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patraip1

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    astronomy observing mostly and starting to image, cars, basketball, tennis, science, medicine
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    Patra Greece

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  1. the sculptor galaxy 43 subs 15 sec iso400, flats, bias DSS, ST, Snapseed the coccon nebula 264 subs 15 sec iso400, flats, bias DSS, ST, Snapseed
  2. ok here goes my setup I have a Nikon D5500. I bought it 2nd hand. I tried to find a dslr with as little weight as possible and the D5500 has an awesome sensor for AP!!! Extremely low noise and isoless. The only negative it has is that it does not capture red Ha very well. I removed the camera stock lens and have attached these two items on the camera body I simply then slip the camera with the T adapter into the focuser just like any other 1,25" eyepiece... the blue cable wires you see is just an extra strengthening step but not really necessay, the focuser handles the weight of my nikon (420gr) easily.... You can also see the brown thin electrical tape (more on that later) A light shroud is absolutely necassary. I also have fabricated a dew shield about 30cm long (from the same black paper I used for the light shroud) which I put in the front end of the OTA just before taking the pictures after I have framed my target and checked my tracking and taken my test frames. This is very important in keeping stray light from nearby sources to a minimum. I also take my flats with the dew/straylight shield on at the end of my imaging session pointing the entire rig to a laptop sceen playing a youtube video named :"24 hours of pure white" from a distance of about 1,5 meters in a completely dark room. Flats taken with a tablet on top the end of the telescope covered with a white t shirt were a huge problem for me at the beggining, because light found its way directky from the secondary to the camera...... I have the heritage mounted on an Skywatcher AZGTI alt az mount I also put a counterweight on the bar of 1kg.You can also see the distance that the trusses are retrieved in order to achieve prime focus with my dslr. I have a layer of thin electrical tape in the focuser threads which makes the focuser very hard to screw and unscrew but once I find focus I never have to move the focuser again for many imaging session. I have the focuser almost completely screwd in. (You will have to try moving the trusses inwards while focusing on a star) The shorter the length of the telescope the shorter the F becomes, so you can capture more light!! When I had the trusses adjusted I was just shy of perfect focus. I then used 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn of the focuset to achieve perfect focus. It was actually very easy. Just make sure the focuser threads are covered with the tape and it is very very tight, because otherwise it is very easy to lose focus if the camera twists even a little and twists the focuser along with it. Screw the 2 screws that hold the tring adapter to the focuser evenly. If you want a different frame rotate just the camera! The focuser must be tight!! I focus on Jupiters moons with the camera in live view and maximum zoom until I see the smaller possible moons. I asked a friend with a 3d printer to make me a bahtinov mask which I found in this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493073 I have only used it once since it comfirmed my already focused camera was spot on! Cheers and clear skies!!
  3. works fine in my browser..... maybr because it is an answer to a pm it is not visible to everybody? Don't know how to copy a post with lots of photos and repost here....
  4. Here is a link to a post with my complete setup for anyone interested https://stargazerslounge.com/messenger/331615/?tab=comments#comment-733149
  5. more data on the rosette... 153subs 15sec iso400 and the horsehead with 215 subs 15sec....
  6. 124 subs 10sec iso400, flats, bias DSS, ST, Snapseed M45 Pleiades
  7. 63 subs 15 sec, iso400, flats, biases, nikonD5500 skywatcher heritage 130p, azgti. DSS, Startools, Snapseed The rosette nebula
  8. iso400 15sec times 140, flats, biases DSS, ST The fireworks galaxy
  9. well there have been occasional clear nights.... Unfortunately the old data from m42 are in another laptop to which I currently do not have access. Do you think iso 400 or iso 200 looks better? I still have not decided what my goto ISO will be. I think 400 brings out nebulosity better even if slightly, but is bloating the stars a little.... Opinions are very much welcome!
  10. some more pictures I took 2 nights ago together with the flame and horsehead nebula.... 180 frames of NGC 891 and 87 from an older session for a total of 267 subs of 15sec, flats and bias DSS ST Snapseed taken with my heritage 130p and Nikon D5500 on a azgti mount 180 light frames 15 sec of M42. same setup as above (before my tracking issues) and here is my previous attempt at m42 @iso200 100subs of 15sec for comparison
  11. Horsehead and flame just 73 lights 15sec iso400, flats and bias. Skywatcher 130p azgti, nikon D5500 prime focus, DSS, ST, Snapseed my mount is having issues.... I will open it up to service it. My azimuth axis is not tracking well. I had to discard 209 frames with obvious tracking issues
  12. NGC 891 118 subs @15sec iso400 28 flats and master bias Skywatcher heritage 130p, AZGti, NikonD5500 prime focus, DSS, ST, snapseed
  13. brand new target NGC 6960-western veil nebula 170 subs 20 sec, flats and bias ISO400 DSS, startools
  14. As the clouds are up I am restacking old data. Here is a mix of ISO200 and 400, exposure times and even 200 subs of M31 setting (180 rotated with regard to the rest!!!), total subs 562 , total integration time 1:45, corresponding flats and biases. Stacked in groups in DSS with average mode and all the rest of the settings as per startools. Heavy crop and process in Startools
  15. Thanks happy-kat! I think so too. It seems that DSS is capable of combining different ISO and exposures. Apart from using average instead of intersection stacking all the rest of DSS settings were as per Startools suggestions.
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