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Everything posted by Jannis

  1. I remember this was one of my first and favorite targets in the night sky, and I still come back to it every now and then. The progress over the years have been rather huge, and so of course I had to come back after I modded my Canon 550D to see how it turned out - and the difference was quite huge! Unfortunately the L data only cover the inner part of M51 so the rest of the image is not nearly as sharp, but I'm still very happy with it. L data is 5.5 hours using the Polemaster (QHY5L-II-M/ASI120MM sensor), and RGB data is 10h 50m with the Canon 550D - both on the Explorer 200.
  2. Can't remember seeing this one being captured too often. Nice capture!
  3. Very nice capture of M51 during a full moon! I like your first version better as it have better (in my eyes) colors and contrast, but they're both nice
  4. That's only 10.5 min exposure? Wow, i think i really need a camera upgrade soon... Really nice capture and processing.
  5. That sounds great, glad you sorted it out! Isn't the Optolong L-enHance a dual narrowband filter? I would think it killed most colors in general. The Optolong L-Pro filter seems to let trough much more light, and also a lot more of the yellow light then my CLS filter, so I can't wait to see your results!
  6. It looks like a flat frame issue to me. How do you take your flat frames? I've had issues trying to take flats in daylight before due to light leaks in the telescope/focuser, as well as trough the viewfinder (before i knew i had to block that off). These days i simply take flat frames pointing up in the sky a bit before the sun comes up, or after it goes down and it have worked so far.
  7. There is usually only 2 reasons for DSS to not detect stars. Either the star detection threshold slider is set incorrectly, or the stars are out of focus. If DSS suddenly detects 1000+ stars, the threshold is set too low and it\s only detecting noise. Aim for 30-300 stars, depending on the target. If you upload a frame (full resolution) we will usually be able to instantly tell what\s wrong and what settings are needed (if out of focus is the issue, there is no good solution, but resizing all the frames 50% for example can solve the issue).
  8. That's a really nice picture, and i love all the faint dust clouds that shows up all over.
  9. Thank you for all the great feedback! Gerr, I don't think i did anything special to get the flame color. Basically just aligned color channels and stretched in Photoshop with curves and levels until color balance looked OK. Your modded 650D should give similar colors. However, that's also one of the reasons i decided to avoid using the CLS filter unless it's really really needed, because it kills so much of the yellow colors. If you're using a light pollution filter, that might be why you're struggling with the colors. This is a single frame with no processing other then a quick aligning the color channels and stretching it strongly to see the colors. It looks quite similar to the end result i think?
  10. I finally modded my 550D last week, so this is also my "new first light" with it. 78x 180s exposures at ISO 800, and i mixed in some Ha from a stack of 16x 600s at ISO 1600. Captured with the Explorer 200. Was struggling a bit with light pollution, but didn't feel it was bad enough to throw in the CLS filter, and i think it turned out quite OK after all.
  11. That's a stunning picture! Did you use RGB or narrowband? How much exposure did you capture to be able to pull out all the faint stuff that well?
  12. Jannis


    Thank you for the feedback. :) I agree it's a bit too dark background, i'll try to aim for ~30 next time. :)
  13. Jannis


