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Found 65 results

  1. Next up on the brown carpet..... ?? A very nice, Baader Maxbright T2 mirror diagonal in excellent condition, just a little dust on the mirror. This has 99% reflectivity, Sitall glass with 1/10th lambda surface accuracy. Male T2 connection one side and Female the other, both with original screw-on caps. Looking for £125 posted or £120 picked up at SGL11. Paypal fees paid or bank transfer please. Cheers, Stu
  2. So, with the pending eclipse, I have my glasses ready and some pairs for the kids, but thought I might as well make the most of it and try and view with the telescope and, just maybe, take a couple of basic shots to commemorate. So I spent the weekend making a solar filter to use on Friday...which, judging by the forecast, will end up being used a week later when the sun can actually be seen, but I am still hoping for clear skies. It is a very basic model, but I thought I would share my efforts here in case anyone else was thinking of having a go. Materials were very simple. Baader Solar Filter sheet - A4 Corrugated Cardboard Gaffer Tape Sticky back black felt Double sided sticky-tape. Compass Stanley Knife Ruler ScissorsI also bought a 10inch Embroidery Ring to clamp it down onto the scope (I built it for a 200p Dob), but may not need it other than as extra safety a the whole thing is pretty tight when it goes on. So here goes: Firstly I took two, roughly 12inch square stiff carboard squares that came from two paintings I hung at the weekend and cut two circles from them, a little larger than the aperture of the scope. I couldn't go "full-size" for the filter as the A4 sheet wouldn't cover it, so I also cut a 170mm aperture from the centre of each circle, so I ended up with two rings that would eventually sandwich the filter material between them I then wrapped a 6 inch-wide piece of corrugated around the end of the scope and secured with gaffer tape to get started on the main body of the filter. I did this with 3 pieces of card to add rigidity and so that the width of the cylinder matched the diameter of the discs prepared above. I can't give you the exact measurements as I kind of went on a wing and a prayer when doing that! I then simply taped up the edges to hold everything in place. (Sorry about the orientation of this pic!) When the edges were done, I then "flocked" the inside of the cylinder with two A4 pieces of felt cut in half. Then on to the Solar Film. I basically laid this flat on tissue paper as per the instructions that came with the filter paper and took one of the pre-cut discs, covered it in double-sided tape... ...and then lowered it on to the film so that it stuck. Be careful to make sure you don't stick it to the side with the clear protective film (or that you have carefully removed) because, otherwise, the disc will lift away from the solar film when you lift it as it will be stuck to the protective film. I also covered the inner edge of one of the rings in gaffer tape as this would be the top ring, exposed to the elements and it would be impossible to cover once the solar film was in place. Anyway, I forgot to take a photo at this stage, so you will have to use your imaginations I'm afraid. Having stuck the film to one ring, I took the other ring (already covered in double-sided tape) and connected the two to sandwich the solar film in between. I then trimmed the excess Then it was just a matter of joining everything together. So I took the filter rings and placed them over the cylinder And secured everything in place And then just covered the whole thing in gaffer tape to "seal" it all up And there it is. It fits very snugly on the scope and seems to be doing it's job. I still have to test it with the sun, but it blocks out the light from various halogen bulbs around the house with, seemingly, no leakage around the edge where the cylinder joins the discs. Will hopefully get a chance to test it out before Friday. I don't know if the filter sitting 2-3 inches away from the natural scope aperture will be a problem but I can easily adjust it after testing if it doesn't work - I am sure it will be fine though. It's not pretty, but it seems to work and, if I look after it, I should be able to get some use out of it! And I have just enough solar film to repeat (on a smaller scale) for the finder scope. Hope that is helpful to anyone thinking about doing the same! Just remember to check the film before using it to look directly at the sun and, if it is damaged in anyway, don't use it!
