EssexMigrant

It’s a pity that Eagle Creek Observatory link is mainly unusable now. What sub links that are working are very good, and if all the sub links worked it would be an excellent resource. 

Okay, I found them! They were in the zip file which I hadn’t undone! I copy them below  

AZ-GTi motor controller  firmware version 3.16:

Version 3.16

  Nov 5, 2018

    1. Fix a problem which might cause firmware update failing.

Version 3.14

  Sep 25, 2018

    1. Fix a problem that causes SSID "ESP_xxxxxx" broadcasted instead of "SynScan_xxxx", and mount not working with SynScan App.

Version 3.13

  July 20, 2018

    1. Change timer for defaulting WiFi to 1 hour

    2. Force to use AP only mode if the WiFi module cannot join a valid WiFi network in STA only or AP-STA mode.

Version 3.12

  Jun 22, 2018

  1. Fixed a bug that might cause intermittent UART communication error

Version 3.10

  Oct 17, 2017

  1. Fix a bug which prevents the build-in Wi-Fi module working in STA only mode.

  2. If the access point for the STA mode is not valid, turn on build-in Wi-Fi's access point automatically.

V03.07

1. Fix the may set out wrong response to hand controller due to TX buffer overwritten by ADC Data storing 

V03.06

1. Fix the known problems in version 3.05.

2. Reverse counting direction of azimuth auxiliary encoder.

V03.05

1. Modify code structure to support multiple mounts.

V03.03

1. Motor Encoder Hardware changed from 45 counts to 90 counts. The maximum accuracy is improved. 

2. Read back MC version : 3.3.A5

V03.02

1. Add function that turn off WiFi if there is no any WiFi traffic within 15 minutes after MiniAZ powered up

  If any WiFi traffic happen within that 15 minutes, the WiFi will be kept on unitl MiniAZ have been powered off.  

2. Restore WiFi manufactory setting if there is no any operation occured with f4 hours after MiniAZ powered up.

  The operation includes commands from Hand controller, App or WiFi AT command from App. After the manufactory restored,

  the WiFi will be kept on unitl MiniAZ have been powered off.

3. Add new LED indications. LED is solid lit while MiniAZ is power up but the WiFi is off. LED blinks once while MiniAZ is power up

   and WiFi is power up and wait for connecting. LED blinks twice while MiniAZ is power up and WiFi is connected. LED blinks three times

   while MiniAZ is in bootloader mode.

4. Read back MC version : 3.2.A5

V03.01 

add:

1. Add in Motor control command to read back WiFi Mac Address

2. Read back MC version : 3.1.A5

V03.00

add:

1. Read back MC version : 3.0.A5

Hi Peter

I’ve just read this thread and your reply, and am intrigued by you mentioning firmware release notes; I can’t find them anywhere! I know this thread is a bit old now, but if you, or anybody, can point me in the direction of these release notes I’d be a very happy boy!

Max

I appreciate the quick reply, thanks. I’ll just have to hope mine’s okay then!

On 13/10/2018 at 19:52, heliumstar said:

Anyone got the 102 Mak package? Can you please check if your scope has collimation screws at the back? Mine doesn't and it is out of collimation. Any ideas how to collimate it?

Hi

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I ask because I’ve just bought a second hand one and would be very interested to know. 

Cheers

Also found this. Have a look at the drawing in one of the included pics. In some ways this is similar to the Tasso Starguide 114 which I collimated a week or two back.  But with that there’s a central locking screw and three adjusting screws. Also there’s a correcting lens in the eyepiece tube. 

https://www.ebay.ph/itm/Mizar-CX150-Astronomical-Catadioptric-Telescope-D-153-mm-Fl-1310mm-/173661361395

Hi there

I see nobody has answered you yet, and I’m afraid I can’t help either, perhaps it’s because it’s such an uncommon scope.  It looks beautifully made. Have you found this link yet?

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/224896-a-very-rare-tasco-find-i-got-the-16t/

They'd need to be machined up out of a 4mm diameter piece of steel or brass. Overall length 15mm, with about 2mm either end machined down to 3mm, to let the pass through the sideplates.

A friendly machinist could easily bang these out.

Andy.

Hi Andy!

Nah, anybody could do this with a secured hand drill if they were careful, using a small file to turn down the ends. Agreed, they'd be simple to make on a lathe, and would be improved if instead of 'pressing' were drilled and tapped to take a securing screw. Obviously if you were using brass, it would be easier to do using the drill method.

