Si W

I've been quite busy over the last 6 weeks since I first posted this blog. I've managed to get hold of a second had PC with a 2.8 GHz processor, and a Gig of RAM from a mate of mine for a good price, what I really wanted it for was it has Windows XP, which is great for most Astronomical software as far as comparability is concerned, as well i managed to get my hands on a small metal Computer desk which was destined for the tip, and fits perfectly in my new observatory. The first job was to get it on my wireless network, the problem i had was with the observatory being all metal, it was drowning out most of the signal from my wireless router in the house, so I went to Maplin and got an antennae style wireless adapter drilled a hole in the side of wooden rail and pushed the antennae though, whipped a bit of silicon around it to water proof it and it works a treat. Once I'd loaded all my Astronomy software/files/picture's etc. I decided to set-up a VNC link between my laptop in the house and PC so I can tap into the observatory PC and control everything including the telescope, I'm using VNC viewer which is free to download off the Net. Next was file sharing over the network so i could move files to and from the laptop and PC over my home network. Once that was done i installed a webcam in the corner of the observatory so i could keep an eye on the telescope from in the house on my laptop. The next purchase was 4 storage box's just to keep everything neat and tidy and out of the way, i have also installed a red low wattage light so not to disrupt my night vision. What i have done just before we had them bad winds a few weeks ago was to fit some G clamps on all 4 corners of the observatory, mainly to secure the roof, but also to keep the local scallies from lifting the roof off and getting in. With the mains to run everything i have used an old plastic drill case to keep the plugs and plug banks dry when the roof is rolled back and the computer supply under the desk but off the ground, and also out of the way so there not a trip hazard at night. The only job now is to run mains underground from the house with a permanent supply, once that's done I can fit an alarm system and use the web cam as a security camera, and that's everything done

At last i have started building my observatory, still loads to do but the main construction is complete. The main part of the observatory was a 7ft x 6ft metal panel shed which i got from Argos for £150, this is sat on a base of 20 20" x 20" flags that i laid back in March giving them time to settle, the problem with flags is water rises between the cracks, so on top of that is a concrete base which the 7ft x 6ft metal panel shed sits on. The biggest problem i had was the overall size of my back garden which is quit small, so i had to do a bit of lateral thinking. i decided on folding stilts so maximising the available space remaining. I have hinged the folding rail to the main rail on the top of the observatory and the legs that support the extended rails fold back up in on them self at the far end of the rail and secured. Once both stilts are extended a cross member is dropped into place across the top of the two rails at the end of the rails so not allowing the legs to spread and the roof to de-rail and even fall off. Another concern i had was i didn't want all of the roof to be supported on the folding rail so i extended the rail on the main observatory by 3 inch which the last caster sits on so the main weight of the roof is evenly distributed across the main observatory rail and the folding rail. The overall build cost me with materials and including the Metal panel shed £300, it took me 10 days to complete, i did loss a couple of days in between due to bad rain, but i got the main piece of work done within 2 weeks which is the time i took off work to do it .

I upgraded my focuser to a Crayford Duel Focuser last year, this is how i did it, you will need to make the hole on the side of the Optical tube assemble bigger, first I removed the rear mirror, after that I put the scope tube on it's side, leave the correction plate ( lens) on the front it will keep the tube ridged, before you start un-screwing the old focuser place a old towel or some material under the focuser and in front of the correction plate (lens) this will first stop the nuts from dropping on the inside of the tube and scratching the mat black paint, and second the nut wont bounce off the tube and scratch the front correction plate. You my need someone to help you with the nuts inside the tube from spinning, they will need to grip the nuts with a small set of long nosed grips/spanner, at this point keep the towel in front of the correction plate just in case they slip and hit the correction plate with the long nosed grips/spanner. Here come's the nervous part, once the old focuser is off you will need to cut the metal on the hole to fit the draw tube of your new focuser (i used some metal cutters), i basically cut 5mm cuts outwards into the side of the hole at 5mm spaces all around the hole where the draw tube will go, once you've done that fold the metal that you have cut inwards (I could of used a drill with a small grinding tool on it but TBH i was scared any vibration my of cracked the correction plate or secondary mirror or if i slipped i could of damaged the main tube, so not recommended), some of the paint will drop off but the towel will catch most of it. Now you have done that you should be able to see the draw tube of your new focuser go throw the hole, you will next need to align the focuser with the secondary mirror, you can do it with line of sight, but a Cheshire Collimation will get it perfect, with a pen mark off the holes that mount the new focuser on the main tube, then drill the fixing holes to the size of the bolts you are using, then you can mount the new focuser, yet again this is where a second pair of hands will help as the nuts will spin again, that's it job done, take the towel out, you will get most of the metal shards out, but i used the hover with a brush end to remove the rest of the bits of metal/paint. You can now put the main mirror back in place, it will be useful before removing it in the first place to mark the tube and the outer black casing of the primary mirror so it goes back in the right position it went in, then all you need to do is collimate the scope. You will also need a 2 ins 45mm extension tube as these focusers are low profile ( there about £16), if you dont fit one you will not get into focus with your eyepieces or a CCD if you have one.