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Found 106 results

  1. Hi guys, I'm looking to get a Baader mod to my Canon 6D as I would love to get some nice wide-field landscape images of Orion and the Milky Way etc. Any recommendations for an active service in the UK or nearby? Loads of websites about but not getting much in the way of responses. Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi again! Last time I imaged IC5070 for approx 3 hours, then as Orion rose up I decide to use up the last of the clear skies imaging B33/NGC2024. 15 x 600s at ISO1600 with Canon 1000d, ED80 FFx0.85, darks and bias. Looking any advise on detail etc, how does guiding look, focus, etc. I'd like to try to progress so feedback welcome. It is still noisy, so definitely need more subs. I've also lost the plot somewhere with it somewhere during processing as there is artefacts all over the show! Thanks in advance Adam.
  3. This is a 20 second exposure of the ISS ( I think ) just off the shoulder of Orion Canon 7D ISO 640 20 seconds 18mm
  4. Hi everybody!! Just joined after lurking for a year. I have done the filter removal as instructed by Gary Honis and was satisfied with the results. Only one thing I'm wanting to learn and that's how to do a cold finger mod on my canon 1000d. I have found some links, but mostly any instructions I've found were outdated and removed from the web, so it's been difficult to find a mod to my liking with detailed step by step and supply list. One of my main concerns is that I still want to use the side of my camera that has usb and the input for my intervalometer (currently unguided with no laptop). I can do without live view as long as I can still connect the dslr to my phone on dslr controller for a bigger more comfortable live view. Anyways I really need help in the right instructions to get this done. Any links, videos, or experienced instructions would be a big help and I would be very thankful for. I'd also like to add that I would like to go light weight on the mod, so i don't have much trouble balancing the es 80mm triplet on an Orion sirius. Trying my best at a budget to defeat the Texas summer. Clear skies!
  5. For sale 1000D camera modified for astronomy, the IR filter has been removed to allow the important red emission nebula to come through. This camera has a very low shutter count of 4654 (at this time), and is in very good condition but has a light surface scratch on the LCD (see pic), which doesnt impact its performance and isnt visable when on. comes with a battery and charger, I don't have the original box, but will pack, very well. The price is £130 and includes delivery. This is for the camera body, no lens. Any questions please email me for guaranteed response........clear skys!
  6. Cloud, cloud and more cloud – but looking on the positive side, this presents an opportunity for a ‘project’. Now, I’ve already done the observatory ‘spring clean’ – I even have the photos to prove it – so I thought I’d tackle a project that has been on the back burner for years; auto-focusing my camera lens(s) for wide-field imaging. Despite two attempts at putting the TS Telefokus 105 microfocuser on my Christmas list so that I could accurately focus my Canon 200L telephoto lens on the stars, there were no takers so the project stalled. However, having bought a second motor for my existing autofocus controller to install on a new telescope got me thinking that maybe this would actually be a better way of controlling focus and might even allow autofocus during a long imaging session to compensate for temperature changes. So, I put a third motor on my birthday list and my two sons clubbed together to buy it for me moving the project forwards! Yesterday, I completed it with the addition of a finder-guider that I had in my ‘goodies’ box that is normally used for guiding short focal length review telescopes. Now, in fairness, it is untested on the night sky (cloud, remember, hence the project!) but what I can tell you is that the focuser moves in invisible increments or quickly as required, is ultra smooth and shows no sign of slipping! Unfortunately, much as I’d love to, I can’t install my mono camera as, with its built in filter wheel and OAG, there is insufficient back-focus. This means that the system will be used with my OSC SXVF-M25C coupled to the Canon 200 L lens using a custom adaptor I had made when Adam was a lad. What could possibly go wrong? Front View The two pictures above show the 72mm lens has been stooped down to 52mm using a step-down ring. This reduces the aperture from f2.8 to f3.8 to improve star shapes at the periphery of the FOV but without adding the diffraction spikes that would be a feature of stopping the lens down using the iris. Belt Drive Finder-Guider Connection
  7. Hi guys. Well, I've been giving it some thought for a while now... And while the night skies are shocking at the moment (damn you clouds!!) I've sent my camera away to cheap Astrophotography to have the Baader mod done. I'll finally get some Ha data in my pictures!! Apparently, my 1100D will still be ok in the day time too, using AV mode which is the reason I've chosen this mod. Hope it comes back soon, and the clouds go forth and dissipate so I can post up some new amature photos with a bit more detail!
