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Found 106 results

  1. From the album: Stars and Constellations

    Betelgeuse - 11.01.16 at 21.05 - Canon 100D on SkyWatcher Star Adventurer - 75-300mmlens at 205mm, 30 second exposure at ISO 400

    © Vicky050373

  2. From the album: Stars and Constellations

    Taken using Canon 100D on William Optics FLT-110 refractor on NEQ6 Pro Synscan mount Single unguided 4 second exposure at ISO 1600

    © Vicky050373

  3. Hello, This is my first Milky Way timelapse Canon eos 1200d with kit lens 18-55mm. Made 212 shots at 25s exporsure iso 3200.
  4. Aenima

    elephant Neb

    From the album: 2015 Various

    © Aenima

  5. Aenima

    firework galaxy

    From the album: 2015 Various

    using a better mount and able to increase exposure length :)

    © Aenima

  6. Ok, many of you are probably using the superior BackyardEOS or APT, but maybe the free EOS Camera Movie Record program does have a few users for planetary photography. In any case, I tried it on a Windows Tablet to avoid carrying a laptop and it worked fine, but its buttons were tiny. It is open-source though, so I made the buttons bigger for me and perhaps somebody else might like it that way. If so, you can get it here (I will try to keep it updated as Canon supports newer cameras in their SDK). And when cheap Windows tablets start using something faster than an Atom (and not cost an arm and a leg like Surface et al), perhaps nobody will have to carry a laptop
  7. I just purchased a used canon 500D and will be modifying it soon to a full spectrum camera. I also want to cool it using a peltier module. i would highly appreciate anyone who can advice me on the design of a box. I live in a place with high humidity.
  8. Night 1-first light Took me from 2100 to 2330 to set up all the software. Another Hour to setup scope, USB-2-serial, etc. No direct sight to polaris. Put up only rudimentary polar alignment (with compass), then astrotortilla for plate solving. Problem: as i had a massive polar alignment error, i was on target, but with a severe tracking error- exposures of only 5 seconds already showed star trails. Did a nice shot of M42 (orion nebula) nevertheless. (2 months break due to exceptionally bad weather) Night 2 No astrotorilla available as VM software did not start. Setup only 15 minutes, but another 45 minutes to remember how to connect camera correctly to scope (was out of focus because i had a extension in-between that was unnessessary). Setup again roughly to north with compass. Entered coordinates, date,time. Start three star alignment. 4 out of 5 suggested stars covered by house. Repeated 2 times, always the same invisible stars . Sweared. Tried 2-star align, the same. Tried 1-star align-success, much bigger list to choose from for alignment stars. Wondered why on earth the programmer did these inconsistencies. Selected first star, slewed. Far off target. Finally realized that finder scope not correctly attached. Corrected this. Slew speed way too low- another 10 minutes until realized that "rate" button sets slew speed also during alignment. Success. Slewed to second star, aligned. Back to first star and realigned. Back to second star - directly in the crosshairs, mount tracks perfectly (at first sight). Relief. camera mounted and connected to laptop. Start taking images. Relized that there is still some error, but significantly lower than on first try (Okay up to 10-20 seconds). Shot images for hours until Orion reached trees. Happy Next up: the mystery of tracking with second cam+PHD.... If i live to see the day that we have good weather again.
  9. So far in this and many other hobbies I have made the same mistake going entry-level and then lost money in the long run when upgrading. I already subscribed to Nikon a long time ago so have a bag full of Nikon for normal photography but what I think I want (based on support) is a Canon body that I get modified to stick onto the scope. I have seen some amazing photos taken with entry level cameras like the 300d, 450d and 1100d so what I would like to know is, other than megapixel, what would be the gain in going for a better camera than say a used 1100d? Thanks
  10. From the album: Venture in widefield.

