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Found 65 results

  1. LaserColli mkiii in good condition. Makes keeping your Newtonian scope aligned very easy. Comes still boxed. Only selling as I’m selling my scope and won’t need it. It takes 3 small button cell hearing aid type batteries. The existing ones are flat so you’ll need new ones. Some very small marks on the barrel as seen in picture which make no difference to its operation. I don’t have the instructions but I’m sure they will be online somewhere. If I find them I’ll include. I think these units go for around £85-£90 new. Happy to take £55 inc. postage from France. PayPal only please.
  2. As new condition ultra narrowband 1.25" Baader filter. 3.5nm bandpass for nice small stars. Bought and loved it, but using a DSLR again and have no use for this filter. £140, can post.
  3. Time for yet another cry for help when it comes to choosing diagonal. I have read the many similar threads and gathered some knowledge (too many to start linking). I have come some way in my process and now that it is coming to final decisions I would like to hear from the experts. Not many of threads I have read end with the OP returning to deliver some review/verdict of his/her final decision. While I wait for response on some thread where I asked about the result, the eagerness in me forces me to write my own thread. Perhaps some of the people asking these questions before can now answer in my thread as experts!I have the Nexstar Evolution 9.25 and am currently using the stock diagonal. My eyepieces are the Baader 8-24 mm zoom and the stock 40 mm Plössl. I would also like to upgrade EPs and there I'm looking at something better in 24 mm range, as well some nice low power for more FOV. I'm following threads about EPs and SCTs with great interest for this (on CN). Can say that I'm currently leaning towards the 1.25" 24 mm ES 68° and 2" 36 mm Hyperion aspheric (if going 2" route).I'm thinking 2 alternatives (including a budget alternative for one of them). I'm looking at Baader mainly for ClickLock (and expect good optics): Baader T2 Zeiss prism with a 1.25" ClickLock EP (T2 part #08) -OR- the 2" prism with 2" ClickLock (splurging that is). The budget alternative would be to get the non-Zeiss T2 prism instead for the 1.25". Worth noting that I would like to get the Celestron f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector. This would be for future purposes of delving into EAA but of course I would use it visually as well (especially if choosing the T2 route). The reasoning for my alternatives: Go for the 2" Zeiss prism to theoretically get the best of the best in visual terms. I would make better use of the 46 mm baffle tube opening. Theoretically possible to combine with the R/C thanks to relative short light path (although not necessarily needed with 2" EPs). Downside of going to 2" accessories would be the cost, EPs, filters etc., on top of diagonal. Would not be able to spend all these costs at once. Cheaper route with T2 prism (especially the non-Zeiss), not only diagonal but also the other accessories. Cost of the R/C would be comparable to e.g. the 36 mm aspheric and give similar power and FOV with the 24 mm ES, i.e. the 24 mm would act as both. Extra plus is the ClickLock clamp for 1.25" with built in fine focusing not involving the mirror. Downside of knowing that not all light coming out of baffle tube is used. To get the wide FOV (24 mm + R/C) I'm adding glass to the optical train (theoretically not a good thing). I'm leaning towards the T2 as it would be a cheaper diagonal and for EPs I would only need the 24 mm and then the reducer instead of a 30-40 mm, so saving the expense of one EP. Then I would already have the reducer for continuing into EAA. The questions I hope the experts here can help with: The old reducer vs 2" diagonal question. With R/C and the 24 mm I can get roughly the same mag and FOV as e.g. the 36 mm Hyperion (technically 38 mm vs 36 mm and 68° vs 72°). Also reading good things about the ES 68° and with R/C the EP should behave the same. Am I missing something here? The logics say that the I would lose some contrast with the R/C (not using full opening + adding elements), correct? Possibly flatter fields though (not important now, hopefully the EP threads might tell soon enough). The Zeiss vs non-Zeiss T2? Big differences? I have read a few posts on this so most to get some updated views here (have read that Baader has changed some things over the years). Using the R/C (f/6.3) with these prisms. I know f/7 is mentioned as "the limit" but also remember BillP's test where he was happy down to f/6 with the prisms (in 2014 at least). Perhaps most important: have I missed some other obvious alternative here? Maybe I have forgotten some question here but perhaps for the best as I assume those who have gotten this far are tired of reading now. Thanks for getting here though!Thanks,Viktor
  4. I scrapped all the Oiii and Sii data I previously took during a full moon (about 15 hours worth) and retook it all when the moon was a bit smaller at 76%. Ha was taken during 98% and 67% moon. All the lights were taken on the following nights: 12th, 19th and 20th September 2019. Integration times, all in 600s subs unbinned: Ha = 28.33 hours Oiii= = 5.67 hours Sii = 5.67 hours The Ha data is really nice, and unsurprisingly the Oiii and Sii is not as strong (or nice). I'm missing that (vital) step in my processing routine of getting the Sii and Oiii properly stretched to match the Ha, before combining. I dont really know how to deal with the weaker data properly. Any pointers would be appreciated. What I do currently: All the data is loaded into APP into separate channels/sessions. The data is stacked and registered against the best Ha sub This produces individual stacks of Ha, Sii and Oiii that are all registered Each channel is processed with DPP in APP and then saved as a 16bit TIFF Each is opened in PS Stars removed with AA and any remnants removed and tidied up I then open a blank RGB document in PS I paste Ha into Green, Sii into Red and Oiii into Blue Adjust the selective colour settings to get 'Hubble palette' Adjust levels, curves, saturation until looks ok All the Ha Sii Oiii data is then combined together in a single 'super' stack in APP using quality weighted algorithm to create a 'luminance' That luminance layer is adjusted using levels, curves, and NC tools such as local contrast enhancement and deep space noise reduction (using masks to apply as required) The luminance is pasted onto the above colour layer, and incrementally added using gaussian blur Cropped and saved. Here it is anyway I haven't intended on any more exposure time for this one, but will consider it, if the expert opinion dictates otherwise! CS Adam
  5. Not many chances of Solar Imaging this year so far but caught this one. AR2741 from the 12th late afternoon AZEQ6-GT 152mm Technosky Refractor @ f5.9 135mm Baader D-ERF Daystar Quark Chromosphere + Eliminator PG IMX174 5862 Frames, 4Ms 30 second capture @ 195Fps 1024 x 768 Mono16 Best 45% Frames stacked in AS!3, ImPPG then tweaked in PS Atb