  8. Hi I have a Sky-Watcher telescope, model AC 120/600 Startravel BD AZ-3 that I want to use to take photographies. This one: http://www.astroshop.eu/skywatcher-telescope-ac-120-600-startravel-bd-az-3/p,16710 I have an "old"(2009 model) Nikon D3100 camera and a t-ring, but the thing is that my camera won't read the t-ring. I read online that it's too old to be compatible with a t-ring. So I wondered if anyone knows about any camera models I can use? I'm thinking about getting a new camera because of this and I would like some recommendations. Which cameras do you know are able to "read" a t-ring? I would prefer the cheapest models Thank you for your time
  9. Hi all! It's been a while since I wrote here, also because this year I've been less active in the field, unfortunately... Anyway, I've now started to do autoguiding, with mixed results. I bought myself a laptop and guidescope, with CCD. I'm able to do 10 minute exposures that come out fairly well most of the time. Guiding is mostly good. I tried PHD as well as Maxim, but lately Maxim seems to be doing better, or I just found the sweet spot for my setup. The last 2 or 3 times however, I'm having difficulty in obtaining decent images. Even with no moon, the images I get are quite bright, with stars barely visible, and the stack is terrible: it's a light shade of grey, hiding all stars (let alone a nebula), and the histogram shows the peaks (in DSS) far to the right, so adjusting that is a nightmare, so much so that the last two times the result was not worth showing to anyone.... The site I go to is always the same, and I already obtained quite nice images, also with 10 minute exposures and the same ISO... Apart from this, I'm having a very hard time getting my flats right... I've got a "flatbox" (EL panel with two sheets of white paper, 8 sec exposures at 800 ISO, the same ISO I use for the Light exposures) that I tried at home in the dark with the scope and camera, to get the right histogram, as I gather looking online: the peak should be at about a third of the histogram. Problem is, which I discovered only last week, the histogram changes with the same setup, for the various "receivers" of the flat image: the camera, Maxim, or DSS. As shown in the photos below (the camera is a RAW picture, taken with the same settings as the FIT picture I used for the DSS and Maxim screen caps): camera: DSS: MAxim: Apart from the histograms, I also always get those very ugly red hue photos in Maxim.. Is this something of Maxim, or am I getting something wrong?? The image obviously is not red, but the grey shade of the DSS photo (the photo of the camera screen shows only white, but that's because of the phone cam)... This means I can never check in a decent way if the exposures are coming out right while I'm taking them with Maxim... So, recapping, problems getting the flats right, and headscratching about the bright exposures I'm getting lately from a setup that already proved it doesn't have to be that way... At the moment I don't have examples of the latter problem to attach (because I didn't finish any stack, seeing as they came out so horribly), but I can attach some, if needed. Any suggestions? Somebody had the same problems? I'm getting a bit frustrated, I must say... Clear skies!! Gerhard.
  10. Hello helpful folk I'm in a bit of a quandary and need some help from the knowledgeable... I currently use my beloved Nikon D600 for astro work as well as daytime photography. The camera is unmodified. I struggle with light pollution. I have a Neodymium filter - doesn't seem to help a great deal. Can't get a decent shot of the Veil nebula, for example. I also struggle with noise gradients in my shots. I feel that pushing my pictures to get the meagre detail that's in them to come out, I end up batting the nasty orange-ness of the LP and the noise. What I'm wanting is to get more detail out of my shots. What I'm trying to decide is whether to get another camera. My budget for astro is not limitless (in fact, it's quite limited by the standards of most on these forums). I could stretch myself and go way up market, for me, and get a QHY8. But, would that really help me when it comes to my problem - OK, it'd mean I can get nice long low-noise exposures. But wouldn't that just mean that I'd hit the LP wall? So, I'd end up taking shorter exposures and be no better of with a smaller FOV? I feel if I did spend £1000 on a QHY8 I'd need to spend another few hundred on filters to go into NB imaging. So, the other, much more gentle on the wallet option would be to get a second-hand DSLR and mod it to full-spectrum (using the IR-cut properties of the Neodymium filter). I was thinking along the lines of a Canon 600D. Would that be a positive or a negative move for me? Would the 600D be even noisier than my D600? Would the smaller sensor be a problem? Any help would be great. This is what consider my best shot from my current set up
  11. From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images

