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About quantumpanda

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  1. Hi Michael, I am delighted to report that thanks to your help I have solved the problem! I wouldn't have even known about DMM continuity function if you hadn't posted. Can you believe, the problem was the switch? There was no continuity when in the on position so I stripped it off, isolated the wires and joined them together... working! If I can pick your electrical brain one last time - the switch says 3A 250v - does that mean it has a fuse? As in, should I aim to replace it or can I just simply bypass it with a simple wire and switch off at the wall/battery instead? Thank goodness I didn't pay the £110 for a new motherboard! Edit: I've just shelled out a hefty £1.20 for a replacement switch, but I guess the question now is, am I safe in the meantime to bypass it with a direct wire? Double Edit: I popped the switch rocker out and removed the plate corrosion. All sorted! Thank you! Stefan.
  2. Hi Michael, I tested the resistance between the centre pin and outer connector of the mount power socket and it reads a zero. The soldering and component looks fine, although there was some white residue which I cleaned off. Stefan.
  3. Hi Michael. Many thanks for your advice. I've purchased a DVM on your suggestion and should be able to begin testing tomorrow. Unfortunately the simple fix of a faulty PSU is not the case as it has already been tested with a borrowed DVM (and to be sure, swapped with another PSU). It sounds like it's very easy for me to test the mount socket pins, which I have concern for. When you say 'follow the motherboard tracks' how exactly is this done? Is this continuity testing, such that you select two places on the board, or do you simply test the voltage across specific components on the board? Stefan.
  4. Dear SGL Community, A couple of years back my HEQ5 Syntrek mount stopped working. It was stored in incredibly damp conditions which most likely contributed to its demise. I no longer have this damp issue so I want to fix it. I had a similar problem before this which was intermittent (took the mount apart, did nothing, replaced and it worked). I am using the original PSU which I have tested (and used an alternative). There is no movement in the motors, no polarscope LED and no power LED when connected. I've taken the mount apart and the motherboard looks very health (to a non electrician), paying close attention to the capacitors. I am happy to pay for a replacement motherboard, but I am keen to identify this really is the issue. Should the front power LED light even if the main motherboard doesn't work? The small power controller board doesn't appear to be replaceable if this is the problem part! I think I have concern for the PSU connector as the original PSU was so short it swung freely when connected placing real strain on it. I also read in an older post about the polarscope led wires being exposed and causing a problem (shorting?). There is black insulation running down to it, but there is about 1-2 cm of bare wire running to it - is that normal? Many thanks for your help suggestions.
  5. Ok, this is good so far, thanks guys: Check astroboot for eyepeices and skysthelimit for the adaptor. But I need tube rings... and any thoughts on the scope itself?
  6. The obvious benefit of an adaptor to me is that I already possess a few eyepeices of normal size. I really need the tube rings to mount it on anything though!
  7. The obvious benefit of an adaptor to me is that I already possess a few eyepeices of normal size. I really need the tube rings to mount it on anything though!
  8. Hello SGL, I aquired an old refractor off my University. I want to keep it, because I feel like there is a lot of history behind it. It's dented, scratched and generally looking very poor - so I was going to spruce it up. The optics appear fine. However, it is only 2.5" and uses the old eyepeice system 0.965 inch. The tube length is around 60cm. This made me suspicious, as I thought this design was found in, for example, Toys 'R' Us. However, it feels solid, and the only eyepiece supplied with it (6x30mm) has a glass lens. Wiki seems to suggest that there was a time that high quality scopes of this configuration were made. The problem is, I cannot find any markings to suggest the brand / make. I'd like to be able to mount it on my HEQ-5, but I cannot find any suitable tube rings. Also, where does one purchase quality eyepeices of this size, or do you convert? Is there anything that I have said that suggests this is destined for the tip> Thank you.
  9. Dear Stargazers Community, Due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, my HEQ5 was stuck in a wet/damp garage for a lengthy period. Today I was able to salvage it. Initially I had some issues getting the motors going, but I was able to do it - despite the mount being very wet - with water actually in the power port. After a while it stopped tracking, and emitted a constant whine. I noticed the Syntrek handset was flashing - ALL keys. Nothing I pressed did anything. The LED on the actual mount was consistent. After a series of removing and reinserting the power/handset I was able to get it working again. Shortly after it failed again. This time I could not get it to work. I brought the head inside and dismantled it to see inside. The compartment with the board in looked dry, so I removed the front port panel and checked there. A small amount of water, which I dried. I put the whole thing back together to no effect. I left it for about 5 minutes, then retried and now it works again. I've just left it on and tracking now. Since I don't seem to be able to find anything online about flashing LEDs on the handset, I have not been able to confirm what the problem actually is (although it does sound water damage likely). Anyone familiar with this, heard from someone else, or just any tips about keeping it running? I'm worried it might just give up completely. It is possible to replace the board in this situation, and if so, how much do they cost? Thanks for reading.
  10. Huzzah! Plymouth, Plymstock is my hometown, I've only just moved to Exeter. Light Pollution is worse here unfortunately
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