  6. Hey, For sale is Baader Rowe Coma Corrector (RCC I) in a perfect condition (used max. 2 times). £90 including delivery in EU. PP preferred. Thanks for looking!
  7. Hello Everyone, I have 7x 36mm Baader filters in my QHY Filter wheel. I use a simple Orion 80ED with a manual focuser. I have two questions basically. a) How important is refocusing between the LRGB Ha OIII and SII filters? b) If important, then how do I manually calculate the offset distance between them assuming the filters aren't parfocal?
  8. Rather than add this test to my original thread regarding the scope findings I started a new thread here to describe my findings and measurements using a Baader M56 Click-Lock. Unlike other SW ED Pro offerings, the focuser unit that is supplied with the new SW ED 150 has no provision for rotation during use. In addition, I noticed that despite there being a total of 142mm of travel in the draw tube, the majority of my EPs focus at the near end of travel and I was concerned there may be a lack of in-focus provision. I contacted @FLO and asked them for technical details of the Baader M56 Click-Lock particularly the loss of in-focus during use. (I have previously owned a similar device for use with a 9.25" SCT which adds ease of use, a rotation facility and superb security to all attachments). FLO very kindly reciprocated and provided one for testing. Here I present some results of that test. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2956256-m56-celestron-skywatcher.html Essentially, use of the Click-Lock with EPs (+/- a TV Powermate) results in a loss of 12.5mm of in-focus. For the EPs tested here that was not an issue. The stock SW focuser comes with a 2"adapter with two grip screws and a locking ring. Please note that removal of the locking ring when using the Click-Lock does not assist with reducing loss of in-focus since the Click-Lock internal flange sets before reaching the locking ring. You can see that my ES 14mm EP inserted into the 2X Powermate was the only combination that did not reach focus (it almost did but not quite). The 2X is a 2" Powermate and I had to use the 1.25" insert which adds about 8mm of depth. the Powermate also does not seat fully in my WO diagonal. I also tested two planetary cameras (+/- 2" TV Powermate) which focused well within the full range of the draw tube extension maximum which is 142mm. Use of the Click-Lock provides a very secure and flexible adaptation to the standard SW focuser adapter and most importantly allows easy rotation of diagonal and camera. For me, this is a must have accessory for this scope. Its easy to use with gloves too! Standard SW set up: Click-Lock set up: Addition of a 2.5X Powermate: Planetary camera and 2x Powermate set up: In addition I used the locking screw whilst observing the live star image of Alpheratz on screen through the Bhatinov mask. There was absolutely no change in the focus position as I tightened/loosened the locking screw. This last set up I also tested at near vertical (Deneb) and there was no slip at all in the focuser control. Action was firm and smooth throughout the length of the draw tube. For the original scope test go here:
  9. Hi SGL members! As I'm moving to 2" filters I wish to sell my 1.25" mounted filter setup. This setup consist of a kit of Baader LRGB as seen here for example: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p563_Baader-LRGB-CCD-Filtersatz-1-25----Interferenzfilter---4-Filter.html @268 Euros plus the piece de resistance, the Astrodon 3nm ones; Ha, SII, OIII. New they are 608 Euros a pop.... Example: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p5153_Astrodon-1-25--Narrowband-Filter-H-Alpha-3nm-mounted.html I will part with the LRGB set for £150 and the Astrodons for £450 each of £1200 for the lot of three. That is effectively most of the haggling done already. These filters rendered me six AAPODs in one year alone, and that was with mediocre OTAs and substandard processing skills... I can accept PayPal, UK or French, UK or European Bank transfer, I can ship from the UK or France, no problem as I tend to go back and fourth. Let's say £7.50 per filter shipping cost for insurance purposes. They will also be available for pickup in London shortly. The filters have never been cleaned or wiped. They have lived in Atik Filter wheels as long as I had them. Below: LRGB set to the left, Astrodons to the right. /Jesper PS There might be an ATIK EFW2 up for grabs too once these are gone ;-)
  10. With the 2 Baader filters , Continuum and Polarising , that brings the price of the Lunt Solar Wedge up to about £250 - is it worth it at this point of the Solar cycle ?
  11. I currently have a Baader MPCC (the original v1 - must be 11 years old at least...) - I use it for imaging, but at some point need to get a visual kit to use it with my longer fl eyepieces. (This is on my f4.5 Newtonian) Does anyone have any comparison between the original version and a v3? Is the newer version any better than the original? Interested if anyone has any experience of them both as to which is the better version? Thanks!
  12. I'm selling my 1.25" baader H-alpha 7nm filter. I purchased it on amazon several months ago, but have never actually used it, as my CCD didn't work. (Its just been put in a filter wheel but never used!) As such it is in perfect condition. Price £75 including delivery to a UK address. Payment via Paypal (buyer pays fees), Paypal friends, or bank transfer Any questions, please ask.
  13. Hi I'm selling my Baader 1.25" CCD RGB filters. They are used, but in excellent condition with no scratches or anything of the sort. Price £115 including delivery to a UK address. Payment via Paypal (buyer pays fees), Paypal friends, or bank transfer Any questions, please ask.
  14. Baader being more known to me, but Lunt seem more specialist. Which is better optically, and which has better heat tolerance for long sessions?
  15. This is described as: Baader Pan 3 "/ EQ Dual clamp 230mm (for Losmandy and Vixen-standard) Part number is #2451566 It is a very solid and well engineered Losmandy and Vixen Dual standard clamp, 230mm long. The clamping mechanism is very smooth and precise with non-marring brass clamps which provide a very good grip. The clamps can be tightened via an Allen key for additional security. This one is in basically very good condition, functionally excellent but with one or two small nicks here and there. Looking for £120 plus say £2.50 towards P&P via PayPal fees paid or bank transfer. Offering here first and then will put on ABS at the weekend. Thanks, Stu
  16. Hi guys, I'm looking to get a Baader mod to my Canon 6D as I would love to get some nice wide-field landscape images of Orion and the Milky Way etc. Any recommendations for an active service in the UK or nearby? Loads of websites about but not getting much in the way of responses. Thanks in advance.
  17. AlastairW