    Using Canon 100D and Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED refractor Single 1/640 second exposure at ISO200

    © vicky050373

  12. Nadine2704

    Pleiades

    From the album: Astrophotography

    Taken with my iOptron Skytracker and Canon 70d with 300mm lens.
  13. Nadine2704

    Orion Nebula

    From the album: Astrophotography

    Taken with my iOptron Skytracker and Canon 70d with 300mm lens.
  14. Nadine2704

    Orion's Belt

    From the album: Astrophotography

    Taken with my iOptron Skytracker and Canon 70d with 300mm lens. Wish I'd stayed out longer as the Horsehead was just starting to show! 25 x 1 min exposures at ISO 6400.
  15. Nadine2704

    Andromeda

    From the album: Astrophotography

    Taken with my iOptron Skytracker and Canon 70d with 300mm lens.
  16. After reading the Sony star eater story I abandoned the brand and looking elsewhere. I used to be a nikonian/touched canon bodies only a handful of times but that should not bias my decision for the future. Any arguments for choosing one or the other? In this quick review they came up more or less even. I would like to monochrome-mod the camera and add a cold-finger-type cooling as well. And I know, there are cheaper mono astrocameras, like the asi1600mm-c arund, but that tiny creature covers only 1/4 of the frame of the 6D/D610. Full Frame CCD's are way too expensive for my budget except a few KAI-11002 based 2nd hand unit, but that piece of hardware has so low QE (H-a: 30%) and so high noise, that a microlens-stripped DSLR might fare better... (and still significantly cheaper) From my side: For canon: - I have a sigma ART 1.4/20 for EOS lens, currently used for videography but could make a great timelapser. - Canon has a somewhat shorter flange distance - in case I have space issues, abovementioned review quotes vignetting, due to the smaller throat diameter (nikon: 44, canon 54mm) - this is a topic in my case, I plan to use a Riccardi reducer on my apo scope. -Canon is broadly supported by the astrophoto community, has magic lantern firmware mods (whatever that means for astro...), etc. For nikon: -I do have and will keep my astro-modded D5100 for the time being. This means two sets of adapters.
  17. An astromodified canon 450D, The IR cut filter has been removed which enhances the red emission in deep sky objects. Comes with a battery, charger, booklet and connecting cable for a computer. This is for the camera body no lenses. Cost covers special delivery, the camera is in great condition, with a very low shutter count of just 1755.......
  18. From the album: Lunar and Planetary Images

    Canon 100D and Skywatcher Equinox 80 ED Single 1/500 second exposure at ISO 200 with light processing in Photoshop Elements 11

    © vicky050373

  19. Hi guys, Just a little advice required please. Wanting to try imaging with a dslr. I have the opportunity to snag a mint Canon 50d for a few hundred pounds, 2 batteries, all leads, and original discs and box. Firstly are these used widely in AP and secondly is this a good deal? Feedback and comments welcome.
  20. Hi all, i am experiencing the strangest behaviour between APT and my Canon EOS 550D: When running a plan, the software takes the pause as the exposure (not the exoposure). In the example i'm adding, I would receive 3 pictures whith 3 seconds exposure each instead of 10,20 and 30 secs exposure. Restarts of both camera and Windows did not help. Other functionality (like liveview) is behaving normally. Long exp. control is "virtual". Connection is via USB (only). All help would be appreciated! (SOLVED-see below)
  21. Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM Lens for sale - lower price 155£ Bought it second habd off ebay before Xmas last year and used only few times. Great f number for astro but realy have to step it down to f3.2 to use it of full frame camera. Havent got much time to use it so have to go. Images to follow. Bank transfe or cash on collection please.
  22. After searching several days I have found a way of controlling my mount using OSX software - would just like to say great effort and a big thank you from the developer of this, works perfectly with my EQMOD sub lead. Just downloading the latest drivers for my Canon 450d and everything seems to work. Would just like to ask are Atik CCD's supported by anyone, heard of a great initiative called the AOSX which encourages Astro software to be developed for the macs. Long may it continue and great effort by people involved.
  23. For sale my canon IS bins. Excellent condition, comes with eye guards, bag instructions, original box, and case. Requires 2 x AA batterys, push button on the top to stabilize your view, I have had some great times observing with these, but have decided to sell them to fund my imaging side of astronomy. Id prefer if someone collected them, but I can post at the risk of the buyer (would be sent special delivery). Im asking for £180.
  24. For sale, excellent condition (no marks on the body) very low shutter count under 4000. The IR cut filter has been removed for more response on red (spectrum) emission nebula. Comes with battery and charger, and cable to connect to computer. Full computer control with software like APT, live view, 12 mega pixel, the camera also feels lighter than its previous model 1000D. Message me for more info..........price £165 which includes special delivery.
  25. Attempt number 2 at processing Jupiter. Finding it incredibly frustrating trying to image with my current set up, so have invested in 'Making Every Photon Count' to help me decide what I should upgrade to! Composite image of Jupiter and 3 of its Galilean moons Canon 70d, 8" Dobsonian (prime focus and manually tracked) 1 x 30 sec video, stacked, for Jupiter I attempted eyepiece projection, but couldn't achieve focus... no doubt I am doing something wrong, but couldn't work out what!
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