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JimB

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About JimB

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    north hampshire
  1. I am new to imaging. For simplicity I have settled on an ASAIR Pro and a ZWO ASI ASI533MCC colour camera. I power my mount etc from a 13.8V linear power supply. The ASAIR has a nominal supply voltage of 12V, (minimum 11.5V). No maximum voltage is stated. I shall ask ZWO, but in the meantime what do you use to power your ZWO ASAIR and indeed your ZWO camera? and with what results? Has any one used a 13.8 V supply. I would appreciate any insight.
  2. Thanks for the replies. I have fitted it on the slow motion side and it works. It is quite slow taking 8.5 seconds to move 1mm using the fast setting on the manual controller, or 45 seconds on the slow settings. When I get time I will operate via the computer to see how it runs from there. The bearing of the reduction gear is exposed so I will have to find a suitable cover to protect it. I have ordered a pulley and toothed belt so that I can try a belt driven set up. Luckily the pitch of the teeth on the belt match the pitch of the grooves on the coarse knob so the drive should be quite positive. The belt drive would have the advantage that manual focussing can be restored by simply slipping the belt off. Also the drive would be under the focusser instead of projecting out to one side, so would be less susceptible to damage.
  3. I am new to astrophotigraphy. I have bought a ZWO eaf to fit to my Altair astro wave 115ED refractor. The focusser is a rack and pinion type. The EAF should be fitted in place of the coarse focussing knob, however the knob does not have a hole with a grubscrew like the other knobs on the fine focussing side. There is clearly a grub screw in the frame of the mounting just by the coarse knob but I suspect that this is for some other purpose rather than securing the knob. As usual there are no instructions detailing what the various grub screws are for. I don't want tp find out the hard way. It may be that the knob is one piece with the shaft and does not come off. I would appreciate any guidance on what the various screws do, and perhaps some information on wheather it is likely that the knob will not come off from those with experience of focussers in general. If the knob cannot be removed and I fit the motor on to the slow shaft justhow slow will the focusser move? will it be useable? and can the settings in the software be adjusted to increase the drive speed. I would appreciate any advice and help, thanks.
  4. Has anyone fitted a ZWO electronic focuser to an Altair Astro 115 wave series apo with the rack and pinion mounting? I'm thinking of buying one and would like to be sure it will fit first. Many thanks.
  5. I am considering getting an ASIair Pro. At home I use a 13.6V fixed linear power supply with my kit. Has anyone used the ASIair Pro with a 13.6V input. The manufacturers data only lists 12V and a minimum voltage, no maximum being stated. I don't want to buy it and blow it.
  6. I have some fur lined snow boots that are pretty good. Recenly bought some Grubs Frostline 5.0 sub zero field boots which are comfortable and warm, with athin and thick sock combo its like toast. They are wellingtons with a built in thermal break similar to those recommended by Reddoss, however rated to -10c but good enough for here. (Reddoss' boots go to -50c).
  7. I have been toying with the idea of getting one of these too. I'm glad to know it will definitely fit in my Yaris.
  8. If you must clean the mirror use isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. Some suggest a few drops of washing up liquid in the mix as well but avoid those containing lanolin. I use 25/75 mix, (alcohol/water), and pulling medical cotton wool over the surface without applying any pressure. Lastly I rinse with distilled water. Best done outdoors or in a very well ventilated area. Avoid cleaning unless it's really necessary. I hope you enjoy your new scope.
  9. An engineers Vee block is great for this. They can be got second hand from ebay.
  10. Thank you Carastro, I'll bear that in mind when I set mine up.
  11. As no one seems to know I will have to find out the hard way,- just bought one. Maybe I will be able to contribute some help to some one else for a change.
  12. Hello. I am considering getting a QHY Polemaster for my AZ-EQ5 mount. Has any one used this combination and did it work well? Also I have heard that the Polemaster can wash out if light pollution is present, how much of a problem is this? The light pollution is not bad but I have to look over the house to see Polaris and I wonder could overspillfrom it wash out the Polemaster. I would suppose this to in part depend on how wide the Polemasters' field of view is. Any observations and advice would be welcome. Jim
  13. I have been watching the sky glow from Camberley getting worse every year and now the council have installed LED street lights on my road, including one directly outside my house. Just a downward spiral. I did get to see what I was missing whist on a visit to Cork in Ireland. I was staying by the coast in a rural setting when the big storm hit and power was lost over a wide area. We had two clear nights and the sky was breathtaking. It was even difficult to make out some of the constellations in the Milky Way due to the crowds of background stars. Sad that such a view is so rare for us urbanites.
  14. Thanks for the replies, sorry to be so long in acknowledging them but the men with the green gowns and sharp knives got hold of me. As you have had no problems Peter I think I will go with the in situ clean. The gap for the sealant/tape is about half an inch so tape is out. I may yet look at the sealant from the aquarium shop, just in case. Thank you all.
  15. I am about to clean my 16 inch Light bridge mirror, I do it with reluctance but it definitely needs it. I have not as yet removed the mirror from it's cell. Now the mirror is held in place with three clamps to stop it falling forward and is held central by three pieces of quite rigid silicone gel. The gel would need to be cut off to remove the mirror and new gel applied for re-fitment. The gel is more rigid than the type available in DIY shops so I am loath to remove it as a suitable replacement might be hard to find. So the question is is there any good reason preventing the cleaning of the mirror whilst it is still in situ in it's cell? Naturally all would be carefully dried afterwards. I would appreciate some learned opinion.
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