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Everything posted by Doc

  1. I had this issue a few years back and I put the eyepiece in an airtight bag containing uncooked rice and placed it in an airing cupboard for a few nights, it took the condensation away .
  2. There is also the rarity factor of some brands. Just look at Clave and Zeiss, prices are very expensive as demand outstrips supply, both companies have a very loyal fan base who are willing to pay top prices. Some of the older vintage glass is fantastic and collectors are willing to pay for it.
  3. What a great project you have there. Hope everything works out the way you want.
  4. I have decided to add manual setting circles to my DocMount and RocketMount. This thread is about the DIY dials I'm adding to the DocMount which is a DM6 clone. I've added a few photos as they describe the process better then words. This dial is then machined to fit around the UHWPE bearings. Once fitted it looks like this. A = The pointer which will be scribed this does not move and is fixed. B = This dial moves 360° and will be scribed 0° to 360° C = This is a locking screw once tightened it will lock B to the plate connected to the dovetail Finished article Now the maths: Setting circle dial is 132mm in diameter. So Pi (3.141) x D 3.141 x 132 = 414.612 414.612 divided by 360° = 1.151 So am I correct in saying there is a gap of 1.151 between each division. Is this a division in degrees or millimetres? Also does anyone know a UK company that can laser print, or laser engrave degree circles so it looks similar to this TIA
  5. I have been restoring my Fullerscope IV for a while now and have totally striped it down and added new motors, I just need to add a control board now to drive it. In my opinion it's a bit agricultural compared to the newer mounts, it takes a long time to set up the worm to wormwheel backlash adjustment, but on the other hand it does feel solid and takes a lot of weight. Here is a video of mine.
  6. The more glass you add to your light path the more the image degrades. Personally I don't use barlows at all, in my experience I would get as many eyepieces as I can to plug all the magnifications I think I will need.
  7. That's a cracking observation session Stu. I'm really pleased members are still using my Lunar 100 list and observation reports. It seems like a lifetime ago I wrote those up.
  8. Well I used to have a complete set of Televue Delos and a 31mm Nagler and I actually prefer the Clave's. They do have a few shortcomings such as fov and eye relief but then they are sharper on axis and show more colour. Most of my viewing is in the centre as I'm always nudging my scope.
  9. I've collected these over a few years. Mine are from various private buyers a few from France and one from Italy. They are rare and very hard to find. You can see the 8mm, 10mm and 12mm are side marked so they are 1 of 150 made with side markings. I still have the 3mm, 5mm, 35mm, 45mm, 65mm, and 75mm to find then I've completed the whole set. I'll 80 years old before I finish it at this rate. And yes it's the Sky Atlas 2000 but not sure of the date.
  10. I use my RocketMount most of the time.
  11. My favourite eyepiece is my 30mm Clave. It's pretty impressive.
  12. When I used to own a 16" Lightbridge I often tried to find this group. It was right on the edge of what I could see in the lightbridge so if I was successful I knew it was a good night. I could split the group into three but it was tough and normally just a smudge until you spent a long time just staring at it and then on those fleeting seconds of good seeing you could split them, it was challenging to say the least.
  13. Love it thats one gorgeous telescope. Can't believe how neat everything looks.
  14. I use Baader wonder fluid on lenses and Isopropyl alcohol on mirrors.
  15. My 16" Meade lightbridge Dob
  16. Thanks Roy. And I agree it looks so much better this way.
  17. Yes Mark it's the following paint. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VHT-BLACK-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT-SP201/251713042331?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
  18. Done some more to the Fullerscope mount last week. I tried to blend the old paint with the new paint and to be honest it was a difficult job. In the end I mainly just painted most of the mount, to get a good finish on wrinkle paint I found you had to warm up the mount with a heat gun first and then apply two heavy coats. Then gently warm the paint until it cures and leaves a wrinkle finish. I replace the wood riser with metal columns as the wood began to bow. All that is left is a polar bracket/scope which I have designed but needs building and to get a control box to run the motors from via CduC. The mount is rock steady with the 120ED Esprit on board there is no dampning down time at all. Here is some photos.
  19. I used to clean my 16" Meade mirror with warm soapy water and rinsed of with isopropyl and it was always OK.
  20. The file solution is good how about a flap wheel in a drill as well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABRASIVE-FLAP-WHEEL-SANDING-SETS-60-80mm-DIAMETER-Drill-6mm-Shank-GRIT-40-80/192197827380?epid=1805410993&hash=item2cbfe21b34:g:UcwAAOSwX61ZAbaU
  21. I have plans to build a 6" F15 refractor to go on my Fullerscope IV Mount I'm restoring and adding Go-To . I would love to find a Clave 6" lens to go with the 80mm I have but I have more chance off going to the moon. So my next choice will be a Jeager 6" lens or one of those iStar Optical 150mm F15 lenses. This will be a big project for the future.
  22. What I would do is tap the top out and then find someone near you with a large enough lathe to machine the hole to the required diameter, and then tap the top back in.
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