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Everything posted by 12dstring

  1. It's just the white balance. You'll see in the top right, where the bayer filter is still there that one in four pixels is much darker, this is the blue one (darker due to sensitivity and the spectrum of light in the room). When it comes to converting the raw image to colour it will boost the blue pixels to balance the colour. Where the bayer filter has been removed, all pixels will be equal in brightness, but during the colour conversion it still thinks one of them has been filtered blue, and boosts the blue accordingly.
  2. I've started on 350D sensor #2, after practicing with the first one. I've swapped the metal dental pick for a scraping tool carved from the plastic end of a paintbrush. The plastic won't scratch through the layer beneath the filter like the metal can do, but does an adequate job of scraping off the filter. The first pic is a flat(ish) field. The darker area is the top layer removed, you can see again that sensitivity takes quite a hit with the loss of the microlenses. The blueish area is with the filter layer removed. The second is a crop of some text. The original with bayer filter on the rig
  3. I was pondering whether to put the glass cover back on. Any bit of glass is going to lose you around 5%, and having no glass in the image train at all would be good for Venus images as you'd get more UV reaching the sensor. I suppose the shutter will be closed when the camera is off the telescope so the sensor will be fairly protected without the glass. Not a DSLR I know, but here's some interim test results with an SPC900NC. In between the original section and where the filter's been removed you can see a dark patch where just the top microlens layer has gone. You can see it decreases the sen
  4. I think this sensor has had it I'm having no luck reattaching the gold wires. Apart from that the actual filter removal is going well. I think the potential advantages are worth having a go with another sensor, so I'll open a new one up tomorrow (with extra care this time). More 350Ds than sense...
  5. Just had a go with an ICX098BQ from an SPC900NC, I couldn't tell the difference between them, the layers seem almost identical and are removed as easily by scraping (no solvents). Didn't even think it had microlenses
  6. I've got it under a microscope now, definitely two of the gold wires no longer connected due to the broken glass, so will attempt to reconnect with some silver glue at some point and try and bring it back to life. In the meantime I've been plating with surgically removing the bayer filter. I tried a few solvents; IPA, acetone and xylene had no effect at all. I don't think this is the way to go here in any case. I did some probing with the rounded edge of a dental pick. There's several distinct layers, the top one is the microlenses (visible on the left in the image below). This is very soft an
  7. Do you think they'd notice?
  8. Prime focus is attaching the camera directly to the telescope focuser with a t-ring (no eyepiece or camera lens), so that the telescope becomes the lens of the camera. This is the usual way of imaging with a DSLR. Afocal is where the camera has a normal lens attached, and the lens is attached to the telescope eyepiece. Eyepiece projection is where there is no lens on the camera, instead it is attached directly onto the telescope eyepiece. To do this you'll need one of these adapters to attached your t-ring to the Hyperion eyepiece. This will be like having a barlow lens and will give higher ma
  9. Or... what you can take off and still use it for astrophotography. Following on from my cooling and amp-off adventures, and inspired by this hypermod of the 450D, I thought it was about time my 350D lost some unnecessary weight. After all, it would be sealed up in a box and I never intend to use it for normal photography again. So I set out pulling bits out and seeing if it still works: All green-numbered ribbon cables are needed, things attached the red ones can be removed. 1 + 6) CMOS (needed - although will not cause errors if removed, just a black image) 2) Autofocus sensor (removable) 3)
  10. It's hidden under Barlow/FR, click Other and entering 0.63. I'm working on a new version which is hopefully a little easier to use. Yes 24.1 is the horizontal one, assuming a landscape image orientation.
  11. Shamelessly using my own calculator: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fov.htm I get a result of 24.1' x 18.0' for your setup
  12. The semi-Apo filter actually works by filtering out the violet fringes around stars caused by achromatic lenses, in the same way the Baader fringe-killer does. There's so more info here: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/achromat-semi-apo-filters/baader-semi-apo-filter.html It does mention the semi-Apo has a Neodymium substrate, so it's possible it's pretty similar to the Neodymium+fringe-killer, although the quote on there suggests the semi-Apo has less colour-shift and better CA reduction.