  3. Hi all, Finally a gap through the clouds! Took this picture 10 minutes ago with my Nikon D3100 and a Sigma 70-300mm telezoom lens. Baader Solar Filter, 300 mm at ISO 100 F/30; Raw edited and converted to JPEG using Adobe Lightroom. Click to Enlarge:
  4. AlastairW

    IC1805 Heart Nebula

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    IC1805 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  5. The Baader zoom is known for it's great versatile performance with h-alpha. Unfortunately as many of you Lunt 50mm owners know, it does not reach focus with the scope due to a lack of in focus. I saw saguaro's post here: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/475199-anyone-with-the-new-lunt-50mm-pt/?p=6476959 but the adapters would set me back $40+. I went ahead and ordered a shorter eyepiece holder for the blocking filter- one that is 15mm tall vs the 30mm height of the original. Made sure to get one with setscrews to protect my eyepiece barrels from scratches. Arrived from China surprisingly fast- 9 days from the day I ordered. Box The pieces. Original on left, new one on right. Height difference. Original on left again. Attached to blocking filter. Original configuration seen first. Zoom in blocking filter. Notice the small gap. It's caused by the eyepiece barrel resting on the blocking filter. Not by any means a bad thing. Proof it reaches focus. There's still some extra in travel left.
  6. Hi all, after reading through SGL, i decided to get a full aperture 200mm baader film-based filter for sun observations (and doubling the theoretical observation time! ). I was wondering whether combining the solar film for removing all excess energy plus adding a standrad 2" H-Alpha filter would make sense? Or am i missing something? NOTE : NEVER POINT A SCOPE AT THE SUN WITHOUT HAVING MOUNTED AN APPROPRIATE SUN PROTECTION FILTER IT WOULD IMMEDIATELY DESTROY YOUR EYES!
  7. As title says wanted a 1.25" Baader Semi APO filter. Must be in very condition with case.
  8. So I've just started in prime focus imaging. The images could do with magnification. I have the attachments to put the DSLR on the Baader Hyperion but have not really had much luck so far with getting decent images. I realise a barlow lens would probably suffice. All this kit is eating away my funds. So I was thinking, I have the extension tubes for the Hyperion. Could I take the end lens of the Hyperion attach it to the extension tubes to account for the increased focal length then attach it to the 2inch adapter which is already attached to the Camera? I guess the only way to know is to try, but I wondered if anyone else has had this idea or had tried this already. Also, :-) I'm thinking the next thing I need to purchase is a guide scope and guide camera. The newt scope I own is 1200 mm focal length and the guide scope I'm looking at is 328 mm so I'll end up with an imaging / guide ratio of about 3.5. With the increased focal length from the 2x barlow would that mean I will need to consider an even greater focal length guider or more expensive smaller pixel size guide camera? Thanks,
  9. Guys/Girls, I have the basic Celestron EP and filter set that seems to be the same across all makes with the only difference of the name branding on the metal carrycase. I have made enquiries for a decent eyepiece for planets and moon and also the larger DSO's and have been pointed in the direction of the Baader Hyperion Zoom MK 4 which falls within my £200 budget. Any user opinions on this ep and experience? Other suggestions welcome! Thanks
  10. I have had my Hyperion Zoom Mk.III for quite a while now and I was wondering, if I should review it here, because what there is to say about an eyepiece, really? You just shove it into your focuser and look down the glass end, right? Well, since the Hyperion Zoom is effectively 5 eyepieces in 1 (I don’t really think it’s that big of a deal), it is not really a “static” piece of equipment, and there is lot of “accessory” for it, I thought I’d give it a try. Optics Optically, the eyepiece is a “seven element eyepiece, with multi-coated optics for remarkable sharpness, contrast and colour correction.” I am in no way an expert in optics, but I have to say that the quality of the image outperforms my pervious eyepieces, primarily in sharpness and contrast. I even had a 12mm Hyperion normal eyepiece for some time, and when compared, the views through the two were pretty much the same. Even in my F/5 dobsonian, the image distortion at the edge of the field of view is really not bad - though there, I do not really notice it that much; it is only when I zoom out to 24mm focal length that the distortions become really noticeable. There is a shaft, sticking out of the body of the eyepiece, in