    Melotte 15

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    Melotte 15 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  18. AlastairW

    IC1805 Heart Nebula

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    IC1805 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  19. Unknown for me as eps. Which makes have best eye relief at any given fl. Being a Vixen fan, their 8-24 is on my radar, but are there others as easy?
  20. A table of Mount payload ratings and a spreadsheet for Baader Hyperion variations and your Scope & Barlow / PowerMate / Amplifier. Might be of use to a few =) Mount Payloads.xlsx Mount Payloads.csv Baader Hyperion Varsiations.xlsx Baader Hyperion Varsiations a.xls
  21. This listing is also on ABS but though I would add here too, need to shift it. Selling my Televue x2.5 Powermate which is in excellent condition with original box. Looking for £125 ono via PayPal fees paid or bank transfer. I have the T2 adaptor also available at £32, and a Baader clicklock adaptor BA2458100 for £40 will do the lot at £190. Cheers, Stu
  22. Another exotic optic. http://www.astroshop.eu/field-flatteners-other-photo-accessories/baader-2-t-2-fluorit-flatfield-converter-ffc-/p,10816?utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=10816&utm_campaign=1709&utm_source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgb3OBRDNARIsAOyZbxAKjjZlYvKiB5GsyMuyCfMTRvArBonbD0DZyXKDS39sttouCbQfPtcaAkDSEALw_wcB&utm_content= Which types of scopes are likely to benefit most from using this, and what types of views and objects? Any owners/users here?
  23. Hi All , Does anyone have one of these filters in their kit and , if so , how do you find them ? Would they perform better on a SW 130P rather than on a Meade 90mm `frac ?
  24. Hi, Am looking to replace my Ha filter, which had an accident and cracked. Anyone have one sitting around looking for a good home? Thanks Fakhri
  25. So I've just started in prime focus imaging. The images could do with magnification. I have the attachments to put the DSLR on the Baader Hyperion but have not really had much luck so far with getting decent images. I realise a barlow lens would probably suffice. All this kit is eating away my funds. So I was thinking, I have the extension tubes for the Hyperion. Could I take the end lens of the Hyperion attach it to the extension tubes to account for the increased focal length then attach it to the 2inch adapter which is already attached to the Camera? I guess the only way to know is to try, but I wondered if anyone else has had this idea or had tried this already. Also, :-) I'm thinking the next thing I need to purchase is a guide scope and guide camera. The newt scope I own is 1200 mm focal length and the guide scope I'm looking at is 328 mm so I'll end up with an imaging / guide ratio of about 3.5. With the increased focal length from the 2x barlow would that mean I will need to consider an even greater focal length guider or more expensive smaller pixel size guide camera? Thanks,
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