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mark7331

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Everything posted by mark7331

  1. I used to own an LVI but changed to a QHY5 with PHP because the LVI just didn't cut it when it came to serious guiding. It was OK but very temperamental and had quite limited control options. After months and months of stressful semi-guiding I switched to the PHP setup and now I can guide without many issues. Just my experience - it could be that I'm just useless at driving an LVI! I thought about using the camera with PHP but the connectors are non-standard so I couldn't get it connected. Hope it helps Mark
  2. Dreamweaver is fine, so are many more free editors such as Eclipse, Bluefish and even notepad. If I were you I'd get some ideas about the layout from existing astro websites and then take a peek at some free template sites such as the OpenSource WebDesign site: Open Source Web Design - Download free web design templates. Your domain is registered at 123-reg and they have many hosting options but beware that the cheapest options don't allow scripts like PHP and some have low bandwidth limits which isn't great for a picture website. Hope that helps. Mark Noooo! :)
  3. mark7331

    A Change

    Hello Peter and welcome to SGL
  4. mark7331

    New starter

    Hi Dunkster and welcome to the group
  5. Hello and welcome to the group
  6. What a brilliant question. I've just realized that I've been being a bit thick again! I've been wondering how to get better guiding from my system and I've just realized that, using EQASCOM with EQMOD, I have a guide rate of 0.1x sidereal as per the tutorial videos I've watched. If I increase this my guiding system will have more influence on the mount and give me more options for better guiding. Obvious huh? Thanks guys. Mark
  7. mark7331

    NGC 7380 - Wizard Nebula

    Amazing image Andy. Totally stunning.
  8. PixInsight aberration spotter shows an artefact in the top left (circular), bottom left (yellow tinted glow), there's a faint meteor trail across from top mid to bottom mid right and another large artefact (possibly halo from another star) to the right edge of the image. It takes a massive stretch to see these though. Otherwise the illumination looks pretty even across the image. Mark
  9. I've now tried this and I have to say it's ugly. Nebulosity responds to clipboard commands but frequently crashes. It's a shame but fundamentally Nebulosity 2 needs a good scripting language. The interface I've build works of a web page, using JavaScript to shove commands on to the clipboard if anyone wants to give it a try. Mark
  10. I thought about using Neby too but since the scripting language doesn't have even the most basic concept of looping you'd have to write the entire capture sequence by hand. However there is a mode where Nebulosity "listens" to the clipboard for any commands prefixed with "/NEB". I wonder could a program written in another language drive it better. I'm going to have a go later and will let you know. Mark
  11. Hi KooKoo. Just saw your question. If you bin x2 you are (effectively) doubling the size of the pixels. So instead of 5.2um your pixel size would be 10.4um for the purpose of the calculation. Are you thinking of binning the chip for guiding? Hope that helps. Mark
  12. Hello Jason and welcome to the group
  13. I hope you guys in it's path stay safe.
  14. John I'm just about to do some mosaics and I'm planning on using EQMosaic. I have an EQDIR for my EQ6 and EQASCOM/EQMosaic are free. The EQDIR will set you back about £45 from FLO but it gives you complete control. You tell the software the size of your chip and it allows you to plan how you'll pan around then actually moves the mount accordingly when you tell it. I use it in conjunction with Cartes Du Ciel star maps program. Just an idea. Mark
  15. I have a 6SE, love it visually and have used it for imaging before I had my newt. You can do deep sky but it requires really, really long exposures to capture anywhere near the detail that a faster scope can do easily and that puts pressure on your mount and guider. I haven't gone down the ED80 route (yet) but went for a newt with a very high quality mirror and love it because I can get good close ups of DSOs. I agree with Stuart and Olly though. If an ED80 comes up grab it. I have a feeling I will before too long Mark.
  16. This is a great shot and one that isn't easy to pull off. Very nice. Mark
  17. Andy that sounds like a plan and I would start with 10% hysteresis too. It's looking a little better weather for this weekend so here's hoping you get a chance to get out there. Let us know how you get on mate. Good luck. Mark
  18. Hi Andy. I don't mind the questions at all. To be honest I am still looking for a definitive procedure to getting PHD/guiding working every time. It should be called "Push Here Dummy (If you have a PHD you stand a chance of getting it working)". Firstly the formula for the min.motion:- I've found a formula to work out the resolution of a camera and scope in arcseconds per pixel. From that you can work out the minimum pixel movement the camera can make out. Here it is:- as/pixel = (206.3 * ccd_pixel_size) / focal_length. The Loadstar has 8.2um * 8.4um pixels and you have a focal length of 210mm so:- (206.3 * 8.2) / 210 = 8.05 as/pixel. We want pixels per arcsecond so I flip it:- 1/8.05 = 0.124 pixels/arcsecond. As PHD wants sub-pixel movements I divide that number by half a pixel:- 0.124 / 2 = 0.06. So as you said 0.05 is just about right. Calibration Step:- I adjust the calibration step according to the declination of the target. I watch how many calibration steps the setting takes and try to get them between 10 and 16 for both EW & NS. My last target was IC10 in Cassiopeia and 3500 wasn't getting good guiding. It was working but the stars weren't great. I've found that rather than tweaking the other settings I play with calibration step first until it's pretty good then smooth out any bumps by fine tuning the other settings. It's a good game this isn't it! Mark
  19. Andy, just a quick thought. Your min motion is way too low. At 0.05 pixels you'll be chasing the seeing all the time. If you're using the SW 80 or the ST102 the lowest setting should be 0.23. I've found the best way to get better guiding is to use the defaults for every thing (apart from min.motion) and adjust the calibration step gradually until the graph and the subs start to look good. My calibration step is 3500 although I set it to 4000 last time I was out and had got 1 perfect 900s sub before the clouds came in. You should be able to guide really well with an exposure length of about 2.5 seconds. Also I would continue to use a slight imbalance as the worm does perform better with a little resistance to push against. Good luck Mark
  20. Sara I wonder if the stars in the bottom left of the image are the same shape as those in the top right. If so then I would suggest that flexure is the problem. My old guide scope was seated in adjustable rings and even with a good graph I had odd shaped stars on short exposures. Once I changed to a fixed guider bolted down the problem went away. Also, and this is a long shot, but even though the graph looks good I've found that it can be misleading sometimes mostly if your calibration step isn't right. Could you post your PHD settings? It also might be worth taking some subs without the flattener to rule it out. Mark
  21. I'd vote for the 314 & filters. It's a lovely camera and, although small, produces wonderful images with very low noise. I bought my 314 last year and I know that it will be part of my imaging system for years to come despite the chip size - I can always do mosaics for the larger targets. While I think Olly is right in suggesting some longer shots to measure your guiding accuracy as far as your flickr shots go your guiding looks good to me. Good luck with your choice. Mark
  22. Well I'm glad you posted this - it's a cracker. Really sharp focus. Brilliant.
  23. Nice shot sir! And I agree it really is a cool object What exposure length and how many subs did you take? I'm assuming this was with the G1? Mark
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