which the movable part of the zoom mechanism moves in and out, and I simply never get tired of the action-packed zoom action. One problem can arise though, and that is that any imperfections on the surface of the lenses inside the eyepiece can get, due to its zoom nature, visible at some point - that way, I once noticed a quite large piece of dirt inside the optics, which came into focus in 12mm position - this was really bothering me, because it was extremely disturbing, especially when observing the Sun or the Moon. Luckily, somehow, the piece of dirt disappeared (after bumping the EP gently on the table), so there is no need for returning it to the supplier. The piece of dirt did not appear again ever since. It is said that normal eyepieces outperform zoom eyepieces, but I am not so sure. Well, on one hand, you get a narrower field of view, that is true, but the quality of the image delivered (with Hyperion Zoom in particular) is really very good and if you are not traditionalist, or fond of ultra-wide fields of view, this age-old paradigm suddenly gets null and void and a concept of having half a dozen eyepieces suddenly gets, well, stupid. Having one decent Zoom eyepiece just seems more practical. Personally, since I have bought my Hyperion Zoom, I have not felt any need of buying a new eyepiece (for the particular range of magnifications), because it embodies everything I do (and will) need at the moment. Furthermore, the edges of the lenses are apparently blackened, and the EP’s construction allows very little or practically no reflections of brighter objects. Accessory The Hyperion Zoom comes with a wide range of “accessory”, if that is the right word; basically you get two different rubber eye cups (I even got a rubber eye shield, but I am not sure if that was part of the package, or a gift from the supplier), and both allow you to use the eyepiece comfortably, even when you are a glasses wearer; the eye relief is generous enough to allow that, though I am sure there are EPs with better eye relief than Hyperion Zoom. Furthermore, you get adapters for both 2” and 1.25” focusers. I personally prefer to use the 2” one with my 300P, because it feels more firm and solid, and the inside of the 2” adapter is “baffled”, which seems nice. One thing that I do not really get is that when you use 2” adapter, you can’t use 1.25” colour filters at the same time. The shaft, in which the movable part of the eyepiece moves in, is of just the right diameter, and it even has a thread on the end of it; but somehow, the boffins at Baader did not think to make it standard 1.25” filter thread, and that is a pity. I think it would be wonderful to have a freedom of filter choice, but that way, you can only use 2” filters with the 2” adapter and 1.25” filters with the 1.25” adapter; too bad. Perhaps, they will address that on Mk.IV. Furthermore, you get a wash of dust covers, just in case you use any of the possible combinations of eye cups and adapters, which means you can easily lose one if you are not careful. The eyepiece also comes with rather elegant leather-ish bag for you to store it in, which I, think is a rather nice touch. Usage The most prominent feature of this Zoom eyepiece is its…well…zoom capability. The eyepiece has click stops at 8, 12, 16, 20 and 24 mm focal lengths, which means that it can deliver a wide range of magnifications, depending on your telescope’s focal length. I for instance have a 305/1500 dobsonian, which means that I get 62x, 75x, 94x, 125x and 187x magnifications, which is a range good enough for most objects up there. It should be said that the EP’s field of view varies with focal length - basically, the shorter the focal length, the wider the field of view; the longer the focal length, the narrower the field of view (it’s actually 68° FOV with 8mm and 50° FOV with 24mm). Of course you can use any focal length between the click-stop position as well. Furthermore, though advertised, the eyepiece is not perfectly parfocal (meaning that it holds focus at all focal lengths), which means you have to refocus every time you change the EP’s focal length. I know that there are eyepieces with better FOV that are perfectly parfocal, but these can get way more expensive than the Hyperion Zoom. It is fair to say that I have heard that some people find their zoomy Hyperions stuck when it’s freezing out there, and thus the eyepiece needs regreasing. However, I have used mine in temperature below -7°C all night, and although the zoom action felt more stiff, it did not get stuck even a bit, so if there really is a problem with it freezing solid, I reckon it is an effect prominent overtime. However, the Hyperion Zoom is not that cheap - it costs roughly the same as two fixed focal length