    350D + 135mm soligor m42 lens 3mins x 8 or 9 subs tracked with eq5
  11. Hi all! It's been a while, since the weather has been really autumnal over here up until yesterday evening! So yesterday, clear sky, and I was up and out!! tried to catch some stars with my tripod and Canon 500D (still haven't bought any other gear. I made 10 lights (20 secs), 10 darks (20 secs) and 30 something bias (1/4000). No flats... Stacked them with DeepSkyStacker, and some post production in ACDSee... Playing with luminance and contrast, mostly. Nothing much. I'm happy Andromeda shows up in both of them! :-) I made another one of Orion, but the moon was bright and too close, so too much light over there... Next time... Tomorrow night I want to try and make some decent flats using the same setup... Any suggestions for this? Could the milky way be convinced to show itself using also the flats, or will it make no difference? Thanks for any reaction / suggestion! Gerhard.
  12. COMET C/2014 E2 JACQUES Meets the OPEN CLUSTER NGC 609 23 / 08 / 2014This is my first attempt at a Comet. After having various issues with stacking and a rogue stretched star as a result of a stacking error. I can finally feel proud after relentless hours spent at stacking and re-stacking this image. I feel proud I managed to process this Comet as well as it looks. I think there is a hint of a tail at the 3 O'clock position but who knows... The bonus is the comet is above an Open Cluster NGC 609 which adds more interest. Conditions were good and if I had set-up the Mount better I may have managed longer subs. There is a hint of star trails due to wind and tracking issues.16 x 30 secs Light Frames30 x 30 secs Dark FramesISO 800Skywatcher 200P 8" 1000mm ReflectorEQ5Canon 1100D ModdedBaader MKIII MPCC + Hutech IDAS LPS-D1 FilterHI-RES IMAGE:
  13. Hi All, Had another great holiday in France. Unfortunately only 2.5 clear nights in the week and I picked the week containing the longest day! However I managed to capture 2 targets I have wanted to try for a while and here they are. I believe I over processed the Veil but I got excited as I found myself finally understanding some of the actions in photoshop! I am aware there is a lot of "Red" too - something I am working on correcting as I get used to the camera after being modified. Both were using ED80 on HEQ5 with modified Canon 1100D (with Astronomik CLS filter), guided with ASI120MM on ST80. Approximately 20 x 300 second exposures with darks and flats (taken as the sun came up lol - darn these short nights!) I am happy with them anyway :-)
  14. I've modded (well tried too) my Canon 450D and removed the IR filter and its housing completely and as i put it back together these copper shim things fell out and i dont have a clue were they came from??? Ive tested the camera and it powers up then it wants me to input the date/time etc and if i press the shutter button, it goes into rapid fire mode and only stops when i switch the camera off AND remove the battery. As soon as i put the battery back in, its does the same again, powers up and asks me to input the date/time etc. Ive tried several times removing the back again and re-seating the ribbon cables but it doesnt cure anything. Im not sure what ive done wrong here, as ive modded my 350D with no problems but any help would be GRATEFULLY appreciated. :embarassed:
  15. Here's an image that i just finished processing after finding the lights that were taken months ago on a memory stick that i was emptying and had forgotten about, only had the lights so took some darks this morning by using the chip temp shown in images taken via Backyard Eos. I reckon there's 19˚c between ambient and full speed on my 550d so put it in the workshop with the heating off and seemed to match them well. Needs some more data and my processing is all that but I'm quite happy with it for a surprise find. This image was taken with a Skywatcher 200p, Heq5 Guided via PHD Canon 55D unmodded, Backyard Eos 24 x 180s Lights @ 1600iso 19 x 180s Darks only (taken months later by matching chip temp) Processed in Nebulosity, CS6
  16. Hi, Does anyone know the pin outs for a Canon 1100D battery pack? I am trying to build an external power supply for my 1100D and have bought a cheap replacement battery that I have pulled apart, but there are four contacts across it and I am not sure which ones are the +ve and -ve terminals. I have taken some pictures of the regulator board that was at the top of the two batteries: The first picture shows the component side with the three contact pads marked B+, B- and Bc. The B+ and B- pads were connected to the +ve terminals of the batteries and the Bc was connected to the -ve terminals of the batteries. However, when I connected these terminals up to a regulated bench power supply unit set to 10 volts DC, I was only getting a couple of volts at a couple of the contact pads (shown in the second and third photos). So rather than go through the regulator board, I thought I would just solder my dc/dc converter to the correct terminals to power the camera. This is where my question comes in. Which of the four contacts as shown in the last picture are the +ve and -ve terminals. Sorry for the waffle and thanks if you can help. BTW: there are no markings on the battery case or label itself to help - cheap copy component made in China.
  17. I've recently made myself a 12v to 7.4v battery conversion for my Canon 1000D DSLR Camera. This allows you to power it using a 12v source such as a Skywatcher Powertank/Leisure battery, and ensures there's no need for battery swaps mid-imaging run. If you buy a pre-made one then these are ~£40 from Astronomiser etc.Parts, Tools and Instructions are detailed below.Note: I've put Maplin codes, links and prices for some of the parts for reference, but they can probably be obtained elsewhere cheaper. e.g. eBay, Farnell, RS Components etc.Note 2: This is a guide only and I take no responsibility for people breaking their camera!Parts List:Velleman K1823 1A PSU (Maplin VE58N) £9.99Plastic Enclosure 75x51x25 (Maplin KC92A) £2.9912v Switch (Maplin N84JZ) £1.993mm 12v Red LED (Maplin CJ66W) £0.743mm LED holder (Maplin N85AX) £1.3420mm fuseholder (Maplin CT90X) £1.0520mm fuse 1A (Maplin GJ90X) £0.21TO220 Heatsink (Maplin KU50E) £1.14Canon 1000D LP-E5 Battery (eBay) £2.1912v Cigarette Lighter Plug & Lead (eBay) £2.75Wire ~£0Zip ties ~£0TOTAL: £24.39Tools:Soldering ironSolderGlue gunDrillStanley knifeWirecuttersSmall philips screwdriverMultimeterInstructions:Open K1823 kit and complete using enclosed instructions, apart from lying the large capacitor down on its side - so it fits into the case.Place heatsink onto TM317, will have to bend the component back slightly so it fits in the case.Drill one hole in either end of the plastic enclosure for wires in & out.Make holes in enclosure lid for led holder, fuse holder and switch.Fit items into lid.Cut end off cig plug.Measure & cut wires, solder up according to wiring diagram.Carefully open LP-E5 battery case & remove battery, but retain contacts. (Can cut down small pcb just to leave contacts, if easier)Make a small hole in the battery case for wire to come out of.Solder up output wires from K1823 to contacts inside battery case.Check everything including all soldered joints.Insert fuse into fuse holder.Insert cig plug into a 12v source (e.g. Powertank).Use multimeter to check output voltage.Adjust potentiometer on K1823 board to get correct 7.4v.Switch everything off.Glue K1823 board into enclosure.Fit tie-wraps both sides of wires coming out of enclosure for strain relief.Glue battery case back together.Switch everything back on & re-check output voltage.Screw lid onto enclosure.If ok, then insert battery into camera and turn on.
  18. Aenima