I've got some some small brass pillars to make soon for my C8 dec drive housing, so I could possibly make one or two sets of gearbox 'pins' while I'm at it.

Cheers

Max

Hi all,

I've only just picded up this thread, and to be honest I've only just skimmed through it, so if what I'm about to say has already been said, ignore me.

Re the cog spinning on the shaft, surely that's a simple fix; drill a hole into the edge of the cog and into the shaft, then insert a steel pin of the right diameter (a broken drill?). A small amount of either resin, or super glue could ensure it doesn't come out. If there's a reason that this isn't a good idea, and I've missed it also, again ignore me.

Cheers

Max

My Celestar 8 Deluxe; black tube Fastar capable, is numbered 914611. I have a feeling I found this was made around '97, but as I bought it secondhand, I can't be sure about that. Another place that might be worth looking, or enquiring, is the Classic section of C/N. As stated above, Uncle Rod is the 'man' on these things. I've added my number below, and clarified the list.

Cheers

Max

This thread intrigued me one evening last May (2010), and I spent several evenings going through ads on a certain astronomy equipment site in the US, looking for C8 optical tube ads with photos that showed the serial number clearly on the front corrector (or for old orange tubes, on plate on the side of the fork mount base), and which gave information on the date the person had bought the scope, either new or used. Then using inference, and quite a bit of collected data from that site's ad photos, plus your several serial number data points in your table below, here is what I came up with.

Serial year

==========

004936 1973

176337 1977

219214 1975

339705 1975

800732 1975 - 1977 (C8 classic orangetube)

804081 1977

805507 1980 (C8 classic orangetube special coatings)

805630 1980 or later (C8 classic orangetube)

806633 1980 or later (C8 classic orangetube)

808735 1979 or later

810231 (C8 classic orangetube special coatings)

811294 (C8 classic orangetube)

811938 1981

815888 1982

822085 1983 - 1984 (est ?) (C8 classic orange tube)

825682 at least 1984 (C8 blacktube Starbright…at least 1984 since that's when Starbright came out)

827259 at least 1984 (C8 classic orangetube)

- (Celestron Super C8 on Vixen Superpolaris GEM was first sold in 1984)

- (Haley's Comet came in 1986…Celestron quality supposedly really dipped during Haley's comet craze from 1985 - 1987, until Alan Hale was brought back to turn Celestron quality around in 1988)

845210 1987 (C8 blacktube Starbright coatings)

847300 at least 1988 (SPC8 blacktube Starbright…ad claimed OTA was hand-selected by Alan Hale for ad photos)

- (had to be in or after 1988 since 1988 is when Celestron brought Alan Hale back to restore quality and company reputation)

850745 ???? (C8 classic with Starbright coatings…good optics)

858639 ???? (GP-C8) (older than 1991, newer than 1987)

877563 ???? (C8 blacktube no coatings) (immediately sold after buying, possibly bad optics (claimed "may need collimation"))

889700 1991 (Celestron Ultima C8 SCT blacktube)

914611 ???? (Celestron 8 Deluxe black tube possibly 97)

927520 2000 (C8 Fastar Starbright blacktube)

928504 2001 (C8 Nexstar 8 goldtube)

928774 ? (had to be 2001 or later, using S/N 928504 with firm new-scope purchase date above)

934042 2005 (C8 goldtube Starbright non-XLT)

935835 2004 (C8 blacktube C8-S goto Starbright non-XLT)

S12078 2009 (C8 Starbright XLT blacktube)

S12561 (C8 Nexstar 8SE blacktube Starbright XLT)

S14029 (CPC800 XLT)

S16480 2008 (C8 XLT blacktube)

S19669 2009 (C8 XLT blacktube)

For those who don't know, to read the list below position your cursor over the first word, then left click, and keeping the button depressed, drag downward. The words then become readable.

This thread intrigued me one evening last May (2010), and I spent several evenings going through ads on a certain astronomy equipment site in the US, looking for C8 optical tube ads with photos that showed the serial number clearly on the front corrector (or for old orange tubes, on plate on the side of the fork mount base), and which gave information on the date the person had bought the scope, either new or used. Then using inference, and quite a bit of collected data from that site's ad photos, plus your several serial number data points in your table below, here is what I came up with.

