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Doc

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Everything posted by Doc

  1. After a bit of faffing around I mangaed to get the worm and wheel rotating in unison. There is still a little backlash in the gears but it's pretty good. Any ideas how to eliminate the backlash. I made a few videos for you to view, next step will be pulleys, belts and stepper motors.
  2. Yep one step ahead of you, the springs are in the post. Thanks for your comments Rusted.
  3. Spent the day in the workshop again and this time built myself a dovetail clamp for the Fullerscope. It's 250mm long and 125mm wide and has three large thumbscrews to tighten the clamp up, the telescope ain't going anywhere.
  4. Clave done different sizes to the rest they were: 27mm, 1 1/4", 50mm and a 2". I don't think they never had a 0.965" size eyepiece. As for FOV eyepieces from 3mm to 45mm had a FOV of 48°. 55mm had a FOV of 42°. 65mm had a FOV of 37°. And the large 75mm had a FOV of 32°.
  5. I used to love my green eyepieces and had a complete set of Delos and a few Naglers and then I discovered Clave of Paris eyepieces and even though they only have a FOV of 48° I just loved them, they were sharper, and showed more detail, and were comfortable as all my viewing is done in the centre. If you love the Huygens just wait to you try the ortho's they are sharper still. They are on my list to collect as well.
  6. 99% of the public don't even look at the nightsky so wouldn't care one bit if it was full of satalites. When all 12,000 or even 42,000 which is the ultimate goal are in orbit that will be the end of astronomy.
  7. Another day in the workshop. I designed and built an adjuster to adjust the azimuth axis on my Fullerscope mount. It works really well and has about 10° of adjustment for polar alignment. The last video shows the altitude adjuster which has about 9° of adjustment. For some reason only works on full screen.
  8. Made a latitude adjuster today. It consists of two clevis yokes which I made in the milling machine. The next part is a left handed and a right handed M10 threaded bar with a 6mm hole in the end for the clevis pin. The middle part is an hexagon bar with a M10 left hand thread in one end and a M10 right handed thread in the other. The way it works is you screw in for the mount to raise and unscrew for it to lower. I have about a 9° latitude adjustment. It was quite hard to do as there was not a lot of room between the polar shaft body and the adapter plates but it was fun project, and it works very well.
  9. Simply stunning the best Venus photo I have ever seen.
  10. I've always had an interest in astronomy since I was a child but it became a passion after comet Hale Bopp. I bought my first proper telescope soon afterwards an Hardin 8" dob.
  11. You can see M81/82 with 10x50 bins I have seen them on numerous times, you can also see M101, M33 and heaps more. As you say take them to darker skies and you will see so much more.
  12. While I do agree that AMICI are great for daytime use I do think they have a place for night time viewing as well. I have the APM AMICI diagonal and it's pretty awesome at night. it does have the light defect on very bright objects but it's not off putting. The best thing is the ease of star hopping as it's the correct way up, I like them a lot and think it's a good purchase.
  13. 15.4.2020 Observing from back garden in Nottingham Warm No wind Clave 80/1208 F15 refractor mounted on my DocMount Selection of Clave eyepieces Started observing as it got dark about 21.00 Wasat (Delta Gem) - 3.5/8.18 mags - AB 5.4" Sep - Was a very easy split using the 10mm Clave at x121, secondary is very dim and very small and the seperation seems larger then stated. Al Kirkab (Kappa Gem) - 3.56/10.00 mags - AB 7.2" Sep - The companion at mag 10 seemed to be at the maximum of my scope. I only saw a glimpse of B once, it was incredibly small, best view was with the 10mm Clave at x121. 38 Gem - 4.7/7.8 mags - AB 7.3" Sep - Very easy double to split, there is a clear difference in the brightness. The main star appeared white and the secondary appeared orange. Best seen in the 12mm Clave at x101. Algieba (Gamma Leo) - 2.23/3.64 mags - AB 4.7" Sep - This was easy in all eyepieces, it's a stunner and appeared Yellow and white. I star hopped over to Cancer as hardly any of it's main stars were visible and had a lovely view of M67. Then onto the Beehive Cluster in the same concellation. This was also fantastic and the cluster looked great in either the 40mm Clave at x30 giving a FOV of 1.6° and the 55mm Clave at x22 with a FOV of 1.90° Back onto the double stars with Iota Cancer - 4.01/5.99 mags - AB 30" sep - This is a striking pair of binary stars, they appeared yellow and blue and almost the same magnitude, Best seen in the 10mm Clave at x121. Izar (Epsilon Bootes) - 2.5/4.81 mags - AB 2.9" sep - Quite a hard star to split, I could see an elongation with the 12mm Clave at x101 but I could only split this by using a 6mm Clave giving a magnification of x201. I couldn't see any colour in the stars. Over to Coma Benerices and the globular cluster M53, had great vies of this beauty which is 13 arc minutes in size and shines at mag 7.91. Best view was with the Clave 16mm giving a magnification of x76. Over to Canes Venacti and the wonderful Cor Coroli - 2.89/5.52 mags - AB 19.3" sep - A massive difference in brightness, this was great in any eyepiece, appeared yellow and white. Had a break ad looked at Venus for about 20 minutes. It's phase which was at 37% really stood out, it was a wonderful sight and I feel so lucky to have witnessed it. Castor (Alpha Gem) - 1.58/2.97 mags - AB 5.1" Sep - A clear split using the 12mm