Fellside

Hi I have an RC10 Scope with a carbon tube. I have been progressively modifying the scope over the years. I am very pleased with it. But there is always room for improvement. I remember reading this article some time ago (its from 2013). About halfway down there is a mention of "false light" My scope was the same. As far as I could tell it was not causing problems with my data, or was it. http://interferometer-tests.blogspot.com/ I then saw this on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHuLrYe-oik This confirmed what the earlier article had shown. It appears to show that all variants of GSO derived RC`s are affected by this problem. Light is reaching the focal plane directly from the sky, bypassing the secondary into the baffle tube because the baffle tube is to short. Dimensions for extended baffles are mentioned in the accompanying text. I have printed one for the RC10 from Thingiverse. With only a small dressing with a file it fitted straight on. Great bit of drawing by Andrew Gutierrez. I have yet to test the extension under the stars, so we shall see. Baffle printed with Carbon reinforced PETG, so it has a matt finish, although it looks glossy in the picture. Not sure that the baffles ar required in the extention as there are none in the existing baffle tube. Who knows GSO may have got that wrong as well🙂 Next mod on my RC is to remove the outer Ring Baffles that line the carbon tube. As mentioned in the Interferometer artificial. I have ordered Flock from FLO to line the tube. Hope this helps some RC users out there. Graham

The 174 is not cheap but it has more uses than just as a guide camera. QHY version is even more expensive. If you can reliably hold the front section of the X2. I think machining is the neatest solution. I have the TS-Optics REFRACTOR 0.79x 3" ED Reducer which looks like the new version of the Altair reducer you mention. On the Altair site the two examples of spacing setup are both over the 51.5mm ideal spacing. So It might be worth giving it a try. Altair quote a 5mm tolerance. I wish all Reducers were so tolerant Initially I will fit the 268 to my TS 0.79, SW Esprit 100 combination. Then it will go on the GSO RC10 at Bin x2. Regard Graham

Xsub What 130 Scopes (F number) and Reduces are you using? Have you used the scope and reducer combination already and found that 52mm works? As Starflyer has mentioned the ASI 174MM Mini would help as the BF is listed as 8.5mm. You mentioned the guide camera housing is (with blue ring) is 38mm deep. The ASI 174MM Mini is 40.7 from the nose to the start of the Fins. So that is getting close as well. But it should be ok I have a 268/FW and OAG on the way, I also I have as many probably will a Lodestar X2. So It looks like a change of guide camera may be coming. Regards Graham

Hi I almost sure you need the "GEM auto Flip Go To" ticked in Sitech. The mount should track passed the meridian up to your 2 degree limit. Or it will be flipped by NINA within that time. I may be wrong, give it a try. Graham

Steve I read in the NINA forum that they are working towards Dome support. Weather is now supported and Switch's. I have not looked at what Weather does when it detects an unsafe condition. There is an option at the moment to run a script when the sequence finishes. So that could close the dome/roof. Unless I missed it I don't see an option to run a script at the beginning of a sequence. Graham

Steve Mr Browns Dew Controller looks very interesting as well as a Myfocuser. On the MySQM project he recommends the Mega and not the Nano but the PCB appears to be for the Nano. Which Arduino did you use and what functions did you fit? Graham

Hi PCB`s were ordered 1st July and arrived today two weeks later. The boards look fine, were well packaged and I got a complimentary roll of insulating tape. Company was JLCPCB.COM Minimum order 5 boards. Price £5.85 including shipping from HongKong. Great service, I will be using them again. Problem is I have to make 5 of everything🙂 There are quiet a few Robert Brown MY projects I am interested in. Regards Graham

Carol If you want to fit the TS 0.79x 3" FR you will need the following adapter from TS. The camera side of the FR is M48x0.75 thread. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9017_Lacerta-Adapter-to-female-M68x1-thread-for-Skywatcher-ESPRIT-apos.html SW flattener comes ready to fit to the 100 and again has a M48x0.75 thread on the camera side. If you really want to go with a FR you then save the cost of the SW flattener. Regards Graham

I have a SW Esprit 100 fitted with the TS 0.79x 3" FR (on Göran recommendation) and I am very pleased with the combination. Regards Graham