    About 7 years since my last attempt at this target with the telescope, so just had to give it another go here the other day. The moon was at around 55%, so probably not ideal, but not enough clear nights to be picky on it i guess. 28x 300s exposures at ISO800 with the Canon 550D and explorer 200.
  14. That's a really really nice picture! May i ask, why only 30 sec subs?
  15. Thanks guys! Dave, if you get enough 30s exposures on the Fuji S100FS it might give some good results i think, at least on brighter targets like M45, M42, M31.
  16. So i gave M45 a go on my EQ1 mount modified with tracking, and an old Canon G9 compact camera from 2007. Camera was limited to 15 sec exposures and auto-dark-frame, but with a modified firmware i could set an interval-meter to run 64 sec exposures with auto-dark-frame disabled. It was quite cloudy, and the tracking wasn't the best, but i managed to get around an hour of data at ISO400 and F4.8 (wide open at full zoom). There is some serious amp-glow on the sensor, and darks unfortunately wasn't able to remove it all, but still i think it turned out quite OK for a 13 year old compact camera and mount that never intended for astro-photography what so ever. 60x 64s exposures at ISO 400, 44,4mm F/4.8 79x dark frames Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop
  17. Is that the stacked image, or a single frame? If it's the stacked image, what stacking method are you using? I'd suggest trying kappa-sigma-clipping stacking mode and see how that turns out if you're not already using it. That should also remove satellite trails, which it looks like you have a couple of? Edit: More info on different stacking methods: http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/technical.htm#stackingmethods
  18. Really nice images, and amazing you can get that much detail from only 10s subs!
  19. Thanks! :) I plan to add more data to it when able, but adding data to it for the rest of the season probably won't be an option. I'm also not sure how well it would work to add "moonless" data to an image like this where the moon was right over the target and lit up quite bright?
  20. Thank you for the feedback Olly! I have started to also prefer a bit of noise instead of washed out details. I compared the before and after, and i didn't see much lost details compared to before NR though, so maybe i did a mistake somewhere during processing. I will try a reprocess and see if i can make it better. It might also be that 2x drizzle stacking with only 13 low res frames was a bit optimistic, so i will try again with no drizzle and see how it compares. I will also try to be more gentle with the NR next time.
  21. After being sick for what feels like an eternity, followed by two weeks of clouds and wind, i simply could not just let this night go as it was said to be yet another week or two with clouds on the way. With my main scope not quite ready for use yet, i quickly hooked up the QHY5L-II-M to a canon 50mm lens, attached a 7nm Ha filter, and started looking for a decent target. I didn't need to look long before i saw Orion, and then it was set! As the moon is currently 78% lit i must admit i was a bit worried, but i think the end result turned out OK, especially considering the relatively little data of just about 1 hour. Exposure is 13x 300s (and 35x 30s for the core of M42) with the QHY5L-II at gain 12. The lens is a Canon 50mm F/1.4@F/2.8 Darks applied to 300s exposures, but no flats or offset. Stacked in DSS, processed in PS and cropped to 16*9 size.
  22. Gave this target a go over the last few clear nights with the QHY5L-II Mono and a 50mm lens (stepped down to F/2.8) for a wide field of view. No guiding as this this is usually my guide cam, but at only 50mm there was no problem with tracking at 300 sec, and only minor issues at 600 sec. Ha was quite bright in the 300 sec exposures, but OIII was much more faint then I had thought and barely showed up in the 600 sec exposures. After some hours of OIII it started showing up though. Although low res, I think it turned out quite ok. Ha: 37x 300s + 28 dark OIII: 27x 600s + 72 dark Total exposure: ~7.5 hours Alternative version with increased colors, but maybe it's a bit too much..?
  23. You need a C-mount to 1.25" adapter, something like this should work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/C-Mount-to-1-25-Video-Camera-Barrel-Ring-Adapter-for-Astronomy-Telescope-CO/202366475568?hash=item2f1dfb5d30:g:QbEAAOSwCGVX5KLr Unscrew the cover, unscrew the lens, attach the adapter and you're ready to go. For sensor protection i also recommend a filter of some sort. UV/IR for refractors, while clear glass should be fine for reflectors. If PHD can't connect to camera ("QHY not found"), it's probably because you use a driver that's too new. Try installing v. 1.44 and see if it detects camera. I've shared the old driver here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ilmsot3rgeg99bn/AADv7oR0W4oVmLq0NfWtENs0a?dl=0
  24. If you're sure you sorted the list by time and not score, and it's decreasing steadily, then i guess it's possible that the dew formed slowly. It's also possible that moonlight/light pollution gradually caused more and more problems, but with that large difference (300 va 100 stars) it's less likely. Personally i like to keep all frames except those that stand out as much worse then the average, but in your case where DSS don't show a sudden change in the score that's not so simple to determine. I usually filter out those with significantly less stars detected, significantly higher sky background %, and significantly higher FWHM - then stack the rest. In your case I would probably just quickly look trough the pictures and see if you can visually see any sudden changes. I would probably only keep the 105x 60s exposures (and maybe the 5x 120s, stacked in a separate group in DSS) and discard the other 30/22/10//9/4/3/2 exposures.
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