spending too much on electronics. Plus I don't want to spend time and effort on wiring something that doesn't work. Oh and lastly I have no background or experience in electronics just own a soldering station and a whole lot of determination. Thanks in advance Greg
  6. Has anyone used the celestron lithium powertank (the small one, not the pro version) with a skywatcher HEQ5? It looks like it should be perfect but that is coming from someone who is relatively clueless From the skywatcher specs, it looks like the mount needs 2 amps of current, and the powertank supplies 3, so that should be good? It also looks like the power cable is a double-ended tip-positive 2.1 mm plug, so i assume that even though it doesn't have one of those 12V car battery inputs, it shouldn't matter right? (just to save people some time, i'm not going to bother with a lead battery / leisure battery / jump-start pack / etc)
  7. I have Celestron AstroMaster 130 eq. I know how to attach the motor driver, too. I want to dive into astrophotography. But I don't know: How can I accurate polar align my telescope, if it doesn't have any polar scope? I think drift polar-alignment is very hard. Is there any other way? How fast must be the motor driver's speed if I don't have polar-aligned telescope yet? I am buying my new Orion StarShoot G4 Monochrome Deep Space Imaging Camera. Is it good that I attach Orion camera on Celestron telescope? I want to buy ZWO 1.25" LRGB Imaging Filter Set. Is it good to attach ZWO on Orion and Celestron? Is it a good choice to select these machines? And finally: is Celestron AstroMaster 130 eq telescope good enough for astro imaging? (I want to image DSO objects.) Thank you for your effort and time. Clear skies!
  8. Celestron C8 XLT + extras and SkyWatcher Star Travel 80 (ST80) I have a Celestron C8 with XLT Starbrite coatings. Will include the full length base plate, both visual and imaging backs, scope rings, front 8" end cap and the finder scope with it. No box I'm afraid. Optics are good and clean, focal length is huge - 2300mm from memory. This lot would cost close to £1300 new and one with less spec went for £750 on fleabay recently. Might be interested in a part exchange or will let it go for £450 collection only. Also, I have a SkyWatcher Star Traveler 80 - good optics, used as a guide scope - just the scope itself (does not include the barlow in the photo) - now including dovetail bar and scope rings looking at around £50 for it. I have decided to save up for another refractor, WO, Equinox or even toward an Esprit. However, I would also consider p/ex for an Intel NUC and/or Pegasus Astro Pocket Powerbox. Please excuse some of the colours - I used my astro modded 6D which was in the observatory so the "nice" purple is actually black !! Both these are collection only.
  9. Hello everyone, I'd say it's been about 6 years since I last posted on this forum, oops . Anyway Ive been looking for a new scope something with abit more punch than the skywatcher 130m I have been using and came across this beaut on eBay, I won the auction and picked it up yesterday. The guy was selling it on behalf of an elderly gentleman man who couldn't use it anymore, (it's been sitting in an unheated garage for many years ) he had no idea on the make or model other than its a c8, I did a bit of research and found its a c8 super polaris. The mount has both RA and Dec axis motors but I have no way to power them, the action of the mount is buttery smooth. However I plan to mount this on my HEQ5 anyway... The scope its self seems to be in good condition some minor scratches on the tube but nothing too alarming, no finderscope or dust cover but I plan on adding my own finder anyway. The focus is super smoothe and can't see much if any image shift in use (not tested on a star yet due to preverbial clouds) My main concern is as its been in an unheated garage for some considerable time and there seems to be some minor mildew on the primary which I plan on cleaning... when I feel brave enough.. I don't think the secondary screws are original, should be Phillips head? Tested on a small light down the garden and it seems to be well collimated, but does have a small amount of mildew on it I don't recognise the mounting bar, I would like to swap it to a vixen style bar so I can mount it on my HEQ5 maybe this? Anyway that's where I am with it sorry its been so long since I last posted, I hope to be a tad more active on here. Harry
