Jump to content


Carl M

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carl M

  1. The 200PDS will give a larger image since it is 1000mm focal length and is less reliant on precise collimation compared to the f/4 newts. Unless you want a scope which is more or less strictly for imaging and needs to have precise collimation as well as a coma corrector, the 200PDS will need a coma corrector as well but will be less evident than the f/4's. You can compare the scopes focal lengths with the FOV calculator Field of view Calculator<script src="title2.js"></script> It's up to your personal preference at the end of the day, do you want a fast photon grabber newt needing a fair bit of maintenance or do you want a slightly larger image with less maintenance work and a cheaper price?
  2. HEQ5 or EQ5? Your title says HEQ5 but your post says EQ5? I put my 8" tube from the dob onto a CG5 to start off with and it wasn't stable by any means. In the end I went and bought a second hand EQ6 and put the synscan upgrade kit on it and it was rock steady. The Skyliner is a long tube and quite heavy so I'm not sure an EQ5 would cope. HEQ5 maybe but if you were to add a guidescope onto that as well I'm not too sure the HEQ5 would be enough. You could always sell the 8" dob to fund a 200PDS for a shorter and lighter tube? That would be OK on a HEQ5 with a guidescope piggybacked on top. The Skyliner is a long tube to have to lug around as well as an EQ mount which is precisely why I sold mine back on the dob mount to fund a shorter 8" quattro tube which is on the way.
  3. Aperture is irrelevant in astrophotography, the faster the f/# the more data you are going to collect. However, fast f/# scopes tend to be reflectors and with that you have to deal with collimation and coma to ensure you keep round star shapes. That is why people tend to go for 80mm apochromat refractors because you don't need to worry about collimation and with a focal reducer they can be made to have a faster f/#, as well as having a wider field of view. Refractors have a lot less maintenance compared to reflectors. An ED80 on an HEQ5 would serve as a good setup.
  4. Same price as an Atik 314L+, I know which I would go for if I had the money. Would have been better if they had done it on a cheaper model like the 1100D or 1000D so it wouldn't be as expensive and would be out of the CCD range. Time will tell though when they are released and some reviews have been produced.
  5. You can get them from this website www.7timer.com enter your location, hover over the red marker it sets and then select where it says "ASTRO". You will then get something similar to this? I think that's what you mean anyway?
  6. As well as that the motors are different in the mounts, HEQ5 and up have better tracking accuracy. The motors are also in different positions - HEQ5 + EQ6 have the motors housed internally in the mount whereas the others are external.
  7. Wise choice I think, dobs are great. No need to align them or anything, just plop it down outside and you are ready to go. Don't get me wrong about the 130P, I'm sure its an ok scope in itself but for the same price you can get a scope which is significantly bigger and one that requires no setup time. Remember that aperture is king if you are going to go for visual observing and the 200P gives great views of DSO's as well as planets. You may want to check out this thread regarding stock of the 200P http://stargazerslounge.com/sponsor-announcements-offers/181651-shortage-telescopes.html
  8. 200P on an EQ5 would serve as an ok start to get into imaging, maybe you should think about adding basic dual axis motors to it and a cheaper webcam to start imaging at some point instead of going straight in for an imaging source CCD? It would be easier to track planets if you have the motors added, also the dual axis motors would allow you to start doing some deep space photography as you will have the motors to track at sidereal rate assuming you have a DSLR already? I would scrap the 130p Goto to be honest, you are paying mainly for the electronics there and not the actual scope.
  9. You will get chromatic aberration with the startravel so wouldn't recommend for photography. I would go for the 150P personally.
  10. Astronomy Calendar of Celestial Events 2012 - Sea and Sky You don't get notices from the site but has loads of upcoming events for years to come - I noted them on my own calendar for easier reference
  11. To upload it here you will need to resize it to a smaller resolution, 1024x768 is a normal size image and then you will need to save it as a jpeg. Image > Image size then change the width to 1024 pixels > hit OK. Save as > choose a file name > click on format dropdown box and select jpeg. It should then let you upload it here.
  12. Atacama Desert would be my choice