Serial year

==========

004936 1973

176337 1977

219214 1975

339705 1975

800732 1975 - 1977 (C8 classic orangetube)

804081 1977

805507 1980 (C8 classic orangetube special coatings)

805630 1980 or later (C8 classic orangetube)

806633 1980 or later (C8 classic orangetube)

808735 1979 or later

810231 (C8 classic orangetube special coatings)

811294 (C8 classic orangetube)

811938 1981

815888 1982

822085 1983 - 1984 (est ?) (C8 classic orange tube)

825682 at least 1984 (C8 blacktube Starbright…at least 1984 since that's when Starbright came out)

827259 at least 1984 (C8 classic orangetube)

- (Celestron Super C8 on Vixen Superpolaris GEM was first sold in 1984)

- (Haley's Comet came in 1986…Celestron quality supposedly really dipped during Haley's comet craze from 1985 - 1987, until Alan Hale was brought back to turn Celestron quality around in 1988)

845210 1987 (C8 blacktube Starbright coatings)

847300 at least 1988 (SPC8 blacktube Starbright…ad claimed OTA was hand-selected by Alan Hale for ad photos)

- (had to be in or after 1988 since 1988 is when Celestron brought Alan Hale back to restore quality and company reputation)

850745 ???? (C8 classic with Starbright coatings…good optics)

858639 ???? (GP-C8) (older than 1991, newer than 1987)

877563 ???? (C8 blacktube no coatings) (immediately sold after buying, possibly bad optics (claimed "may need collimation"))

889700 1991 (Celestron Ultima C8 SCT blacktube)

927520 2000 (C8 Fastar Starbright blacktube)

928504 2001 (C8 Nexstar 8 goldtube)

928774 ? (had to be 2001 or later, using S/N 928504 with firm new-scope purchase date above)

934042 2005 (C8 goldtube Starbright non-XLT)

935835 2004 (C8 blacktube C8-S goto Starbright non-XLT)

S12078 2009 (C8 Starbright XLT blacktube)

S12561 (C8 Nexstar 8SE blacktube Starbright XLT)

S14029 (CPC800 XLT)

S16480 2008 (C8 XLT blacktube)

S19669 2009 (C8 XLT blacktube)

Hi Andy!

Sorry for delay in replying. I know what you mean about the Carton, it's a cracking scope. My original objective pair weren't as good as I thought they should be, so I bought another pair from Sheldon; they're definitely better. But I have a new love in my life now, and a somewhat surprising one; a Prinz Astral 400, the earlier two tone blue with Towa optics. This is a 60x700 and is just superb! It produces stunning, absolutely perfect rings in extra and intra focus. It's quite frustrating in a way because I'd spent a fair bit of time upgrading another Prinz 330 that I thought was great; I'd flocked the inside and blacked everything, but this 400 is better without having done anything to it yet! I've just come in from using it for the first time on a Tasco goto mount; boy am I happy! I watched Io emerge from transit, with it's shadow on the edge of the SEB, while the 'lone' barge was sllightly offset on the NEB. The trapezium was clear as a bell tonight, and Theophilus, one of my favourite craters, was just superb. As you've probably guessed, seeing and transparency were both excellent.

Cheers

Max

Hi Andy!

Thanks for all of that! Yea, I'm not holding my breath, but if I could get another mounting 'part' it would be a great help.

Bye the way, do you know which model your Carton is? Pics of mine here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cartonscopeclub/photos/album/1784860766/pic/list

Cheers

Max

Hi Andy!

OK, just tried that; great! I also experimented with your suggestion of extending the eyepiece out, and as you say, more magnification. I was looking at Jupiter (interesting arrangement of moons at this minute, with Callisto being out of alignment below/above Ganymede) and could make out the two main bands, but nothing more. I think I must make a bigger effort to get my large lathe finished! What was the name of the bloke at Tal, to contact for parts? I can't remember where I saw the post.

Cheers

Max

Why didn't I think of that! Thanks Andy, I'll try that later. Busy at the moment designing a method of making simple and cheap mounting rings.

Thanks for the Siebert link

Be in touch

Max

Hi Andy!

I can sympathise on the set screw, but the head of mine on the 15mm fortunately didn't break until was out sufficiently to remove (the screw cut rusted). As you, I find the 25mm nice also; shame about the delamination, but if you want a challenge it is possible to separate the elements and reglue them!

Right, now comes the big question; how to get the big mag? If I'm understanding the manual correctly, it's spacer, barlow, eyepiece? I couldn't see how this could work, and it doesn't; what's the answer please?