  10. Time for yet another cry for help when it comes to choosing diagonal. I have read the many similar threads and gathered some knowledge (too many to start linking). I have come some way in my process and now that it is coming to final decisions I would like to hear from the experts. Not many of threads I have read end with the OP returning to deliver some review/verdict of his/her final decision. While I wait for response on some thread where I asked about the result, the eagerness in me forces me to write my own thread. Perhaps some of the people asking these questions before can now answer in my thread as experts!I have the Nexstar Evolution 9.25 and am currently using the stock diagonal. My eyepieces are the Baader 8-24 mm zoom and the stock 40 mm Plössl. I would also like to upgrade EPs and there I'm looking at something better in 24 mm range, as well some nice low power for more FOV. I'm following threads about EPs and SCTs with great interest for this (on CN). Can say that I'm currently leaning towards the 1.25" 24 mm ES 68° and 2" 36 mm Hyperion aspheric (if going 2" route).I'm thinking 2 alternatives (including a budget alternative for one of them). I'm looking at Baader mainly for ClickLock (and expect good optics): Baader T2 Zeiss prism with a 1.25" ClickLock EP (T2 part #08) -OR- the 2" prism with 2" ClickLock (splurging that is). The budget alternative would be to get the non-Zeiss T2 prism instead for the 1.25". Worth noting that I would like to get the Celestron f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector. This would be for future purposes of delving into EAA but of course I would use it visually as well (especially if choosing the T2 route). The reasoning for my alternatives: Go for the 2" Zeiss prism to theoretically get the best of the best in visual terms. I would make better use of the 46 mm baffle tube opening. Theoretically possible to combine with the R/C thanks to relative short light path (although not necessarily needed with 2" EPs). Downside of going to 2" accessories would be the cost, EPs, filters etc., on top of diagonal. Would not be able to spend all these costs at once. Cheaper route with T2 prism (especially the non-Zeiss), not only diagonal but also the other accessories. Cost of the R/C would be comparable to e.g. the 36 mm aspheric and give similar power and FOV with the 24 mm ES, i.e. the 24 mm would act as both. Extra plus is the ClickLock clamp for 1.25" with built in fine focusing not involving the mirror. Downside of knowing that not all light coming out of baffle tube is used. To get the wide FOV (24 mm + R/C) I'm adding glass to the optical train (theoretically not a good thing). I'm leaning towards the T2 as it would be a cheaper diagonal and for EPs I would only need the 24 mm and then the reducer instead of a 30-40 mm, so saving the expense of one EP. Then I would already have the reducer for continuing into EAA. The questions I hope the experts here can help with: The old reducer vs 2" diagonal question. With R/C and the 24 mm I can get roughly the same mag and FOV as e.g. the 36 mm Hyperion (technically 38 mm vs 36 mm and 68° vs 72°). Also reading good things about the ES 68° and with R/C the EP should behave the same. Am I missing something here? The logics say that the I would lose some contrast with the R/C (not using full opening + adding elements), correct? Possibly flatter fields though (not important now, hopefully the EP threads might tell soon enough). The Zeiss vs non-Zeiss T2? Big differences? I have read a few posts on this so most to get some updated views here (have read that Baader has changed some things over the years). Using the R/C (f/6.3) with these prisms. I know f/7 is mentioned as "the limit" but also remember BillP's test where he was happy down to f/6 with the prisms (in 2014 at least). Perhaps most important: have I missed some other obvious alternative here? Maybe I have forgotten some question here but perhaps for the best as I assume those who have gotten this far are tired of reading now. Thanks for getting here though!Thanks,Viktor
  11. Hello, i am new to this forum, i made my account here because i need help. So few weeks ago i ordered a USB to Serial cable to be able to Control my Telescope with my computer using stellarium. It arrived today. So i made my Star Alignment, then i plugged the cable to my Telescope and Computer, i installed the Cable driver and ASCOM Platform + ASCOM Celestron Driver. I started DriverConnect.exe and put the Celestron Driver i downloaded, and did the properties informations ( had to tick on "Advanced Setup" and "Show All COM Ports" ) and i put "COM8" on "COM Port", then i pressed "OK" and then "Connect" Result: Create Creating device Connected Connecting to device Error System.Exception: Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected to System.Dynamic.ComRuntimeHelpers.CheckThrowException(Int32 hresult, ExcepInfo& excepInfo, UInt32 argErr, String message) to CallSite.Target(Closure , CallSite , ComObject , Boolean ) to ASCOM.DriverConnect.ConnectForm.btnConnect_Click(Object sender, EventArgs e) in C:\ASCOM Build\Export\ASCOM.DriverConnect\ConnectForm.cs:line 268 Dispose Disposing of device ReleaseComObject Releasing COM instance ReleaseComObject Completed release. Count: 0 GC Collect Starting garbage collection GC Collect Completed garbage collection "Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected" In Stellarium i set-up everything, the plug-in and restarted the app, then added my telescope and i says it's "connected" but i can't find my telescope. Telescope: Celestron NexStar 127SLT The Cable i bought: https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-CP2102-Adapter-Control-Console/dp/B077G37VL1/ PC Specs: Windows 10 Pro, GTX 970, 8GB Ram(DDR4), i7 6700 3.4Ghz Looking forward for your help, thanks in advance, dragorom7.