Clave at x101, both appeared white in colour, I could also see two other stars mags 9 and 10 respectively these were some distance away from AB. Propus (Eta Gemini) - 3.3/6.15 mags - 1.6" sep - Coud only manage a elongated figure "8" split with my 4mm Clave at x302. The main star appeared slightly orange in colour. Over to Auriga for the carbon star UU Auriga this is a very bright orange carbon star which is 1110 light years from Earth, it shines about mag 5.3. Within the same FOV are the doubles STF 928 and 929 and also the double STT147. STF928 (Auriga) - 7.3/8.6 mags - AB 3.5" sep - Very easy split using the 8mm Clave at x151, the main star had a hint of orange. STF929 (Auriga) - 7.23/8.43 mags - 5.9" sep - Easy split with a slight orange tint to the main star, best in the 12mm Clave at x101. STT147 (Auriga) - 6.8/8.7/9.8 mags - AB 42.7", AC 44.5" seps - Makes a lovely looking triangle, all components appear the same magnitude, no colour seen. There is a close star associated with component C but this is at 0.5" seperation so unseen by me. Best viewed in the 12mm Clave at x101 Errai (Gamma Cephi) - 3.2/7.3 mags - AB 1.8" sep - Very hard split, I only managed a slight bulge in the diffraction ring with the 6mm Clave at x201 Alfirk (Beta Cephi) - 3.23/8.63 mags - AB 14.1" sep - Easy to split for some reason I didn't write any information down for this double star. Tyl (Epsilon Draconis) - 3.83/6.87 mags - AB 3.2" sep - Very hard to split but with perseverance I managed a split showing a black gap between the stars with my 6mm Clave at x201. Both stars appeared white. Finished the night in Hercules looking at the globular clusters. Both M13 and M92 appeared bright but for some reason M92 had a brighter core and in fact looked better the M13 which is rather strange. Finished the observing session around midnight.
  14. Spent a few hours today raising the height of the Fullerscope mount so the polar axis casing clears the adapter plates. A lump of ash wood 65mm thick was used. There is now enough room between the casing and plates to design a turnbuckle to raise and lower the polar axis to enable polar alignment. The last one is a video.
  15. Hi David welcome to SGL. Just in case you are not aware there is an astronomy forum based in Nottingham that you can join it's called East midlands Stargazers just click on the lik below. https://www.eastmidlandsstargazers.org.uk/ I wouldn't clean it yet, what I would do is have an observing night and see if it warrents cleaning. Just having a few dust particles doesn't sound to bad too me. If you do go down the cleaning route, remove the fan if it has one and clean the mirror while attached to the cell.
  16. Watched the last episode today, I loved every moment of it, one of the best Star Trek's I've seen. Cannot wait for series two.
  17. The magnet still sticks on the shaft so my guess is Chromium plated steel. I'm sure magnets don't stick to Stainless.
  18. I have been thinking about what you said Rusted and went into the shed to set up an experiment. As you can see from the photo's below. I first tried a 45mm lump of wood and then set the PA to 53° which is the correct latitude for nottingham and the gap between the casting and the adapter is about 10mm. I then included another piece of wood to make the height 60mm and this gave me a gap of 22mm. So in essence any lump of aluminium between 40mm and 60mm will do. Where would you connect the adjuster, I see you have connected yours around the circumference of the end of the PA casing, but thats a little close for mine to the adapter plates. Anyway time to mull this over.
  19. I have thought about this already Rusted and I have to either take a slice out of the back off the adapter to match the base of the fullerscope mount that will give me the clearence or cut a reccess into the adapter plate so the mount body fits between the adapter plates, similar to what you have done in the second photo. I don't really want to add another big lump of metal, it's going to look a bit over the top. Then I need to come up with something like your turnbuckle design to fine adjust it. The bottom of yours is attached to your pier, I don't have that luxury, where can I attach it to? The planet tripod is very good indeed easily holds the weight of the Fullerscope and my other handmade mounts. Thanks for your input.
  20. Hi Ed, Yes it was from Kevin in Danbury, a very nice gentleman indeed had a great chat with him.
  21. Stu can I ask you where you got your slow motion control cables from? Thanks
  22. Spent a little time in the workshop today. Last year I purchased two 11" diameter aluminium blanks for another project that I didn't get round to so I used these to make an adapter to join the Fullerscope to the Barlebach tripod. I wanted to incorporates an azimuth adjustment slot that gives the operator about 20 degrees of adjustment for polar aligning so after a few minutes of head scratching I came up with this. They are a little large in diameter but I don't have anyway to make them smaller, they are way to big for my lathe. One day I must get a dividing head or rotary table but drilling and filing the slots kept me fit. The next job is to sort some adjustment in altitude, better start scratching my head again.
  23. Get a centre punch and gently tap the broken screw around till it comes out, worth a try.
  24. Many thanks Rusted for your contribution to this thread. I must say your blog is a wonderful read and packed full of information regarding Fullerscopes, you must be proud. Regarding the RA and Dec axis shafts, I placed a magnet on them and it stuck very well so I would say they are steel and not stainless steel but i could be wrong.
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