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Everything posted by spaceboy

  1. I shall give it a go next time I get my 200P out. I think with crystal clear transparent and steady skies my imagination might just be able to see it.....
  2. There is no denying there are those rare nights where you'd be kicking yourself for not having the max magnification your scope can offer but I can say from experience in a few scopes that I rarely achieve good views using more than x166. Yeh sure I can up the mag and get those flitting moments but it gives me eye strain and headaches.
  3. I have a 5mm BST which gives me x180 in my 120ED. The more I use these eyepieces the more I'm impressed by them. They are far from perfect but for the money they really do offer you a lot. That said I don't think there is any beating an ortho for sharp, contrasted, clean planetary observing. If you can get on with the rather small eye lens on the 5mm ortho then I would recommend that over any other affordable eyepiece.
  4. Just a bit of tongue and cheek mate
  5. I'm waiting on Jules to have a go at a 120ED bino scope. I know he's a big fan On a serious note though I had considered this myself with a pair of 120's but I think mounting them would be the big issue. My guess is even with 80ED it pays to have a nice obsy to keep them in Can't wait to see the pics. How have you overcome diopter?
  6. As long as your 100% sure you have collimated the secondary and primary correctly including the depth of the secondary along with correct position of the spider vanes then you can give the focuser a go at collimation. There are 6 screws around the base of the focuser. Manipulate these the same way you do your primary. One locks, one adjusts. Larger is often the adjustment one. If you search sgl there are members who have posted in depth methods of squaring up a focuser using laser collimators bouncing off the back of the ota but I tend to do it by eye myself. It's all on SGL with a quick search but hopefully someone already has the link to hand that helps. HTH
  7. I read microfibre cloth and mirror in the same sentence and cringed but glad to see all went well. Maybe next time ....
  8. Hope you get it sorted in a timely manner mate. Although do you not have a LS50 ? to keep you entertained while it's away. I have been tempted by getting a quark several times but their reputation put me off as I'm sure it has so many others. It's a shame as good examples offer up some superb images.
  9. When you got one of these ......... If
  10. The older "EQ5" which was classed EQ4 had a far more flimsy 1 - 1 1/4" steel tripod (upgrade from aluminium) and plastic leg clamps that held the tripod spreader. This mount will have been offered during the transition period where Helios ceased and Sky-watcher took over. The internals of the mount were also overhauled on the later EQ5 mounts. Usually this was identified by a 1 1/2" stainless steel tripod with Ali tripod spreader / eyepiece tray but there were some known to come with the earlier 1" steel tripod. The easiest way to know if you have the later and better EQ5 or earlier EQ4 is the polar scope holder hole that runs up through the RA axis was a lot smaller on the EQ4 and will not accept the newer polar scopes. If this is the case and you need a polar scope you may have some difficulty as the thinner universal polar scopes used years ago are hard to come by these days. This now leads on to the motors. You can use modern EQ5 motors on the mount https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/enhanced-dual-axis-dc-motor-drives-for-eq-5.html but with out a polar scope you will not get accurate tracking easily. You can roughly PA without a polar scope and use it for visual just fine but it would never be accurate enough for long exposure imaging as it will often requiring slight adjustment every now and again to keep the object in the centred at higher magnifications. For all intense purposes the mount is comparable to an EQ5 and will see you good. You can if you so chose, upgrade the tripod to the later 1 1/2" SS leg version http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-stainless-steel-tripod-175-for-eq5heq5.html which is far more robust. You would need all the components including the longer centre bolt which rarely comes supplied if you decided to buy used. These do come up from time to time on astroboot. HTH
  11. Who needs expensive CCD's when a bit of patience and a keen eye is all that's needed. Your sketching skills get more refined every time mate.
  12. I don't know about the nights but the days have been superb. Thursday in particular I was astonished to be using far higher than usual magnification on the sun with little to none interference from seeing conditions. My PST mod could have easily gone way beyond the available 8mm on the Baader MKIV (x125) Even when I got home later in the day my little 60mm Lunt was happy at x100 and as for my ST120 & wedge I was in to the usually unthought of x200 range while still seeing granulation clearly. I just wish these conditions were more often than they are. It is though comforting to know my skies haven't totally gone to pot as had previously been thought.