Hyperion eyepieces, which is quite a lot, but then, you get a variety of magnifying power in one eyepiece, and it is just great not having to change the eyepieces all the time, every time you want to try different power. One of the best things on this eyepiece comes with it zoom capability - without having to change the eyepieces, you can toy around with magnifications to see which magnification delivers the best contrast on the object you are looking at - this is due to the fact that the contrast of the background often changes with magnification (e.g. when you zoom in, the background gets darker), which means that some dim objects can miraculously pop up, or seem more distinct. There is a slight issue with having to refocus all the time but when you concentrate on some fuzzy blob, you see the change in contrast when you change magnifications, even though the image is not perfectly focused. This gives you an ability of very quickly and easily changing the views through your telescope to see which one fits the situation the best, and I think this is one of the main advantages of any zoom eyepiece. The eyepiece itself is quite bulky and heavy (when compared to standard 1.25” eyepieces), which on its own is ok - you get a good sense of its build quality and heftiness - but it becomes a problem when you want to use the eyepiece with some more basic, entry level telescopes. For instance, I have a Skywatcher 114/900 with a plastic 1.25” rack-and-pinion focuser and it really struggles with the Hyperion Zoom. The eyepiece is so heavy that it bends the focuser tube this way and that way and upsets the balance of the whole setup considerably. This means that perfect collimation, is, at this point, really unimportant. I have yet to try the eyepiece in my Firstscope 76, but I reckon it will handle the eyepiece a bit better, because its focuser feels slightly more robust. Upsides “5-in-1” zoom concept No need for eyepiece swapping Zoom ability lets you find the ideal contrast magnification Decent build-quality, big and robust Wide range of accessory (adaptors, eye cups) Good contrast and sharpness, comparable to fixed focal-length Hyperions Smooth zoom action, even in low temperatures Good eye relief Good for afocal projection No inside reflections Downsides Narrower field of view with low magnifications Inability to use 1.25” filters with 2” adapter More expensive than regular eyepieces Dirt inside the optics can get into focus, which is really annoying Apparently can freeze solid in sub-zero temperatures (not proven) Heavy Not suitable for entry-level telescopes
  11. after advertising for a uhc filter and never used one before i had to rely solely on recomendations ,reviews and comments .with that in mind i turned down several offers of the baader uhc-s and paid a little more for a s/h lumicon uhc 1.25". i declined the uhc-s on the basis of it being more broad than narrow. with a 8" newtonian i thought a dedicated uhc would be a better choice.i dont know if ive dropped a clanger by opting out but i will give a novice's first immpresion once ive had a go with this lumicon.
  12. Baader being more known to me, but Lunt seem more specialist. Which is better optically, and which has better heat tolerance for long sessions?
  13. This listing is also on ABS but though I would add here too, need to shift it. Selling my Televue x2.5 Powermate which is in excellent condition with original box. Looking for £125 ono via PayPal fees paid or bank transfer. I have the T2 adaptor also available at £32, and a Baader clicklock adaptor BA2458100 for £40 will do the lot at £190. Cheers, Stu
  14. Having sold my RC, this superb focuser is no longer required. It is in near mint condition - you can read the full description and see more images at http://darrenjehan.me.uk/for-sale-baader-steel-track-focuser-and-steeldrive/ and see the full specifications at https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-diamond-steeltrack-focusers/baader-steeltrack-diamond-rt-for-refractors.html Price includes insured UK delivery. Paypal (+fees or f&f). Collection from Bedford at suitable reduction £455
  15. A quick shot from this morning at around 06.45am with interesting terminator details. The atmosphere was all over the show, but at least there was no cloud for a change! 66mm ED APO Baader Hyperion Zoom Sigma DP3M A-Focal - Single Shot Paul
  16. Hi, These Baader Narrowband 2'' mounted filters are for sale. In perfect condition! No dust, scratches. I have barely used them and now I have switched to QSI 36mm unmounted. Baader 2" H-Alpha Filter - 7nm for astrophotography - 140 GBP Baader 2" O-III CCD Filter - 8.5nm - 110 GBP Baader 2" S-II Sulfur Filter - 8nm -110 GBP 360 GBP Total price. I prefer not to split them. Thank you!
