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Carl M

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Everything posted by Carl M

  1. OTA is just the tube assembly. If the 1.25" adaptor on the focuser unscrews (where you pop the eyepiece in) you just need a T-ring to connect the 1000D to the focuser. I think you made a wise choice buying that book and you will learn a lot from it I am sure
  2. You'll need one of these T-rings to attach it to the focuser First Light Optics - T Rings Does your OTA have the Direct SLR connection?
  3. 1000D will be good for astrophotography since it has live view, many people use it. Even if your dob had goto it would still be incapable of doing long exposures, for that you need an equatorial mount.
  4. Once it's stacked you need to align the RGB channels, luminance and the saturation. There is a good guide on this here: My Quick DeepSkyStacker Tutorial Flintstone Stargazing
  5. Hi, That's looking much better. Did you adjust the luminance in DSS once it had stacked?
  6. I'd try with the 18-55mm stock lens until you have got a setup which can track the stars. Put the lens at 18mm, 30 second exposures and shoot at ISO 800. I think ISO 3200 is too much for that camera, especially at only 22 x 5 seconds. That's the reason why its so noisy. Here is a picture I did with 18-55mm lens at 18mm doing 30 sec exposures. It's cygnus which is a dense part of the milky way - not sure if its still visible now though.
  7. DeepSkyStacker will choose the best frames before stacking. Regarding noise, what ISO are you taking the pictures at? Generally if the image is noisy and grainy it means that there is not enough exposure time for the amount of stretching done in photoshop via levels or curves (if you are doing that?). 22 x 5 secs isn't much exposure time, which I think the problem is here. More exposure time = more signal and more stretching you will be able to do to the image. I would have thought that the amount of darks, bias and flats are efficient enough for the amount of lights although I have never used bias or flats before. Do you still have the 18-55mm stock lens? Maybe you would get better results using that as you should be able to get 30 seconds at 18mm without any major trailing issues. Could you upload the picture after it's been stacked in DSS? Might be able to diagnose a little easier that way.
  8. Yep, you just need a T-ring optimised for whatever DSLR you've got. You will be able to take some prime focus shots of the moon with a DSLR but not much more really. You could possibly try planets with a webcam at low magnification with some practice but it would start getting tricky when adding barlow lenses. Anything over a 1 second exposure is most likely going to start showing trails unless you get an EQ mount in the future. I took this picture of the moon at prime focus with my old 300D when my 200P used to be on its dob platform. Beware! Once you click the shutter, there is a dramatic loss of funds in the bank account!
  9. It means you can unscrew the 1.25" eyepiece holder from the focuser to reveal the T-thread which a DSLR can connect to with a T-ring. Never had any problems focusing with my 1000D at all this way.
  10. To be honest, it's not the correct setup for imaging planets at all. You need a lot more focal length than 90mm to get any sort of detail on mars, possibly 2000mm+ and a webcam to capture as many frames as possible. I think you should stick to widefield for the time being.
  11. I was looking at those Quattro's too, to replace my current OTA which is F6 from what used to be a dobsonian. The only thing that puts me off is the amount of maintenance needed to keep it in good collimation otherwise there will be odd star shapes in pictures and it's much more demanding in eyepieces so visual wouldn't be as good unless TV eyepiece were invested into. How would F4 compare with F5 and F6 exposure times? I'm not sure on the calculations to work it out but if it makes a dramatic difference in exposure times I might think about getting one for my birthday in a few months.
  12. Certainly defying the odds with that unmodded camera Rik, what a lovely result! Maybe a little too much red? The background has started turning a little red on my screen, but still its a quality picture for an unmodded camera. I'm actually considering leaving my camera unmodded with the pictures you post and just get a faster scope instead i.e. f4 Quattro, surely if it collects light quicker the camera should get more signal?
  13. Looks over exposed as the moons are not normally that prominent. What settings were you using?
  14. 8 inches of aperture is plenty to see more than the solar system objects. Infact, you should be able to find most of all the Messier objects in a 200P, aswell as Caldwell and NGC objects - depending on how good/bad your skies are of course. If your mainly into visual at the moment you can't go wrong with Stellarium, a copy of Turn left at Orion and a Cambridge star Atlas - all are great things to help you navigate around the sky!
  15. B&Q Safety Rcd Adaptor ARCDNB Black, ARCDNB You put one of these in the socket first, it regulates the current and will cut off the electric if the current changes protecting your equipment and more importantly yourself! You many need a weatherproof box too to put the extension in to keep any moisture out.
  16. I use 2 counterweights and power it via an RCD protected mains (very important). You can alternatively use a battery pack with 12v cigaratte output sockets but I need the mains and an extension so that I can power the laptop as well as the mount.
  17. First Light Optics - Skywatcher Telescope Tube Rings I have these ones and one of these long dovetails First Light Optics - Skywatcher Dovetail Mounting Plates
  18. You need to buy a long dovetail and the 235mm skywatcher tube rings. You honestly won't regret buying an NEQ6, it will serve you for many years I am sure and is very future proof if you want to add guidescope etc. at a later date.
  19. As with any large-ish reflector the wind can be bit of a pain, especially when you are doing long sub exposures. If that is the case on a clear night, I'll either do some visual work or planetary because the 200P is a versatile scope and is great for visual as well as starting imaging.
  20. I use my dobsonian 200P OTA + ST80 on my EQ6 and it seems to be OK with it. I've just started autoguiding and can get 5 minute subs at least. Unguided can get 1 minute subs. I'm sure that the mount will be OK for your 200P, there are a few people that use the EQ6 with a 10" on top and guidescope! Here is my setup with the 200P on EQ6 And here is a 5 minute sub of Orion by using the ST80 and a SPC900 webcam for guiding. There is a bit of trailing in the corners but that is normal because there is no coma corrector in the imaging train yet It's good setup I think and has good potential, just hard to get everything in frame as the F/L is 1200mm. Can't fit M42 and the running man in the frame otherwise the tail of M42 would get cut off! Hope that helps, Carl
  21. When I do the 3 star alignment for the first star I always unlock the clutches to get the star in the FOV and then fine tune so its in the middle, then the next two stars are always in the FOV and its just a case of using the directional buttons on the handset to get the star in the middle. Never had a problem doing it that way. Also remember that the scope needs to be in an accurate home position once you start the alignment.
  22. I like to use this site Astronomy Calendar of Celestial Events 2012 - Sea and Sky
  23. Just a quick follow up from this thread, I think I've got it sorted now. Ensured balance was good and tweaked the PHD settings a little - changed RA aggressiveness to 110 and Dec Duration to 200ms and the graph had calmed down Here is another 5min sub with no star duplicates this time! Stars look a little pinched because (don't laugh) I've not collimated my scope ever since I got it in Dec 2010 Next thing on the cards is a Laser collimator and Baader Coma Corrector and I will hopefully be well on my way. Thanks all
  24. Wahey, it's working again! Flashing the firmware done the trick, hopefully will be able to see Mars tomorrow without the handset corrupting itself! Cheers for helping me troubleshoot anyway, Brantuk
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