Jump to content

548140465_Animationchallenge.jpg.32379dfa6f3bf4bba537689690df680e.jpg

celestron8g8

Members
  • Posts

    725
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by celestron8g8

  1. I’ve never attempted because of where i live . I have seen several in the past that were excellent and the best i saw was taken with a Skywatcher 90mm short tube . Even then numerous subs for over a 4-hr period of time was used . So all I’ll suggest is if you have a 90mm refractor or smaller would be best . When you mention 55-250 that sounded like the standard lens and if so you'll deal with alot of CA because of Rigel . Unless you use proper filters but if you do then there is another factor of time . But if your able to use a lens with say f/2.8 to f/3 then maybe you can have a better chance . As mentioned though framing Rigel is a key factor to any lens flare so do some trial test shots before you go full time on it to see how flare effects ime from Rigel . 

  2. Aperture does rule cause the bigger the more light gathering it is . The 9.25 has been stated as one of the best planet imaging scopes . But as mentioned it all should be tuned for best results . I’ve taken some decent shots with my C8 but i used a DSLR which are not the best imaging camera but does ok . But I’ve seen some fantastic planet images taken with refractors that would blow your mind . So do your research and choose wisely for scope and camera .  

  3. I installed a Polar Scope on my German EQ5 mount a few years ago and yes it's confusing and yes viewing is up side down . But on a non go to mount you have to use the setting circles with adjustments which i always had a hard time with and still don't understand it . But purpose is after you adjust it correctly then when you do polar alignment your suppose to put Polaris in a tiny circle off set center and that is suppose to be correct alignment . But i find it easier to just point my scope at Polaris and center then adjust the Finder scope to center Polaris . Then i use a bright star close to the Ecliptic line and do manual polar alignment using the azimuth and altitude adjustments knobs . Basically called the drift alignment method which i like best since i don't have a GoTo mount  :( .

    Check out this video and see if it will help some https://binged.it/33Lw7bL

    https://binged.it/34SdC6z

     

  4. I agree with Joe Aguiar is that cheap scopes can more or less deter new beginners from getting in the hobby and staying with it . It would be better to just get a nice set of binoculars like the Celestron 15x70 than to waste money on a cheap scope . All should agree on that ! 

    https://www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/Celestron15x70SkyMaster-14.htm

     

    https://www.celestron.com/products/skymaster-15x70-binoculars

     

    • Like 1
  5. This kit is very similiar to the one that cames with my Celestron C8 with EQ5 mount . It does good for tracking with good polar alignment but not accurate for astrophotography . If i used my DSLR for piggyback i usually could get maybe 1-2 mins of not great but decent images . If i attached at PF  i could do moon and planet shots which were just seconds long . For deep space i had to use a OAG  and glue my eye to the EP with controller in hand . This kit is not a GoTo kit . To slew you have to unlock both axes and center your object then lock axes and use controller to center object . Also I can’t be positive but I don’t think the gears on that mount can handle slewing from a GoTo system . I maybe wrong but i doubt it . But if all your going to do is view and you like finding objects on your own like i do then this mount is a excellent mount !! But it works best to take time and polar align the best you can . I use a 12mm illuminated reticle for polar alignment so i can watch how much stars drift to correct star drift . After that it’s a fun night of viewing and makes imaging alot easier to do !! 

    • Thanks 1
  6. I highly recommend  "Night Watch" by Terence Dickinson ! This book is great for beginners but it will stay with you forever if your really interested in amateur astronomy . It's easy to understand and has constellations for all seasons with popular objects to see even some with binoculars . You won't regret this book !

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nightwatch-Practical-Guide-Viewing-Universe/dp/155407147X/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=night+watch+by+terence+dickinson&qid=1575471498&s=clothing&sr=8-1-fkmr1

    • Like 1
  7. One of my favorite scopes is a 5" Bushnell Newt . Looks just like the Helios in the first picture you posted . I've had it since 1996 . Only thing is the Eye-Pieces were not very good so now when i use it i use better EPs' that i use with my Celestron 8" SCT . I highly recommend any good Newtonian in the 5"-6" range . They are really good scopes especially for beginners . Good luck , keep us updated what you buy .

    • Like 1
  8. With my C8 i use the 25mm that came with scope and 2x barlow which i like best . For WF i like my Celestron 32mm plossi which i also use with barlow . For high power i have a 18mm Celestron Ultima with barlow . The barlow i use is an Ultima . The Ultima brand by Celestron was discontinued a long time ago but were some of the best ones at the time . But as mentioned 32mm, 25mm, 9-12mm plossi . These are 3 basic sizes great for an 8” SCT . What you should not do is overpower your scope what it can handle . 

  9. Sadly  :(  as you found out it will not attach to the FR and even if you made it fit then you would have to screw it onto the visual back and you could not attach any heavy weight cause there isn't enough threads to secure it but besides I don't think the filter would screw onto the VB . I've never got any filters on my C8 to attach to anything but an EP . If you need a filter to use with a DSLR then you need an Astronomik Filter that attaches to the inside of the camera body :  https://optcorp.com/collections/astronomik?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ads&msclkid=273cf9942213183babe6a456d48df240

     

     

  10. For my lens and corrector plate on my SCT I use a Horse Hair brush and I brush lightly . That blower above I would never use on a camera internals or a lens cause the force of air is strong enough to blow particles down inside the camera and possibly damaging the sensor . In the video above remember seeing that each time he used it he paused a moment to let the dust resettle . That's not good cause it settles back on your item your cleaning . If you need to remove dust use a vacuum , not a blower . Key board vacuums are perfect for small jobs for lens and telescopes . 

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=keyboard+vacuum+cleaner&hvadid=78065378095490&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_9rvts86j0k_e

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.