  17. Hello I have recently bought an Orion XT8 dobsonian (f/5.9, focal length 1200mm) which comes with a 25mm Orion Sirius Plossl (AFOV 52°). At the moment, this is my only eyepiece. I need advice on which eyepiece(s) to buy for both planetary and deep sky observing. Because my budget is only about £150 (~200$) and I would like to buy a high quality eyepiece which I can continue using as I get more experience and better equipment, I thought it would make sense if I only bought one eyepiece, preferably with a low enough focal length for some planetary observing but a high enough one for smaller deep sky objects. I know this is slightly unrealistic but for the time being I don't mind being able to see very little detail on Jupiter/Saturn and Mars as a very small red dot. I was considering buying a Baader Hyperion 8-24mm zoom, but the low field of view at 24mm (50°) put me off slightly as it renders the eyepiece useless for me at that focal length (as I already have the 25mm plossl). The ES82 series seems like a good option and I was considering getting the 8.8mm or the 6.7mm. Thank you, Ben
  18. Due to upgrades I'm selling my 'surplus' eps: Baader Classic Ortho 10mm and 6mm - £29 each posted or £50 the pair posted (UK only) - BOTH SOLD SW Super Wide Angle 25mm with original packaging and used once - £8 posted (UK only) Paypal gift or cash if collected. See pics - all eps have end caps. Note that I don't have original boxes for Baaders but they will be boxed and wrapped for postage. PM me if you have any questions.
  19. I am the happy owner of an ES 82 degree 18 mm eyepiece that I use together with a Baader MPCC coma corrector on my SW 200 mm f/5 Newtonian. Until now I have been using the CC directly attached to the filter thread of the eyepiece, which I know is not correct. I now wish to buy the corresponding spacers so to be able to use the optical system correctly, but this is seemingly more difficult than I first supposed. According to the CC specifications, the distance between the flat surface and the focal plane (camera or eyepiece) should be 55 mm. I have verified this when using the CC photographically and that worked fine. If one removes the T-2 adapter and uses the M48 thread instead, as I do for use with the eyepiece, this distance becomes 57.5 mm. Thanks to this table in a post in Cloudy Nights I was able to figure out that I need a spacing of 32.5 mm between the coma corrector and the eyepiece. The post includes some references to spacers, but aside from the Baader ones (28 and 14 mm, see here) I am having trouble to find suitable spacers in European retailers that would add up to 32.5 mm. This is why I would like to ask you for help. Has anyone solved this problem before? If so, how? Where can I buy spacers suitable for adding 4.5 mm optical path to a system with 2", M48 threads? Thanks in advance and clear skies!
  20. I decided to splash out and buy a Hutech IDAS D1 light pollution filter and purchased one to fit my Baader Coma Corrector. Unfortunatley I have now discovered that the M48 Hutech filter attached to the coma corrector will not fit into the draw tube of my Sywatcher Quattro OTA. The problem is not with the filter; it has a dia of 2" and is no wider than the coma corrector. In the image below you will see the black adapter that screws into the draw tube. The problem is that the inner diameter of the adapter is somewhat larger than 2" whilst the inner diameter of the drawtube itself is smaller than 2". When inserted into the adapter, the Coma Corrector takes up the full length of the adapter and any filter that is attached needs to pass into the draw tube itself in order for the camera to fit flush with the end of the adapter. With the Hutech attached to the coma corrector the camera is pused out by around 6mm. Given that the inner dia of the adapter is "too big" this means that there is no firm connection between the 2" coma corrector and the adapter and it is held only loosely by just the two adapter screws. The possible solution I have come up with is to replace the adapter with a new one that does in fact have a dia of 2", extends out from the end of draw tube by at least another ~6mm and ideally has a compression ring rather than simple screws. The Baader 4in1 optical back looks like it might do the trick but I cannot find the exact details of the interface it presents to the draw tube. My current Skywatcher adapter has an M54.5x1mm male thread that screws into the thread on the inside of the drawtube. 1. Has anyone successfully connected the Baader 4in1 optical back to their Skywatcher Quattro? 2. Does the "M56" thread adapter that comes with the Baader 4in1 have a male or female thread and if male, do you know its actual specifications/dimensions? 3. If I were to remove the M56 and M60 adapaters from the Baader 4in1 I understand that I would be left with an M68 thread. Does anyone have any exact specifications for this thread and does anyone know if I can get a converter from that M68 thread to the M54.5x1 thread that I need? 4. Does anyone use an alternative adapter with their Skywatcher Quattro and if so, do you know the distance between the end of the drawtube and face of the adapter (I need this distance to be in the range ~18 to 28mm in order for the comma corrector to sit flush with the end of the adpater and also be able to achieve focus with my Nikon)? Sorry for the very long post and and all the questions but I am really stuck and would greatly appreciate any help you could give. Cheers Mike