    M42 Up

    From the album: The next step.

    No introduction needed for this amazing nebula, very popular, and lovely to observe.
  19. Aenima


    From the album: The next step.

    Used the filter removed 300D primefocus on the 200p.

    © Aenima

  20. Hi all, last night the sky looked very clear, so i thought i'd take the camera out and try to capture the summer Milky way, so i drove a few miles outside of Norwich to a reasonably darkish site, but noticed there was a lot of moisture in the air, the lightdome from Norwich and Wymondham was sizeable but straight up wasn't to bad, so i set the tripod up and grabbed my new Canon 6D..........and no quick release pad it was on my telephoto at home, D'oh But the milkyway looked so amazing and so close to a city i had to persevere, set the focus, set 10 second timer and laid it face up on the roof of the car, far from perfect but the resulting pics made me smile, this is one of the shots....... Its a single exposure at 17mm 20 seconds @ f/4 and an ISO of 6400. The processing brought out some noise but its lightyears ahead of the cropped 60D in terms of quality, if only i'd remembered the quick release pad
  21. I've modded a few camera now and despite how tricky they can be I've enjoyed the challenge enough to want to take things one step further. I initially decided to buy a cheap camera on ebay to try and have a go at debayering the sensor although after much reading of a certain mammoth thread I've decided this is too many steps forward. Instead I'm looking at cooling the Modded 300D to improve the noise levels on long exposures. I decided on three design objectives for cooling: 1) keep it simple 2) keep the design light and compact 3) Keep the LCD screen for stand alone non PC use With the above steps in mind below is what I've come up with. I used the fantastic Gary Honis camera modding guide for the full spectrum mod. The pics taken below lay out extra steps I've taken to cool the camera. I plan on testing camera noise levels once the cooling system is complete by taking a series of long exposure dark frames before and after cooling. This is a very simple cooling system so I'm not expecting the world but a noticable drop in noise and amp glow over a 5 minute exposure would be a great thing to achieve I think I have now recieved a 350D and if I find that the 300D cooling is successful I will be doing the same to that camera and may also add a temp probe behind the chip to help quantify the coolings effectiveness if any. Anyway here are some pics:
  22. This is my first go at M31, taken with the EF200L and an unmodded Canon 1100D on a Astrotrac. I quite enjoy this wider FOV for Andromeda, its a nice change to see it floating in space rather than squeezed diagonally into frame hopefully this time next year i will have a scope and i myself will be doing the squeezing. Exposure details: 1 hour of 120 second subs, f4, ISO 800 4 hours of 180 second subs, f4, ISO 1600 Calibration frames 200mm FL Clear skies! Callum
  23. From the album: International Space Station

    Canon 7D with Canon 500mm f/4 L IS with a 2xTC and a 1.4xTC stacked. ISO1600, 1/1000th, manually tracked.
  24. Hello everyone, Last wednesday, I tried my first shot with an Astrotrac, which I borrowed from a friend before making the jump and buy one. And I must say that I'm quite amazed by its tracking capabilities, even without an autoguider. I know that the lens I used has only 85mm of focal length, but I only got a 5 pixels drift during 45 minutes of imaging : that's quite impressive Enough chitchat, here are the images : 5DmkII, Astrotrac, 85mm f/4.0, ISO 800, 14 x 60 seconds exposures, 15 darks, 50 bias, no flats, PixInsight for everything except the colors/saturation. From the Southern Cross to Eta Carina 5DmkII, Astrotrac, 85mm f/2.8, ISO 800, 9 x 60 seconds exposures, 15 darks, 50 bias, no flats, PixInsight for everything except the colors/saturation. Pipe, Trifid and Lagon nebulas, with some Barnard 5DmkII, Astrotrac, 85mm f/2.8, ISO 800, 30 x 60 seconds exposures, 15 darks, 50 bias, no flats, PixInsight for everything except the colors/saturation. Rho Ophiuchi A mosaic of the last two images Click on the pictures for a larger version I hope you liked them ! And if you're on the fence to buy an Astrotrac, just do it, it's an excellent piece of gear. Clear Skies
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