celestron8g8

Wow , very nice !

With normal use and my Celestron C8 i use a 32mm Plossi for normal WFV . If i need wider then i attach the 2" diagonal and add a 2" Plossi EP and that gives me the wider suitable view . I once took the diagonal out and used my 1-1/4" 32mm Plossi through the visual back . How ever it calls for alot of refocusing in and out and very uncomfortable trying to view in the EP being so low to the ground . But the view was amazing but small objects . I find it easier to just use the 2" diagonal and EP than to try that again . Other than that i use the 1-1/4" diagonal and EP .

Oh I thought it was yours , sorry .

disreguard , misunderstanding on post . Sorry !

That's a very nice Dob ! In the4 past i was going to get that same one but they didn't make it anymore and i couldn't find a second on the web for sale . Where did you buy yours from ?

Agree Bob knobs are the way to go . When i did my C8 i just replaced each one at a time and just did a snug tightness . When you loosen a screw you can feel if it’s tight or snug . When you replace with BKs’ try tighten close to but under tight of the one you took out . When re collimate it will not be off as far as you think . Don’t over tighten cause that pinches the lens making stars odd ball shape .

Looks like dust bunnies to me . Try a little hand dust blower to blow off sensor or mirror and see if those still show up .

You can get a darker image by adjusting the BP (Black Point) in levels of any program . Just make sure you don’t darken so much that you clip the BP . Watch your Histogram and try keep all peaks close to center or mid center . Just remember not all dark skies are actually black . Some may look dull or flat black and still makes for a great image . Some areas of space have cloud dust and if you over darken or clip the BP it will cover the cloud dust .

I don’t blame you abit ! Personally if your limited to one scope i think it should be 90% viewing time and 10% or less imaging . Alot of newbies want to jump right into imaging but personally i think one should learn the night sky and what’s out there before imaging ever takes place .

When your camera is attached to your computer you should also be able to choose how you want it to appear on the computer . It’s done from the computer , not the camera itself .

Congratulations ! Hope you have many great nights of viewing and imaging . Look forward to pictures if you get into imaging .

WOW , super nice capture ! Thanks for sharing .

Very nice capture , just a tad soft but not enough to worry about .

Very nice capture , love the WFOV ! You have several bonuses in the field also !

Nice presentation ! I had an image of Mercury crossing the sun and had it framed on gloss paper . What i wish i had done is done a Canvas Wrap Around . Would have been much more better at presentation without any glare or reflections .

I've used the same technique in the first video attaching to a refractor but the 2" PF Adapter also allows you to use with a 2" diagonal if that's what you have on your refractor . It keeps you from having to bend down to see the screen for liveview or looking through the camera viewer . I also use the same adapter with a 2" diagonal for my SCT 8" Celestron . When i use an EP i use a Tele-Extender on the SCT without the diagonal . The 2" PF Adapter is a fantastic piece of equipment used for imaging !

The 40D is an older camera . If you can get a 450D that would be best to go with .

This link leads you to Canons DSLR line . Starts with highest price down to cheapest and in that order camera numbers listed . https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/list/cameras/eos-dslr-and-mirrorless-cameras/dslr/eos-dslr-cameras

Excellent captures ! Haven’t seen good closeups in awhile .

Yep technology is ruining astronomy . In 10 years you won’t be able to image without satellite streaks through your image . 🤬

Wow that’s a great looking scope and really like your mounts too ! If it wasn’t for retiring that would be on my list for a refractor ! What mount is that in the first image ?

I have an Xsi 450D and if i image CGs’ i will use 1600 ISO always cause I’m using a C8 , f/10 . I need at least 10-50 good 2 min exposures or at least 5 good exposures at 5 mins . Then maybe 1/2 dozen dark frames . Trick is the more you stack the less noise you’ll have . 60x2 min exposures and 20 darks will practically illiminate most or all noise .

If you only notice movement in the EP when you touch the rig at all then yes that would be normal just looking in the EP . But if you notice it while repositioning the scope or unlocking the axes then it’s a concern .

I've thought about getting some 25x100s' but out of my pocket right now . But hard to decide which brands really give me a bang for the buck !

Nice capture ! Color does seem to lean a bit towards aqua but I’m looking from my iphone 11 so on a big screen perhaps it’s not so much .