  21. Sorry I could not find this by searching the site ... Does anyone know if the TS 9mm OAG will fit between a Baader MPCC and a Nikon camera with the correct 55mm spacing? And if so, do you know what adaptors to order with the OAG to achieve it? (BTW, I've sent an email to TS and I am waiting for a reply. I'll post it here when I get it in case anyone else is interested. ). Thanks guys Mike
  22. I have just sold some books so thought I'd treat myself to one of these filters. I have wanted one for a while to see if it provides sharper detail on the moon and easier splits on things like Sirius when seeing is poor.It may go nowhere but will be interesting to see what it's like. They seem quite uncommon used so I should be able to sell for not too much loss if it turns out to be less effective than I hoped. There does not seem to be much about them online for visual although some planetary imagers use them to cut through bad seeing. I'll report back when it arrives but I suspect it's not in stock where I bought it so might be a week or two before it comes. Cheers Shane
  23. Bought this binoviewer with the 3 glasspath compensators(GK) when the local astroshop had sale on them for about a month ago, have only managed some few sessions with them, at most halv an hour in a seesion due to the lousy weather. Here's a short summary of my impressions: (For those who are interested, there's more extensive information about the Maxbriht or binoviewer in general here http://www.iceinspace.com.au/42-717-0-0-1-0.html) 1. Quality: Solid and neat build, very good precision virtually everything, things like BCO 18mms slide in the EP holders smoothly, yet not slacken a bit; or the plastic rings for fitting the GKs into 2" focuser, they just fit right there with under mm precision and don't fall down into the diagonal. Also like other quality stuffs, there's this very good instruction manual available for understanding how to use binoviewer properly. http://www.alpineastro.com/Binoviewers/Maxbright%20Binoviewer%20Instructions.pdf 2. Achieving focus: SCT: As we all know, SCT has lots of back focus, and is one the most binoviewer friendly scope, no problem at all to achieve focus even without any GK. Refractor: 80ED has only about 70mm back focus, when using 2" diagonal, the Maxbright can only achieve focus with the 2.6x GK together with a T2 type converter in place of the 2" eyepiece holder. but, if a barlow is added in front of the 1.25" nosepiece, (even if only the 1.3X or 1.5x part of a barlow) the focus can be achieved easily with/without a GK in ehther 1.25" or 2" diagonal. 3. Viewing: It's a little more difficult than viewing through a usual binocular as mentioned the manual above, to merge the image that come from two EPs, not only the interpuillary distance should be correct, eye placement need to be quite precise too if your eyes are unflexible as mine. My son had no problem at all to get a merged image, and it took me a while to find mine. I've only looked at Jupiter and the Moon with Maxbright. The viewing is just as good as many others have decribed, simply excellent. The power of brain with view through two eyes surpass the effect of less total light, the merged image has some kind of 3D effect not present in a single EP view. The same details in Jupiter seen in 127x(16mm MV) with single EP were present in 192x with Maxbright, the almost full moon could be viewed in 294x with Maxbright comfortably, without any disturbing floaters To sum it up, it can be a little hassle to use it (changing GK), some practice to find your eye placement, but the views through it and comfort of viewing can really make you stare in Jupiter or the Moon for hours, if it's not freezing cold or you're on hands or knees. i.e.
  24. AlastairW

    Melotte 15

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    Melotte 15 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  25. Dan Watts

    Eyepiece Case

    From the album: Scope & Equipment

    Finally got my Maplins case and yes, I went a bit crazy over Xmas and now have a nice little collection of 82° Explore Scientific Eyepieces :) I have yet to go outside with these new EP's as of yet, I cannot wait to give them a run! Got other little bits in there...some filters (UHC / Moon & Neodymium), Baader x2.5 Barlow etc.
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