  13. I don't even think for visual an EQ5 is enough. When I had mine on the CG5 it wasn't stable by any means and now finds itself redundant in the conservatory ready to be sold..get the NEQ6 if you can stretch that far. Never looked back since buying the EQ6, worthy investment for the future.
  14. Both fast focal ratio and focal length are important in a guidescope. You need it to be fast to pick up fainter stars and reasonably wide FOV so that you have a range of stars to pick. I've never heard of a starlight 80 before so can't comment on that scope. ST80 is the normal choice of guidescope or a finder-guider.
  15. Can't go wrong with a Skywatcher Startravel 80.
  16. Polar alignment aligns the head of the mount to the North Celestial Pole using polaris' transit time to predict where the NCP will be at the given time. I would say definately give it a go even if it's a rough alignment. You will only need to adjust the slow motion R.A controls then and DEC every so often depending on polar alignment accuracy. It will also give you practice for when you decide to take photo's - polar alignment has to be accurate for this, otherwise you will get trails relatively quickly unless you are guiding...which is a whole new ball game.
  17. With a webcam you will need to unscrew the lens and add a 1.25" nosepiece and/or filters. Same goes for a DSLR - remove the lens and add the adapter for your scope so you can attach it to the focuser. The only optics you would use infront of a DSLR would be a clip-in filter, coma corrector or focal reducer, these are not a must have but will improve the performance of your scope, especially if you have heavy light pollution, a fast focal ratio (coma corrector) scope or a slow one (focal reducer).
  18. Do you have the drizzle function activated? I had that problem a while a go and having 2x drizzle ticked was the cause.
  19. You many find that buying a short refractor like an ED80 to be easier to start doing AP with rather than a large reflector. The 200P dob tube is quite long and heavy which is why I put mine on an EQ6 and then I have an ST80 piggybacked on the top for guiding. 1200mm F/L can be quite annoying at times since some things dont fit into the FOV very easily, I can only get M42 in the frame but not the running man. Also with an ED80 you don't need to worry about collimation and you would have a wider field of view. Not sure how well the 200P would fare on an HEQ5 though but remember that the mount is the most important component in AP. Get the best mount that you can within your budget then you will not live to regret it later on!
  20. The way I look at it is that it's a hell of a lot cheaper than tuition fees
  21. The CG5 isn't equivalent to a HEQ5. It's more of an EQ5 with a few modifications i.e. 2" tripod legs and better bearings. So the CG5 sits in between an EQ5 and HEQ5..closer to an EQ5 though. An HEQ5 is an Orion Sirius EQ-G over in the states I believe and the Orion SkyView is similar to an EQ5.
  22. Thanks for the comments. Think I will get the Baader MPCC then once FLO gets some more in stock. It also has a T-thread on it I believe so I can connect DSLR straight to it with a T-ring? Reguarding the SW one I dont think I'll want the quattro any faster than it already is until I'm comfortable with its mechanics. I've seen Dion's tutorial on youtube about advanced collimation which I assume will need to be performed on the quattro frequently to keep it in good collimation. Thanks, Carl
  23. Theres a great free plugin for photoshop called Hasta La Vista Green which works wonders if there is too much green in an image, here is a link to the download if you would like Hasta La Vista, Green! | Deep Sky Colors - Astrophotography by Rogelio Bernal Andreo Hope you dont mind but I did a strong filter on your image and managed to get this by using the filter. Can't advise you on long term fix though as I'm not familiar with proper CCD's, sorry.
  24. and get an 8" quattro for my birthday next month to replace my 200P dob OTA as its focal length is too long and is quite slow at f/6. Many benefits of the quattro over the current OTA with shorter focal length and faster focal ratio but with the challenge of keeping good collimation I want to keep my DSLR unmodded which is another reason why I'm opting for f/4 instead of a PDS, until of course I leave 6th form, get a job and hopefully get a proper CCD. So, I know I will be needing a coma corrector but which is best out of the Baader and Skywatcher correctors? Are there any benefits or drawbacks between the two? Thanks in advance, Carl
  25. Keep the tube and put the £500 towards a mount? You could probably get a second hand HEQ5 synscan for £500 which you could put the 8" tube on. You would need a dovetail and some tube rings for that also.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.