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About Revs

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    Sub Dwarf

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  1. OK just confirmed it makes no difference. Tried speed of 40 compared to 80 and they're just the same. So USB speed is sumply to get the transfer done faster. Must have mis-read or mis-understood what I was reading.
  2. I'm probably wrong but I'm sure a read that amp glow was caused during the transfer of data, so the faster you can get that done the less amp glow.
  3. Cheers. Did you spend much time finding a good offset setting for each gain setting or just go for a 'safe' amount for both?
  4. Hi. After some saving I've taken the plunge and purchased a cold CMOS camera, the ZWO ASI294MC Pro. I've got the day off and I'm using this time to collect some dark/bias calibration frames. But I have some questions. I understand that the temperature and gain have to be the same for all frames and that exposure times of the darks and lights needs to match, but... Which of following camera settings used to take darks/bias frames have to match the settings used for light frames... USB speed - My understanding is slower means more amp glow, so will have to be the same, at least on the darks, right..? Offset - do the positions of the peaks of the darks/bias frame have to be in the same place on the histogram as the lights? Any input appreciated also any other tips for a newby more than welcome!
  5. Pretty sure this is a good one..
  6. That has knocked a lot of the medium brightnees stars down a lot though, kinda lost it's twinkle. From what I remember, he selected the brightest areas using a FWHM selection method, deselected the bits he didn't want to effect and feathered the selection that were left. Turn that in to a mask and adjusted the curves, etc. Then blended the layer in using opacity. I'll try and find the vid...
  7. From what I've seen it would be tweaked at any stage of the PP as desired, so probably both. This guy has a lot of good vids.. AstroBackyard.. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLt97PtQt5dJEUdzqgBIJv-xs8anU7F6D- But there are dozens of great astro related channels
  8. It doesn't strike me as an 'issue' as such, more just that the blue ones are the brightest and blow out the most (I'm sure there's a correct term for this but I don't know it), so they do dominate. I'm just getting back in to astro after a long time away and I'm using Photoshop for the first time as of last week. But I've watched a lot of tutorials on YouTube in the last week and am literally just learning about shrinking stars using masks, etc now. So I can't really help much but there are a lot of tutorials and PP walk-throughs on YT. I also picked up the Astro Photography Tool plugin for Ps which does a lot of this using 'actions' in seconds... once you know how to use them
  9. The reason I say that is that the blacks are really black and the stars have less colour than in the first one, suggesting clipping. As you say, maybe half way. But the first one looks good to me BTW I'm not professing to be an expert, I'm still very much learning, especially the PP side.
  10. V1 is very nice but V2, wow that's really nice. So many galaxies, they're everywhere! The colours are lovely, especially the stars. I'm looking on an OLED and the colour balance looks fine to me mate. Though there are a lot of big blue stars in that image and they kinda effect the overall tone. But instead of adjusting the colour I might have a go at tightening up just the big blue ones a touch. It might just make the difference. BTW I'm no expert, just throwing ideas out there On second thoughts maybe a teeeeeeny bit more red..? I'm seeing green as much as blue.
  11. I do prefer a softer image. But I didn't used to so I know where you're coming from
  12. The first one is nice, good colour and detail. If you don't mind me saying; the second one is over-stretched and you've lost detail in both the dark areas and the core/stars. I don't think the extra sharpness gained is worth it. The first looks much more natural imo
  13. Might not be what you intended but it looks gorgeous nonetheless. Good stuff
  14. I've been using this little trusty notebook for over 10 years and I've finally replaced it. Rather than throw it, I'd rather someone got some more use out of it as it's still working fine. It's great for basic mount control and guiding. Battery still lasts really well (8hrs+) and as long as you don't connect to the web it's perfectly fast enough. Original charger included. Specs.. Intel Atom N270 1.6Ghz - 2GB DDR2 - 160GB hard drive - 10.1" 1024x600 LED lit screen - 10/100 LAN - Wifi B/G/N - Bluetooth - SD card slot - Windows 7 Starter (up to date) Software installed.. ASCOM platform 6 - EQmod - Cartes Du Ciel - PHD - SharpCap - QGvideo - PolarFinder - SPC900NC drivers - QHY5 drivers I'm just asking for £20 (no offers) to cover postage/fuel. If you can collect from Huddersfield it's yours free of charge. Payment by PayPal (gift) or balance transfer. Delivery to UK mainland, excluding the more expensive areas.
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