Cheers

Max

Hi all,

OK, got the marigolds on and finally managed to unscrew it! It had been screwed on so tight that it had distorted the top! Anyway, the top pair have been removed, cleaned and replaced, and now the view is clear as a bell. I've done this to both of my 15mm's, as they were both virtually identical in terms of deposit. I would advise ANYBODY who has one of these eyepieces to do the same. The design makes it simple, assuming that the top comes off easier than mine! The top pair are bonded and black edged, and sit in a recess, so it's dead simple. Just remove, clean and replace, remembering that the flat side is out. I wish the .965" eyepieces I've had to clean had been this simple!

Cheers

Max

Brilliant Andy! Many thanks for taking the time to do that. Right, I'll have a go later to part this. I'm hoping that it's just a rubber glove job, I don't want to get into anything heavier. Anyway, I'll let you know.

Cheers

Max

p.s. I checked the two sets of rings nearest to this diameter tube, and neither is any good! C102 too small; AT90EDT much too big! You'd think it would be the other way round wouln't you?

I'll have a look at mine and get back to you.

Andy.

Appreciate that Andy; thanks!

Andy, have you ever taken one of the old 15mm eyepieces apart? I found the grub screw on the side, and guess it's for locking, but even when this is totally removed, I can't part the two components. Before I put pressure on it, I just wanted to be sure it screwed. The reason I want to do this, is because it's full of condensation that doesn't look as though it's going evaporate any time soon. And even if it does, it's going to leave some marking. As soon as I put it in tonight, I knew that something wasn't right, and as soon as I put it under my disecting microscope I could see a myriad of globules all over the inner surface of the outer eye lens.

Anyway, I spent some time getting the collimation right, working only with the secondary. It was clear immediately that somebody had played with this, and it was a MILE out! Tonight I hand held it out the window (it's too blumming windy to go out!) and looked at Jupiter. Firstly with the 25mm which seemed a bit 'flairy' but it's an odd design of optic, and depending on how you moved your eye, the image changed. I next tried the 15 which didn't have the problem, but of course being 'dewed up' with condensation wasn't a real test. Getting out another Tal 15mm I had to hand I tried that, but it clearly wasn't designed to be used in this scope, as there was nothing like enough it travel to focus. I'll try and get to my other Tal M optics tomorrow and try them.

Cheers

Max

yes yes yes

it would be nice to have the group re-opened to be honest

I will unhesitatingly second this!

Max

Woops, yes I/D.

Same eyepieces as mine. As mine, look to be a single simple coating. Not the later deep purple, multi coatings.

If you get the time, could you do me a favour and measure some sizes on the barlow and adapter. I'm thinking of getting a replacement barlow and adapter machined up. Ta.

Hi Andy!

OK, here are the measurement, going from left to right in your piccie. A=29.5mm B=34.5mm C=33mm.

Re the coating or lack of, I think you're right. I will note however that the coating on the exterior of the sighting lens is the deep purple.

More pics will follow, but maybe not today.

Cheers

Max

Another thing that's different on this one is the tube securing straps; they aren't hinged, and very weak. As a consequence they are broken and useless. I'll post a piccy later. I'm guessing they discovered this fault quickly and redesigned it. I'm hoping that some day I'll be able to pick up a replacement. I'm not sure at the moment whether or not I'm going to bodge the mount to make it useable, or just try and get hold of some rings and use on another mount.

Cheers

Max

p.s. I've just noticed the mounting straps are the same as the manual drawing.

Hi Andy!

Good extra info! Re am I only missing another metal push in cap; I don't know! What I THINK I might be missing, is yes, another push in, but also the mirror dust cover. I think the cap I have is supposed to be a top tube cap. Unfortunately it doesn't go on, because the tube is slightly distorted that end, and there was me thinking you couldn't do any damage if you ran a tank over them! It's very minor, but to correct it I'd have to remove the spider and secondary, and I don't want to do that, at least until I've checked the optics.

If you meant 32mm I/D helical focuser, yes, it did. I only got the mount, barlow (unmarked), 15mm and 25mm - pic below.

Cheers

Max

Hi Andy,

Well, I've got some new info for you then. There was only one plug-in type for mine; the one with the offset hole, and that's metal! It has three small plastic plugs in the rim, one of which is missing on mine. So maybe my metal plain cap is an original tube cap? The question then arises, is the cap a top or bottom tube cap?

Max