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Everything posted by PARTY MARTY

  1. I was once a Newtonian lover! But now I'm imaging with APO refractors, I just love those razor sharp views! And imaging is so much easier and quicker! My 8" Quattro reflector is a excellent imaging scope, but the images are not as sharp compared to the 115mm Triplet! Ok imaging with the Quattro, collecting data is ultra fast, but the APO despite being slower, even with a focal reducer to reduce it down to a decent speed of F5.5 to resonable light photon gathering! However apeture is not as important for imaging, it's the F-ratio which counts!!!
  2. You'll be fine mate! You'll get massive and fit with it buddy!!!
  3. Congrats to your new scope! It's really good quality! I've just bought the TS 115mm Triplet APO F7 Refractor from TS!!!, cost a bomb and yet again build like a tank too weighing around 8Kg mark! Again you can't grumble with sheer German engineering quality. Bear in mind that your's is Achromat, so you'll get some hint of CA! so I seriously recommend you to invest on a Baader semi apo filter to the best performance for your refractor!
  4. From the album: Saturn

    Here's the close up of Saturn with the same equipment and program used!, And still the image is razor sharp even when cropped!!!

    © M Pyott



    From the album: Saturn

    Same image of Saturn using the Lunt 80mm ED Refractor, only this time the image is stacked and processed in Registax 6. A total of the best 777 frames out of 1800 frames captured. This is probraly the best image of Saturn I've ever managed to date!!! I am extremely happy with this one so far!!!

    © M Pyott

  6. I've just updated all my Syncan hand sets to 3.35v firmware! However it mentions the re-polar alignment menu! However I've just looked through the menus on the Star alignment selection, And it seems re-polar align seems to be missing? I wonder if the menu is avaliable once you achieve 2 star alignment? I wish the skies clear up so that I can confirm this??
  7. Having owned a QHY8L for 2 years and have to say I disagree the cheap electronics comment! If you look after the equipment by following proper maintenance procedures and ensure that the CCD as decessicant renewal to ensure the electronics are kept dry when the CCD is not in use then it's completely fine! My QHY8L as been the very reliable and I've never ran into problems with most moisture or frosting into the CCD chip, which a few years back was big major design flaw with the QHY8L, but now finally QHY have finally sorted it out. There's a lot of people out there who don't like the QHY for several reasons, but to be honest it's really personal choice! For me the QHY is a really good OSG CCD for the price, you'll get a large chip nearly the size of a DSLR. The reasons why I choose a OSG is that where I live I don't have that much clear skies, so I wanted to capture the images as much as the weather was clear, The QHY8L might not be as senstive as a mono CCD, but there are way's you can do by increasing the sensitivity on the QHY8L by 2x2 binning to gather the light photons quicker but you'll lose slight loss in resoultion, but then you don't have hassle to deal with colour filters or filter wheels! It's a big choice to make really, Mono or colour, CCD or DSLR! either way! My recomendation as a beginner myself my first choice would go for a OSG CCD! Then when you do become more advanced and exprerinced into CCD imaging, then opt for a Mono CCD! But personally I'm quite happy with the results of my images from my trusty QHY8L.
  8. I had this idea for some time, just never thought to ask this, which I have a feeling that this might be a stupid question, but I've been pondering on the subject! I've had this idea, that you can get a serprate Antares 0.5x focal reducer, can you combine it with a normal field flattener, to enable you have a cheaper Focal reducer and field flattener together! I've actually got a 0.8x focal reducer and flattener for my 80mm ED Lunt refractor, but it only reduces the focal ratio down to F 5.5, however you just cannot find anything smaller than 0.8x. This is when I thought that the 0.5x focal reducer might work? if some one knows that this method works, than I could possibly achieve F 3.5 which is incredibly fast for imaging! And might be very useful when imaging very large DSO targets like the North American Nebula and the Andromenda Galaxy! However if anyone as tried it, please tell me if it works or not? It sounds a stupid question but it would be very interesting to know if such idea might work?
  9. The TS 90 is carbon tube, I reckon a HEQ-5 mount would easily carry that scope no problems! Even with a 80mm guidescope, and a CCD attached to it! It should be fine!
  10. I've bought the TS 115mm F7 Triplet APO from TS! Quite an expensive scope (Which I paid around 1800 euros but it does come with a focal reducer with it) but the engineering quality is quite something! I've managed excellent images of DSO's! However it's quite a large APO refractor but relatively light around 6Kg which is not bad considering it's a aluminium tube, most of the weight is from the Triplet objective itself! The optical coatings are of very high quality and I cannot see any CA in my images or by visual use! Despite the high cost, I'm starting to love my 115mm APO more than my 8" Quattro, it offers sharper razor crisp images than the Quattro and the imaging set-up seems a lot easier than the Quattro, however not as fast as the Quattro only deliverying F5.5 with the focal reducer, but my CCD images are so clear and sharp! Don't get me wrong here the Quattro is a really good imaging scope, however my 115mm APO seem's to have edge over the Quattro, I don't know why but being a strong reflector owner over many years! But If you going to use a scope for CCD imaging I believe that a high quality APO refractor is the way to go, I soon realised that more apeture is not really as important, it's the focal ratio is the big one for Astro-imaging! Despite an APO being really expensive I finally taken the plunge, and realised why most astro-imagers opt for the APO, and now I can see why they use them! And now I've bought and used many telescopes of many kinds, I which in the end I bought an APO in the first place??? So if you're serious in imaging and you want to make an investment, I believe that the TS 90 Carbon APO would make an excellent imaging scope!