  13. What about one that's been flocked? Would this insulate the scope trapping heat?
  14. Actually if memory serves I think it may have been @Stu had troubles with too much tilt on an ERF when doing a mod with his quark ? Hopefully he will be along to put me right if I remembered wrong.
  15. Thanks guys my mind has been put to rest On another note has anyone experienced any adverse effects from using an internal ERF? Thermal currents, ota expanding due to heat, objective getting hot, visual deterioration, paint bubbling, reflectiins etc, etc, etc
  16. I've owned the TMB clones in the past although I think it was a 5 and 4mm I had. I was very pleased with them at the time. I have had and presently own starguiders which are pretty similar in performance if memory serves the clones correct. The reason why I went with the starguiders is they offer 60° fov over 58° and come up used more often so a set can be compiled relatively cheap. To be fair both are good for the money but they won't offer the performance of a more expensive ep, so expect some compromise.
  17. I have one of your mods Mr Drew so I'm pretty sure it's all good there as for using on I put the ep in and spend the rest of the time catching my breath at the views.:D With how hot it has been the past few days I just couldn't help but wonder how durable they are given they are modified beyond their intended uses is all. Spending longer than ever at the ep I just wanted to put my mind at rest. I'm sure Coronado, daystar and lunt test their scopes to destruction, because as you say they are a compensation hungry folk over the pond. Although tbh I did still wonder if even these have a duty cycle of some sort. I'm guessing no such rigorous tests have ever been performed on Ha mods so wanted peoples thoughts on it. I appreciate that mods have been used in hotter climates than ours in the UK but we do seem to get a different kind of heat in the UK. I have spent all day out in the July sun while on holiday in Rhodes and not burnt but an hour under our sun at it's peak has me screaming in pain once I get in the shower. I'm not the first to notice we seem to get a harsher sun in the UK so it cant just be my skin type.
  18. Well I never though I'd be swapping my eyepieces around again after a couple case of ES 82° & 100° eyepieces seeing me good for many years but hey, here is my now downsized and even more budget friendly ep set. At least my wide field M31,36,37,38,44,45, double double, veil, Rosette interests are still covered
  19. @Merlin66 Forgive the confusion. I meant if ITF can fail can so to a D-ERF and ERF ?? They are all basically the same thing aren't they?
  20. I agree but when you consider that mods are done beyond the purpose of the parts involved it makes me wonder has anyone ever done a bench mark test to see if PST mods ever fail ?
  21. So we have had a few scorchers and set for several more so it got me thinking just how long can your solar kit be used to observe the sun for when the days are super hot, clear and the sun is high in the sky?? My reason for asking pertains to solar mods more so than dedicated scopes but I guess there is also a recommended duty cycle on those as well? Are all solar mods 100% safe for long tracked and interval free sessions is I guess what I'm asking. I appreciate that all the parts in a mod are safe for solar observing but how safe are they on days when they are tested to their max? Are the ones where internal rejection filters have been employed over external ones as safe for long durations or is it wise to take 5 for everything to cool onepce in a while? On another note. I recently had to change my rusty ITF on a PST. It is my understanding that this does the same sort of job as an ERF. So is it true that an ERF on PST mods can also become rusty / fail after time? If so do the filters remain safe if they do fail?
  22. Quick look on gong is showing some nice proms for today, if you can manage a gap in the clouds. Looking like the Midlands are going to have to wait till the late afternoon, evening for a break
  23. A valid point. The "solar" one would suit both day and night equally as well. I wouldn't even see any need for it to be reversible. I guess the only down side to having a white hood for night time observing is that you could maybe stand out ??? In a back yard it isn't so much an issue but in a field at a dark site you may feel a little exposed and worry about someone untoward noticing you. I guess this might be the thinking behind it being black but personally I think there is less of a chance of you accidently leaving a white one behind if you did take it off ??
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