  13. Thanks Gina, and testing first was a good idea. I popped it back in and got the dreaded err 99 after taking a picture. This didn't happen with the sensor unplugged (which I know just gives a black image, but no errors). Taking the sensor out and inspecting closely I think one (maybe two) of the gold wires aren't quite connected any longer. I'll check with the microscope next week. It's not the end though, I've soldered smaller things...
  14. This looks like fun I have a water damaged 350D I bought a while back for spares, the main board is toast but the sensor worked fine... so it's now volunteered itself to science. The cover glass didn't want to come off nicely in one piece, but got it all of eventually whilst holding it upside to avoid any tiny bits of glass falling on the sensor. I'll have a play with it under a microscope next week, and see if any solvents have any effect before attempting to polish it off.
  15. Welcome to the forum Frisky That's Venus below the moon. Mars will be further round to the North, higher up in the sky, and will look orange/red. The moon will be moving closer to Mars over the next few days, and will be closest on 1st May.
  16. Ouch I guess in that case maybe the best way would be if you had a little prism stuck on one sensor, and mounted the board at 90 degrees to the other, like an OAG. You'd need some way to fine tune the focus position of the second board but it should stay pretty compact.
  17. Have you got any pics? There's no fundamental problems with relocating CMOS sensors that I know of. The CCD on the SPC900NC is a pain to remove from the board. I've also had problems before with diagonal banding on images after extending the leads to the CCD, so went with individual shielded cables this time, no sign of any now but I've yet to add the LX/amp-off/bias circuitry..
  18. I've been working on a similar idea, having two webcams in one case. One has the stock ICX098BQ for colour imaging, the other an ICX618ALA for B&W with higher resolution/sensitivity. You can then guide with one and image with the other, then move a little in RA and vice versa. You'll need to physically mount the CCDs next to each other, otherwise two SPC900NCs will barely fit within a 2" diameter circle. It doesn't matter if the guiding chip is completely off-axis (as with OAGs and SBIG's self-guiding cameras), but you'll want the imaging chip right in the centre.
  19. That setup will allow you to autoguide the mount, but you won't have any GOTO capabilities. Those motors are only for tracking and slow movements. You'll need the Synscan motor upgrade kit if you want to use EQMOD and be able to point the telescope with a computer.
  20. Have you got a link to the motor upgrade? If it's the same as the Synscan kit but without the hand controller then you should be fine.
  21. That modification only adds autoguiding capabilities. To work with EQMOD you'll first need the Synscan upgrade: First Light Optics - SynScan PRO GOTO Version 3 Upgrade Kit for EQ5
  22. This imaged last night, and blinked with an identical image taken on 18/12/2011: The flare in the bottom left is due to Mars, which is currently about 1 degree away. 15 mins total - LX200 16" and SBIG STL-6303 Measured as visual magnitude 13.3
  23. Not last night's one (albeit similar by the sounds of reports), this picture is of a fireball seen over the Netherlands in 2009: Netherlands fireball - The Planetary Society Blog | The Planetary Society If anyone can recall the approx. start and end position of their sighting, it'd be great if you could submit a fireball report to the IMO Fireball Report Form | International Meteor Organization or SPA Society for Popular Astronomy -MeteorSectionMaking and Reporting Fireball Observations ..etc so that data can be collated and a trajectory possibly calculated. Sadly missed it myself, was outside
  24. The short answer is.. yes. As it happens I'm currently writing a Mars and Jupiter view simulator for my website. The problem with Jupiter is that we're looking at clouds, and clouds move. In particular the Great Red Spot is currently moving around at around 8 degrees a year, but sometimes goes backwards. In contrast Mars is nice rocky body, the main features don't change (as mentioned there are dust storms which obscure features, and the ice caps shrink and grow), but the actual position of the surface features are simple to calculate. Here's a comparison: Left is an image taken last Sunday,
  25. Was just going to post.. you beat me to it. Yes, the HA is in hours, not degrees. Changing cell B9 to '=C6*15' sorts it out.
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