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About joelshort

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    Indiana, USA
  1. I'm selling a 1 year old Moravian G3-16200M Mark II camera. Please note this is the newer Mark II camera with faster downloads (on my NUC computer it was 9s.). Everything is in like new condition. The Moravian G3-16200M MKII has a class 2 chip and the standard cooling. The camera cames with an M48 nose piece (unused), power supply with both USA and European plug, 10ft USB cable and hard case. There is also a 17mm extension that can be used if you purchase separately the larger M68 adapter. There are currently 2 read out lines that completely disappear with active cooling and proper image calibration, as is typical with a class 2 sensor. £2240 PLUS SHIPPING, no fee for paypal. NOTE: ships from USA.
  2. It can't hurt to ask... Perhaps you were able to get an early version ASI2600MC that you'd be willing to sell. Let's talk. Note: ships to USA
  3. I have for sale a Starlight Instruments scope adapter A30-1903-10. This couples a Feathertouch 3" focuser to a Meade 16" SCT. A few tiny nicks but in good condition. £100 shipped. Note: ships from USA Offers welcome
  4. Note: This scope is in the USA, so international shipping may prohibit a sale. However, without the heavy Scopeguard case the shipping cost will be substantially reduced. I can provide a full frame image taken with this scope if anyone is interested. Reduced to £3155 for the complete package. I will consider offers, but this is already close to my bottom price. I’ve decided to sell my Takahashi Epsilon Ɛ-180. The scope and optics are in good cosmetic and optical shape. There are a few minor tool marks around the collimation screws but otherwise no issues. The primary mirror is centered with a Catseye Hotspot. The scope will come with the Takahashi corrector, rings and top plate ($457 add-on), front cover, Scopeguard case ($500 add-on), BT Technologies dovetail bar ($150 add-on) (has a blemish but is super solid), Astrozap dew shield and cap with focus mask ($175 ad-on), Precise Parts Tak corrector to M48 adapter ($110 add-on), the Takahashi collimation tools, an M68x1 male to M54x0.75 female and a M54x0.75 male to 2" compression ring adapter ($100? add-on) (these allow you to use the scope visually with 2" eyepieces.) I replaced the stock focuser (included) with an Optec TCF-Leo focuser with temp probe. With the included scope adapter and Tak corrector adapter this is a $1400 add-on. Total new cost = £5900 All of this for £3155 plus shipping.
  5. Tomato, one thing to also consider is what are your skies like? Will you benefit from larger aperture or are you limited by sky glow? If you have some amount of light pollution I'm not sure that going with a big scope will be as beneficial as from a dark sky. Without any doubt at all, were I making the choice again I would go with the much more robust CFF over a GSO. And that's saying something because I am incredibly cheap. Normally I look for the least expensive thing to get the job done. In this case, the best optics in the world won't work unless they can be carefully tuned mechanically and maintain that careful alignment. This is the difference. The GSO mirrors are fine by all accounts, bu the CFF scope is just so tight and smooth and will keep things in alignment. Once I got the replacement mirrors it literally took me 15min to collimate the scope under the stars. What would you like to see? Equal LUM data from both scopes?
  6. For this image the CFF/16200 was 0.61 arcs/px and the SV80ST/QHY163 was 1.62 arcs/px. Once I get the system all tuned up I plan to use the CFF at f/6, which will give me an image scale of 0.81"/px.
  7. I am extremely pleased to report that a plan I put in place 1 year ago, to have a dual scope/camera imaging rig, has finally come together and I am very, very pleased with the initial results. It all began last November as I was looking for a longer focal length scope in order to image more galaxies and smaller objects, and given my sky conditions and mount capacity I felt that a 10" RC was best suited for my needs. I settled on a CFF250RC, which I finally received several weeks ago. Shortly after ordering the CFF last December I began to see the benefits of CMOS cameras that thrive on many short exposures, specifically as it relates to dual scope imaging. Dual scope imaging carries with it several inherent problems, one of the largest being differential flexure between the scopes. This is particularly true when using two of the exact same scopes that both need to be pointed at exactly the same position in the sky. This leads to another large problem with dual scopes, needing to align those two scopes precisely. So I began to think about a dual scope/camera rig that does not use the same scopes. Long story short, I paired my SV80ST with a QHY163M and the CFF with a 16200 camera. Since the SV80ST/QHY163M has about twice the FOV and image scale, I don't have to worry too much about exactly aligning the scopes to the same position in the sky. I just clamped the SV80ST on top of the CFF and hoped alignment was good enough. I did need to shim one scope ring to move the focuser end of the SV80ST up a little, and I also needed to shift the dovetail plate slightly laterally in one direction, but the star alignment between the scopes is "good enough" and I didn't have to bother with some kind of X/Y positioning plate. Also, since the QHY163M is taking short exposures it avoids differential flexure or polar misalignment problems that would lead to star rotation etc that would happen with longer exposures. So while the CFF/16200 is taking 10min LUM subs, the SV80ST/QHY163 is taking 3min RGB subs. So on average I get an RGB image for every LUM image. I really don't have the knowledge to professionally plan all this out. In fact, a few people kindly advised me to reconsider, or at least warned me about what I was in for. grin.gif But really, with the CMOS camera it was easy. I just bolted everything together and hoped for the best, and I'm pretty pleased with things so far. As a first test, I had the CFF scope at f/8 (in normal practice I will probably keep it at f/6). I chose NGC891. When I began this I wasn't really expecting an image to come out of it as I was just testing things out, but the tests went well so I kept getting data. The really cool thing....I got most of the 17.5hrs of data in ONE NIGHT. Getting 10hrs of LUM data really helps smooth things out and I didn't do ANY noise reduction on the LUM data. The RGB was of course more noisy and I was somewhat aggressive with noise reduction in the RGB, but that's the beauty of LRGB imaging. Below is a pic of my imaging rig. And here is NGC891 [URL=http://buckeyestargazer.net/Pages/Galaxies/NGC891.php][/URL]
  8. Hello all, I'm new to this forum and thought I'd introduce myself with an image I recently took, a 2 panel mosaic of vdB 7, 8 and 9. I took this image at my first star party back in September. [URL=http://www.buckeyestargazer.net/Pages/Nebulae/vdB7-9.php][/URL]
  9. Very nice! I really like the new ArcsinStretch too. It works really well on RGB data.
  10. I'm taking a slightly different track with a dual imaging setup. I am pairing a CFF 250 RC (working at f/6) with a Stellarvue SV80ST f/6. The plan is to capture LUM data with the CFF and lower resolution RGB with the 80mm. The image scale of the CFF is 0.82" and the image scale of the 80mm will be 1.61". Since the effective FOV of the 80mm scope is about 1/3 to 1/2 larger than the CFF, I'm not worried about the scopes being super accurately aligned. My imaging cameras are a Moravian G3-16200M and QHY163M. What makes this possible is the advent of CMOS camras that allow for (and some would say need) shorter exposures, which will avoid many of the issues involving flexure between the scopes. And in one 10min LUM image with the RC I can get 1 each of RGB at 3min each. I'm getting this set up soon and hopefully in another month I'll have an image to show for it!
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