Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mark7331

  1. Hi Stonezafu and welcome to the group
  2. This is really nice. Lots of detail and tiny little round stars. I'm looking forward to the SII channel! Nice one. Mark
  3. I had first light with my new ST80 guide scope last night. I played with the settings and after an hour and a half I had the rig guiding well enough to get 10 minute subs. I think I have some tweaking left to do but I'm happy with it so far. The ST80 is a lot easier to get good guiding from than my EvoStar 120. I just happened to be pointing at the ionization front of the Pelican (IC5070) Nebula while getting the guider going so I thought I'd grab a few subs of it (and have a sleep) This is 180 minutes of Ha in 10 minute subs. Flats & Darks applied. Thanks for looking!
  4. Ah, I see! Er. Not me gov. I was only joking. George is that a 'hot pixie'? If so I'd like to know how to guide by that! Thanks all (for the answers and the giggles). Question answered. Cheers Mark
  5. Hi all, I was wondering how important it is to take darks for the guide camera before guiding/calibration in PHD. I've not used them before but last night, while playing with my new ST80, I decided to press the 'Take Dark' button to see if it made any difference. The display on PHD was certainly clearer afterwards but does it have much effect on guiding? Thanks in advance. Mark
  6. Very nice shot and you've even managed to bag the galaxy NGC6207 (unless I'm mistaken). I'm not sure that your flats have worked either as you appear to have some vignetting and although it can be removed easily enough with software better flats or processing of the flats should take care of it. Also I don't bother with the bias frames as the bias signal is already in the darks. I had a quick play in PixInsight and the vignetting comes out really easily so, as has been said, Gradient Exterminator will do the job. I like this a lot - really nice shot Danny. Mark
  7. I can never get sky flats to work but our best cotton pillow covers work a treat. Looks a bit silly on the scope though... Mark
  8. Mick all you need to do with darks is make sure they're at the same temperature as the lights. The darks are for reducing the thermal noise in your images and not really about hot pixels. They also have nothing to do with the optical path so you can do them, as some do, with your camera in the fridge or a cool room. I have a temperature controlled CCD and I use a library of darks. I take them at set temperatures and use them throughout the year. You can always note the temperature down in the filenames if you're using a DSLR and use them again if you match the temp. Some processing progra
  9. Hello Imarcs and welcome to the group from me
  10. Hi Nick, your guiding looks pretty good now. I think the odd shaped stars round the edges are due to coma. You can use a field flattener to help with it. Here's an SGL thread I found that may help. Nice result. Mark
  11. I think I have to agree with Mick here. I've spent countless hours over the last year processing my data and, to be honest, getting it wrong most of the time. Only now do I just about understand the steps and variations in calibrating, registering and stacking and that's just the start of the process. I agree that it's a complicated area, as Denis says, and maybe part of the problem is that the software producers just don't provide enough documentation (PixInsight for example). So I think that a "how to..." on the basics for the most popular programs (free or not) would give a beginner an r
  12. Oh all right then! I've done a background extraction and a few gentle stretches on the original TIF - it's gentle but the resultant nebula is a little more defined. Along the bottom of the image there are more wisps and with some more data, maybe using slightly longer exposures, I think you'll have a truly amazing image. Cheers Mark
  13. This is a really lovely image and a great result. Also I had a quick play and there's much more data in there. Even stretching your jpg shows up more wisps of red and green nebula in the bottom left of the image as well as the main body. Very nice
  14. Beautiful image! I love both colour and mono. Looks 3D to me - the contrast between the light and deep dark areas of the nebula are amazing. Brilliant. Mark
  15. Nice. You certainly have good round stars there. Just wondered what was the length of the exposure you used?
  16. Very nice image Franck! Is this luminance only and was it shot with the 314? Mark
  17. Me too. Nice framing and background. Looks kind of eerie and distant. Cool image.
  18. 3600 seconds between subs? How many cups of tea is that? I'm still in the 1 cup of tea = 2/3/4 subs league. Seriously though, nice image.
  19. Amazing image. I absolutely love the colours! Nice one
  20. Thanks everyone. I found it a little confusing combining the colour and I've tried lots of ways but I like the way this one turned out. I'm grateful for the input Olly, shaunster and I'll try the combination method you described in PS. I've wondered how to get the Ha and red together effectively so thanks! Mark
  21. Thanks again guys. I've not used it successfully before but then I found a tutorial on the PixInsight website. The key difference for me was to use a starmask on the target image before running the deconvolution. Then the stars don't get mashed up. I used the standard settings without modification. Here's the link to the tutorial. Step 7 Deconvolution:- PixInsight Deconvolution and HDRWaveletTransform: NGC 5189 from Gemini Observatory South
  22. Thanks for the kind comments guys. Olly, I've just used the Ha for luminance through the LRGB Combination tool PixInsight. I wonder should I have combined the red and Ha as the red channel first and then use the Ha on its own as luminance? I'll have a reprocess with your and Toms images in mind
  23. John this is a great shot - I love it. My 2p worth is add more and more data as you've said you plan to. Also, if you don't mind me chipping in, use a few more flats. I do 30 because it gets the noise down to a good level but I realise this may not be practical. For the same reason I use 30 darks. Same caveat. Still, I have to say it looks very good indeed! Mark
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.