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Hi couple of weeks ago we talking about using a DSLR on my explorer 150.Camera is a canon 40D bit old i know,i have the attachments the Canon eos ring and the T piece. no i experimented in the garden just on a tv antenna which was a success,photo enclosed.Now i tried on the Moon this evening,between clouds and was a total failure,no way could i get it into focus,i tried 2 methods one with T piece direct into telescope eye piece and again with a barlow,both failed.Is it poss i may need a extension tube to get focus?.Telescope is non motor at the moment.Sorry to be a nuisance. Regards derek
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Hi got a break in the clouds removed eye piece holder attached eos ring and screwed that direct to the 2 inch thread whic put my camera up real close. took a photo at least i got some thing this time.now i wish to get a closer photo i have a prob none of my 1.25 eye pieces will fit on scope as i removed the 1.25 eye piece holder.so i have no idea how to get a more detailed photo.
Progress! Is that with the focuser wound right in? Or have you got some adjustment either side of the optimum focus?
With your telescope, that is as big as the moon will appear with the prime focus method you're using. It's the same with my telescope, which is a 200P. The moon doesn't quite fill the photograph.
You will be able to get a rather sharper photo. I suggest using the manual setting with the aperture set as wide as possible. You'll need short exposures because you don't have motors on your mount I think and the moon is moving all the time. Setting a higher ISO will require a shorter exposure. Experiment!
Focus the telescope also in manual mode using live view. Adjust the exposure duration until you see the moon clearly. You might have a x5 or x10 setting in live view which allows you to zoom in on some feature on the moon to focus carefully.
When you're happy with focus, shoot lots of images varying the exposure. It's called 'bracketing'. You're more likely to get a good photo that way. One or two will probably be the right exposure.
Another tip: I suggest using a ten second delay so the scope vibration has time to settle after you press the shutter.
Practise all this in daylight. It makes it easier when you try later in the cold and dark if you're well practised during the day.