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Geys1987

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About Geys1987

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy
    Biotechnology
    Photography
  • Location
    Kapellen, Belgium
  1. I don't think that vignetting will be a big problem since planets are relatively small targets. I'm a bit more concerned about image degradation when stacking multiple barlows. You're introducing a couple of items (more optical surfaces, more possibilities for misalignment, ...). If planets are your main interest, why not invest in something like a 5x powermate?
  2. I think Orion Optics had a line of newton telescopes up to 12" that came with an optional Vixen Sphinx (perhaps someone else can give some more information). On CN there's a review of someone with a 10" newton on a Vixen Sphinx. Btw, I own a Vixen Sphinx and do some imaging with it. The latest firmware works great with an autoguider (I've got the QHY5). I had a problem with periodic DEC-movement a few months ago but it turned out that it wasn't the mount.
  3. My eyepiece collection is a mix of ortho's and 3 eyepieces with a wider FOV. When I'm observing DSO's I use the low power wide field first to get a good impression of the DSO and it's surroundings (and for identifying the field). Then I switch to ortho's to get every last detail out of it. This was the way I observed with my 12" dobson and how I observe today with the Megrez (when I get the chance ). For some reason I seem to see more with the ortho's then with any other eyepiece. Perhaps that the smaller FOV helps me to direct my attention to the DSO.
  4. That is really nice. Too bad it costs almost as much as my telescope .
  5. I'm probably going to buy the 6mm BGO. I have already the longer focal lengths and from there performance I think the 6mm will be a nice eyepiece, especially for getting the last photon out of my telescope into my eye. Keep in mind that the FOV will be small (around 40°) and eye relief will be short.
  6. I used to use the 8mm and 13mm in my 12" F/5 dob without a coma corrector. Never had big problems except that at the edges of the fov things became a little bit fuzzy. At the center everything was sharp and contrasty.
  7. I've mailed Foveon about their X3 3 * +14MP sensor 2 months ago and they shared this link with me. Google then gave me this pdf. It's not much but it's a start . EDIT: forgot to give you their exclusive dealer for scientific equipment => Alternative Vision.
  8. I hope everyone in western Europe can enjoy some very clear skies these days. Here's my result of last night. After gathering data on the Leo Triplet I moved the scope to M3. Nikon D90 William Optics Megrez 110 (+ lSkywatcher LPR and Skywatcher FF) Vixen Sphinx 129 x 30s (+ flats, bias and dark) ISO3200
  9. Here's a first comparison of the corrected field and a standard field with a WO Megrez 110 f/5.95. It is a very nice flattener that delivers a very good, flat image. Still, I think it can be a bit better if I could find a smaller T2 extension tube (7mm + some plastic spacers instead of the 7.5 I have now).
  10. Had to make the same decision some 4 years ago and went for the Nikon. Basically, it comes down to what you want to do with it. If you're sure that you'll only be using the dslr for astophotography I think a Canon would be the best choice since it can be modded easily (by yourself or someone else), is easier to control and there are a lot of people who can help you when there is a problem. If you want to do other things with it, go for the camera that helps you making good pictures (by having a good shape, weight, menu structure, button placement, ....).
  11. I've ordered the SW FF for my Megrez 110. I'll post some pictures as soon as I get it and have clear skies.
  12. You can correct it a bit in Photoshop by using a layer with just the information about the gradient. Copy your image in a new layer and apply dust&scratches to it. Then clone the remaining bright object away. Last step is to substract this layer and play a bit with the sliders until you have something that looks good for you. Here's my attempt with this technique. EDIT: you can see some banding in the image but I think it's the result of using a jpeg as starting image.
  13. I have added a 100% crop of the final picture. Unfortunately I can't get any closer for the moment. I'm in Ghent for my exams and the Megrez is in Antwerp
  14. This picture is one shot through an open window with a Nikkor 200mm f/4@f8 AI. 1/160, ISO400 and a Nikon D90. Post-processing involved curves, sharpening and cropping.
  15. Another way would be to eliminate it by the dust/scratches filter in photoshop. I've used it @ 31 pixels and cloned the nebula out of the blurred version. Then I've made it a layer and used difference.
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