  12. Hello guys, I recently got into astronomy so I bought my first telescope. I've read through several articles and the recommendation for a beginner's telescope (value/price) was Celestron Astromaster 130EQ-MD. I bought this from someone who was not really using it and it is in a very good condition. Prior to actually purchasing this, I've watched countless videos on how the telescope works, what needs to be done - latitude, RA/DEC alignment, polar alignment, etc.. After reading through all available manuals and videos, I finally brought it home from the seller (they've had it for around 5 years but it wasn't used much). After setting up the tripod, mounting the telescope and familiarising myself with all the different knobs, I pointed the mount/telescope towards north. The first thing I had to do was setting up the latitude. Since I am based in London, the latitude is around 52 degrees. Afterwards, I had to align the declination axis so the telescope can be balanced. As I understand it, you should be able to move it to any position on the axis and it should stay in that position. If the front or rear was heavier, I would either pushing or pulling the telescope after unlocking the brackets holding it together. This is where the issues began, I could balance the telescope so it doesn't move while in the horizontal position, however, when pointing it towards north, it would exclusively lean towards one direction - to the left. If the telescope was pointing to north, north-east or east, it would pull towards the west all the time. It is probably easier to show it in the video. I've spent three days trying to balance the telescope by using different methods and it just would not work. I've also tried balancing the RA axis first. This could be somehow done, but the declination axis would still pull the telescope to the left. It is extremely frustrating as I don't know what could be causing this. Balancing the telescope should be relatively easy from what I have heard - either push it or pull it depending on where the weight is. However, I have been really struggling to get it set-up. I would be thankful for any suggestions and please feel free to ask any questions so I can help with finding out what is wrong. Thank you. VID_20190918_202940.mp4
  13. Hi, I have recently bought the celestron AM 130 EQ. when setting up , I wrongly assembled the counter weight first rather than adjusting the lattitude knob both at the front and rear side. That made the counter weight pull towards the floor and now the lattitude adjustment knob is jammed, I cant move it counter clockwise. The pin at lattitude is showing 0 degree. What to do. Please help.
  14. Hi all. I have just bought a Celestron 18771-CGL power tank to allow me to get out to the dark skies of the South Downs with my Nexstar 8SE. This is a great bit of kit because it's so light and portable and powers the scope for hours no problem. However, I've also been thinking about getting a dew heater and the only downside of the power tank is it's lack of a second 12v output. I was looking on the First Light Optics website and they sell a DC splitter cable to allow two devices to be powered from a single output. I'm not an electrician obviously, but logical tells me if the dew heater controller is also a 12v device there should be no problem running both the scope and the heater at the same time other than draining the battery faster. Is anyone using a splitter cable in this way? Or can anyone confirm my logic is flawed?
  15. Ladies and gentleman, Thank you for helping me in advance. As a kid I've always been fascinated with the sky and what was in it. The nights sky is filled with beautiful stars and nebulae and I want to see them for myself and be amazed how insignificant we really are compared to this vast open space. So let me adress some of the key points that I want for a first scope. 1. Around €1000 2. Big aperture, I want to see as much as possible and as far as possible while not losing a clear image 3. I would like to have a push to or go to system 4. Beginner friendly 5. Size is not a problem 8. I prefer reflectors since it seems they give more aperture for the money but if you know a better scope that sees more with less aperture let me know 9. I have a Canon 550D and maybe I could use this for a bit of astrophotography. This is last on the list tho and can be scrapped if the first 3 points aren't met Of course build quality is very important when making my choice so keep that in mind as well. I'm looking forward to you guys advice. Happy stargazing and clear skies!