Thank you Paul, A custom f8 collimator is the perfect solution. It's printing now. Merlin, I will be ordering the optics next week. including 25 x 25 600 l/mm grating. Thanks, I'm sure there will be plenty of questions about the BASS project Regards Graham

Hi My Lowspec is just about printed with only a few parts to complete. I have a questions. I hope Paul or an experienced user can help. I will be using a RC10 F8 scope. What combination of part 08 collimatorlens holder f10 and grating type will give the best results. Many thanks Graham

Hi All, First I would like to thank Alan (Symmetal) for his help with this project. He pointed me towards using KiCAD. Then spent his valuable time carrying out most of the work. Thanks Alan Ok this is how for we have got so far. Its a double sided board 79 x 43. Berger file is generated and all I have to do is send it to the pcb manufacture of my choice. Graham

Paul, No its ok. I thought is might be updated when ever you uploaded a new part or modification. Graham

Hi Paul, I'm pretty much a beginner using Cura. So there may be an option to print different areas at different settings. I will have a look. Printing the cover at 0.1mm would take a while PETG carbon was new and straight out of a sealed bag. I will have another try today. Question. Is the Lowspec 3 Fusion 360 whole model on Thingiverse file automatically kept up to date as updates are applied? Graham

Greg, Thanks for the information. I did find them hidden in Experimental. At the moment I am going with the normal support. I wonder if it would be a good idea to just make a hole in the cover and print a separate thread insert to take the Grating holder cap. That way you could print the cover fairly fast and the Grating thread insert slow with the optimum setting for thread printing. Insert would then be glued in later. At the moment I am having a problem with PETG carbon. Every where it says it sticks to every bed surface to well. But after a successful test print I cant get it to stick. It just drag's around and forms a ball around the nozzle.😬 Many Thanks Graham

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Fozzy I just looked at Fritzing. I uploaded another Gerber file and ready to order in seconds. 18Euro for three boards from Germany and free shipping. Great. Alan They also accept KiCad files Thanks Fozzy Graham

RL This is going to be for a very limited number of boards so I was looking to keep the cost down. Alan KiCad looks interesting. I will install it tonight and have a look at what it can do. I may take you up on your offer to get me started. Julian I use Fusion 360 and have now installed Eagle. I must have been looking in the wrong place, the library didn't seem that big to me. There was no Nano which is my main component. Thanks all for your recommendations. Graham

The same photographic one. Thanks for the manual link. I've just had a look back through the thread. It a pity your F/L v`s Turns graph dos`nt go up to 2000mm😉 Graham

Dave Thanks for the information. I have ordered one from FLO. I only put my Esprit on the mount a couple of weeks ago. I will replace it with the RC10 when it gets dark again and see what results I get. Many thanks Graham

Hi Has anyone any experience of generating a PCB layout from a Schismatic drawing. I know there is software that can do it but I have no idea where to start. So if you have used anything first hand and could point me towards a free solution that would be great. Board is relativly simple with a Arduino naro, couple of chips, plugs, connectors etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Graham

Bruce You are probably correct. F/L varies between batches. The Ronchi eyepiece should allow the user to set the correct F/L to suit there instrument. Whatever it is. What problems did you encounter when using the Ronchi? Graham

Hi I have a RC10C and I normally collimate with a Howie Glatter Parallizer, Laser Collimator and a Cheshire Eyepiece. I am happy with the results. To check the focal length I upload to Astrometry.net and then plate solve an image in Prism as a check. I don't own Pixinsight so I cant comment on it accuracy. I am quite interested in the Ronchi eyepiece that has been mentioned. The one that is linked is a photographic version. Dave07 Did you use it with a ccd connected or an eyepiece. Or can you just look through it once focused.? The reason I am interested is I read an article that say the F/L of the RC10 should be 1970mm and not as you would assume 2000mm. Mine plate solves within 1mm of 2000mm. Collimation is supposed to be easier the closer you get to the correct spacing so I would certainly like to give one of the Ronchi eyepiece a try. When I have the instrument set I was never keen to go winding it in to 1970mm to check if the article was right, But now I may do that. http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=148213 Thanks for a very interesting thread. Graham

GregJ888 What Slicer are you using to generate support like that? Graham