    From the album: Saturn

    Saturn 06/04/13 image taken with Lunt 80mm ED Refractor (TS 2.5x Barlow) and SPC900 Webcam, collected 1800 frames stacked using Autostackert2 and final processing using Paint shop Pro X5. This is my best image to date being the earth's atmosphere was extremely steady!

    © M Pyott

  12. Thanks Steve! Now there's someone who uses a Hutech filter with the QHY CCD, This looks promising indeed! But I've got in touch with the retailer and they said that I should go for the V4 is a brand new CCD filter from Hutech which provide allows certain light paths through without adding colour to the object being imaged, instead blocking certain wavelengths allows to pass through and providing light pollution protection as well! They said if the filter didn't work out for me, I can always get the filter exchanged for the P2. So let's hope they are right about the V4! Fingers crossed!
  13. Thanks Davew! It's more likely the V4 which seems to be the filter I'm looking for! It's more for the Hb I'm more interested in! The V4 is 10 euros more expensive than the P2! I just can't believe that there is no one as used one for their images! Alright I'll dive in the deep end and find out, hope for the best that the V4 works for me! It's a risky gamble but if it works, I'll post a review on SGL to let others know about the V4!
  14. Tell me about it russellhq! I've not had many replies at all! I know there's gotta to be someone who use's a Hutech filter for imaging! I know that they are widely used by many astronomers?? If there's anyone who owns one please shout out! These filters are very expensive and I would know from your experinences from these Hutechs, I would not like to waste a lot of money for something which might not work well for me??? Please help????? :huh:
  15. Hi everyone at SGL! I'm currently stuck in a dilemma between 2 Hutech filters which are IDAS LPS P2 and IDAS LPS V4, which I'm currently looking for a excellent LP filter so that I can attach my QHY8L CCD and take longer exposures of faint nebulas (Particularly the nebulas which are in the Hydrogen Beta region) But I'm plagued with mild light pollution, as soon as I hit pass the 300 second exposure mark, I'm starting to get a hint of sky glow on my images, which isn't good when you need all the light to get these incredibly faint gases! Now I've heard that the Hutech filters give good light transmission and avoid adding colour to the images, which my TS CLS 2" filter keeps adding more reddish colour which is annoying! Now these Hutechs are very expensive filters, but is there anyone who owns these filters and can you to me your experiences with these Hutechs, Now there are 2 variants which the P2 seems to get good results from some customer reviews but the V4 is brand new one and is slightly more expensive Can anyone tell me what's the difference between them?? It's a lot of money to waste, but I want to make sure that I buy the best valued filter I can possible, so that I can increase my exposure times more, However you can't beat a Clear dark sky which then that would be a different story as I would never consider a filter, but unfornately our skies are becoming invaded slowly and slowly with this dreaded light pollution!!
  16. Both coma correctors are good! I own the Skywatcher one which I use for my 8" F4 Quattro and it works ok which I get a slight hint of coma on the edges but the Skywatcher one really works perfectly with a F5 reflector, so your PDS reflector will work perfectly! I've heard that the Baader one's are much better but slightly more expensive, but the quality on the coatings are much better than the Skywatcher, I'm not sure on the TS one but usually they should be good quality as well, I'm not complaining cos I've bought a new TS 115mm Triplet APO F7 Refractor from them and the engineering quality is quite superb!