  16. I just made an account on here so I could ask this! I have been trying to install the camera driver for a NexImage camera (for a NexStar 6SE telescope) on my Windows 10 computer, but since I bought this telescope in 2004, everything is out of date. The problem is when I plug the camera into the computer at the same time as having the NexImage downloads disk. The instructions say that when this happens, a "Found New Hardware" wizard should appear, and I just follow the prompts to download it. However, this is not coming up. My computer recognises the camera is plugged in, but for some reason it only recognises it as an audio device. I have tried downloading a driver from the Celestron website, but none of them seem to recognise the camera is plugged in. The model no. is #93712, if anyone knows how to fix this problem. Thanks, Flo
  17. Hi all, After updating my legacy HC to the 99.22 (I had to, because of the GPS rollover issue) and the MC to the 5.23 firmwares (siply because it was there, and I've got greedy), both acquired via Teamcelestron, my CPC was operating normally until, all of the sudden, its altitude motor stopped working. I've uploaded a video at youtube showing what happens: https://youtu.be/p2cHJkPt9Vc As you can see, I don't get any error message in my HC but, if I try to move the scope in altitude, nothing happens (no movement, no motor noises, nothing). When I release the clutch and move the scope manually in altitude, it does move but has a weird noise by the same place where previously it used to make a snap one, which I already reported to celestron tech support once, and even made a video that I also uploaded to youtube: https://youtu.be/KCc69eUSbeY I've already seeked help from Celestron Tech support (and the folks at Cloudy Nights) but any help from you would be very much appreciated. Best regards, NV
  18. From the album: Astronomical Equipment

    I had just acquired my new 8 SE and realized very quickly that I needed an observing chair. So I built one. I'll show you the important modifications I made in subsequent images
  19. Heyyy its me again! Today me and my friend went out to observe! We spotted the moon and focused on it,took some okay pictures with my phone without an adapter( that means having to hold up my phone over the eyepiece 's tiny hole). Then we tried moving towards mars, relatively close to the moon. It wanst a dot but like a small circle with some colour, afterwards we moved towards stars,but instead of seeing these circles with the secondary s reflection in the middle, we saw small circles (like mars but smaller) they were green blue and red coloured i didn't think much of it but then i checked the mirror. And i saw some dust.... Pics bellow.Is it the mirror or is this normal? Also if its the mirror, how do i clean it without removing it, i have a celestron firstscope btw. Thanks.
  20. Hi all, Although I've owned a pair of Celestron Skymaster 20x80s for over six years now, but because they went badly out of collimation, I haven't used them for ages. I sent them back to Celestron, but, apparently, they couldn't be repaired. Amazingly, though, they gave me a brand new pair (!), and these arrived yesterday. Once mounted on the tripod I took a look at the 69% waxing Moon. Absolutely incredible view! Sharp, bright, big, three-dimensional, and only the very slightest hint of chromatic aberration. Kept coming back to this over the course of the evening. Next up M31 and M33. Although quite washed out by the moonlight (as was everything I looked at), I was amazed at the brightness, the size, and the hint of detail in M31. Again, the three-dimensionality was obvious. M33 was only just visible. Open clusters: Double cluster, Owl cluster, Coathanger – all were fantastic, with a variety of star colours obvious, and only a hint of distortion around the edge of the fov (really had to drag my eyes away from the objects in the middle of the fov to experience it). The Coathanger pretty much filled the fov, and was pin sharp and bright. Double stars: Epsilon Lyrae, a very easy split, as was Albireo (again, the different colours were obvious). Mesarthim was just too tight to split. In passing, one of the things that amazed me the most last night was star colour. Mirach, Algol, Vega and many others were all pin sharp, bright, and their colours were very obvious. Globulars: M15 and 92 were small and dense fuzzy balls, M13 bigger, brighter, and with just a hint of granulation to it (like the Moon, I kept coming back to M13). Ring nebula: The ring shape was obvious, even at x20, though small. Being a work night, I was back indoors by about 10, but although just a brief session, it was hugely enjoyable, and a real buzz to be using 20x80 bins again. Cheers, Kev.
  21. I am associated with a college who had purchased a Celestron EDGE HD14 two years ago. Due to the high humidity of the place, there has been quite a bit of fungus which has grown on both the front corretor plate and the rear coma corrector lens which is inbuilt into the central hole. If anyone would know how to disassemble the EDGE HD 14 from the front and rear end it would be very beneficial. TIA
  22. Is it possible to get an extension lead for the handset of the Celestron Advanced GT mount? Thanks James
  23. Looking for a Celestron (made by Vixen) circle V 32mm ERFLE eye piece or a Vixen own branded one. The Celestron was silver with orange lettering. 1.25 inch 31.7mm fit. Vixen own could be 31.7mm or 36.4mm screw fit (which I would prefer). Cash or swap for another ep perhaps.
  24. Hi, I recently bought Celestron Astromaster 130 EQ and I am new to astrophotography. I have Nikon D3100 and I got a T-ring and a T-adapter to get started with it but my dslr doesn't focus at all! It is really heartbreaking Can anyone please help me out with this problem? Maira
  25. I'm happy owner of 25×100 CELESTRON binos, i want to know : a) is really an improvement to use grey filter for lunar observation ? b)is it possible to screw filter on these oculars ? Thanks for your help.
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