  17. After using my Lunt 80mm ED F7 (F5.5 with reducer) Refractor on imaging M42 Orion nebula with the QHY8L, I compared my images results with my 8" Quattro of same amount of exposures. And my gosh I was amazed that that the Lunt 80mm ED beat the Quattro hands down with the sheer sharpness of the image. Even when I was imaging the raw image of the nebula appeared so much better! I've now come to terms that Apeture is not needed for Astro-imaging! Even using the Lunt was a pleasure to set-up, I got polar aligned and fully focused within minutes, Carrying the Quattro and setting it up was becoming more a ball ache! So I'm getting drawn to the APO refractor side! The QHY8L seems to perform so much better with Lunt, So I'm thinking of getting a 115mm Triplet APO F7 and buy a x0.79 focal reducer and field flattener to step it down to F5.4 to replace the 8" Quattro on the NEQ-6, I'm going all out on this one, I know that these instruments are extremely expensive but the images you get are outstanding! My maximum budget is around £1300, but the way these Refractors I like they easy to use, dew is easy to control (with a dew strip), no collimation needed, more compact and easy to transport! Now I can clearly see why so many astronomers buy these APO's, they are truly real performers on imaging, (As if they are the sports performance cars) The Quattro seem's to be a little behind in the sharpness of resoultion, even if my collimation is spot on, A 80mm ED producing a much better image than the Quattro, It's got me thinking???? Now I've been looking for a variety of APO's and the one that seem's more appealing to me is a TS 115mm Triplet APO F7 Refractor, they look well made but is there anyone who can suggest any makes! Being a keen Newtonian owner, I have to say that the these APO's are something else!! I have 2 images one is the 8" Quattro and there other is the 80mm ED Lunt! So guy's which one is the better image?
  18. I would try the first method first! Than the barlow method!
  19. I have setting circles on my EQ-5 mount! And they are rubbish! They aren't accurate and you need a science degree to work them out! To be honest with you I agree what most of the guy's said, Use star hopping and use good star map that works much better! One thing I found that a Telrad is best thing to use when star hopping! I would highly recomend buying a telrad, they are much better than a finderscope and makes aiming the telescope towards targets much easier! I would go to FLO and get yourself one, Once you got one, you'll see how good it really is!!
  20. That's why I opted to the PDS! The main mirror is moved closer to the secondary on the PDS to allow the DSLR to focus! However have you unscrewed the 1.25" eyepiece adaptor, there is it a T2 thread which allows you to connect the DSLR, that should move the camera closer, to allow it to focus! You'll need a T-ring for the DSLR to able to do this mate!
  21. Thanks RAC! There's some good advice here at least someone can explain and define this a bit more! It all seem's clear that a mono ccd would be a good move when I'm more experienced, However the colour CCD will have to do now for time being! However I was really quite impressed achieving an image like this through my new 80mm F7 ED APO (Reduced down to F5.5 with a TS 0.7x Focal reducer and field flattener) and QHY8L CCD, And I managed a 1Hour 30mins exposures of various 10secs, 30 secs, 120 secs, 300 secs light frames, 15 darks and 15 bais frames, all stacked in Deepsky stacker and final processing with Paint shop PRO X5, to produce this stunning image of M42 Great Orion Nebula, and the Running man Nebula. The image was guided using a 9x50mm finder scope guider (QHY5v) and PHD Guiding software! Again the QHY8L CCD providing that awesome wide field of view with it's big 28.5mm CCD chip! I wish I could image Andromenda Galaxy was high enough in the sky to enable me to image it and see how how the QHY8L performs! Again there's a lot of members under estimate the performance of QHY8L, I know they are Chinese made CCD's but they are very good quality cameras and at a very good price and there's a lot of people say that the QHY8L used to have frosting problems on the chip, but this is been 4 years ago since they were first introduced, I've owned the QHY8L for a year now and I say that they don't frost anymore, that problem is now ironed out!!!
  22. From the album: DSO's

    imaged with my new 80mm Lunt F7 ED APO Refractor with 0.7x focal reducer and field flatenner down to F5.5 and QHY8L CCD, And I managed a 1Hour 30mins exposures of various 10secs, 30 secs, 120 secs, 300 secs light frames, 15 darks and 15 bais frames, all stacked in Deepsky stacker and final processing with Paint shop PRO X5, to produce this stunning image of M42 Great Orion Nebula, and the Running man Nebula

    © M Pyott

  23. Like I said on most of the Astronomy equipment! You're paying more for a brand name! Sorry I had to type this again due to a typing error!!!! :BangHead:
  24. Like I said most of the Astronomy equipment! You're more for the brand name!
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