Chandra

Welcome!! As you understand, I can't help you decide which local group to be part of, but it is an excellent decision to join one to share, experience and learn....

I suppose it may depend on the build quality of the cell holding the primary mirror and also how tight the locking knobs are, but I think it's better not to tight them too much in order to avoid putting stress on the mirror (which may lead to introducing additional aberrations), especially when it is subjected to large thermal gradients.

It is always difficult to decide to buy a first instrument for observing the sky, especially when we start from zero experience with them. For this reason, it is usually recommended to start by attending star parties, where you begin to gain field experience alongside more experienced observers, and you have the opportunity to learn about and visualize through different optical designs. On the other hand there are the children. I believe that most of us here show interest in astronomy at a very early age, which proves that this can be a hobby that lasts... In any case, curiosity in children is something common and extensive, and it does not mean that as they grow they will keep alive or cultivate all the concerns previously shown, but astronomical observation is so stimulating, deep and I would say even formative of the spirit, that it is always worth trying to feed and encourage in children their natural curiosity. From here, I allow myself to list some aspects that I think you should consider, apart from all those mentioned by our fellows. - There is no such thing as a "perfect observation instrument." With the use of any of them you will find that there are advantages and disadvantages, but you must consider that the one you decide on, as long as it meets minimum quality standards, has the potential to provide you and your child with knowledge and satisfaction. In this sense, remind you of the motto of every stargazer that the best observing instrument is not the most expensive, nor the largest, nor the most sophisticated, but rather the one that is used the most. - You should always mainly consider the conditions of what will be your usual place of observation: its width, thermal gradient at nights, humidity, time for dedication, quality of the sky, accessibility to the place, etc. All these factors are parameters that play a little more in favor or against the size of the configurations and optical designs. Generally, telescopes on AZ mounts with an aperture of up to 150mm are the best adaptable to any variable of the aforementioned parameters. Binoculars are also an option but always on a mounting; It must be taken into consideration that observation with them from about 45º above the horizon, if they are not angled (and that makes them very expensive), is somewhat uncomfortable due to the position of the neck. - AZ GoTo mounts are ideal for urban observers who do not have much time, or who cannot dedicate it due to weather conditions. You have been told that when there are children, time to locate objects is crucial, and it is true, children are not usually characterized by their patience. In this sense, refractors (3" to 4", for example) with medium focal ratios (F/6 to F/8) are ideal for handling in these conditions, due to their short acclimatization time and good performance on low-end mounts. The mount that has already been mentioned AZGTi is very interesting at a very reasonable price, but you should keep in mind that when you use it manually it does not have slow motion controls, which can make it difficult to use in that mode. Automatic tracking of objects is also highly advisable when observing with more people. The option of Star Sense (Push To) technology may also be interesting, although in this case the tracking must be done manually. - The planets usually look small with respect to the field of view, since only on nights with good seeing (which are normally less than we would like), and as long as the optics allow it, is it possible to exceed 150x with an acceptable viewing quality. Think that you can already obtain this increase in decent conditions with an aperture of 80-90mm. The nebulae also do not present the colors of the photographs, the sky in visual astronomy is basically black and white and only with huge apertures (from 18") under pristine skies is it possible to begin to intuit colors in the gas and dust clouds. We must be very aware of what and how things look through amateur instruments, however, the aperture is what primarily determines the level of detail visible in objects. - Finally. There has been talk of EAA. It is a fairly new discipline that has been implemented in parallel with the development of CMOS and CCD sensors, I would say that it is complementary to visual observation, but does not replace it. Over time I think it is an interesting option for any observer, especially urban or semi-urban, but I would not recommend someone who is starting out to do it through the EAA, since this involves software programs (Sharpcap or Firecapture), computer, camera, use of Barlow, maybe flip mirror, if you want to achieve more precise focus, power supply, cables... The setup gets a little complicated.

Welcome! I'm sure you'll find many answers to your questions in the Beginners threads, and if not, you can always start a new discussion...

Welcome to SGL! Help is guaranteed, as for the black hole in your wallet, it may not be entirely inevitable, take it step by step and enjoying every moment...😉

The main advice for anyone who receives a reflector, whether new or used, and before starting to loosen any screws or move any mirror, is to check the alignment status of the optics. I also believe that this verification is best done with Cheshire and a collimation cap, since the laser, even when collimated, will not give all the information about the optimal performance of the tube. Once the check is done, it will then be decided what needs to be touched. If the figure of the secondary mirror is circular and concentric with respect to the focusing tube, and the contour of the reflection of the primary mirror in it is also concentric, it will not be necessary to touch the secondary mirror and we will save ourselves a lot of work. All these phases of the alignment are the most complicated but, fortunately, also the most durable... On the other hand, the final phase, the alignment of the primary mirror, is the simplest, but also the one that can most easily be lost when transporting or moving the tube. This is where I think using a well collimated laser can be most useful, although the Cheshire or even the collimation cap also serves the purpose. I agree with the view that delivery to the customer of a new tube with the correct secondary settings should be guaranteed.

Santa here is called "Papa Noel", and he left little interesting things... A lunar calendar for 2024 that includes different ephemeris such as conjunctions, eclipses, etc. A 2" SVBony 34mm and 72º AFOV eyepiece (which is actually 32mm and 70º, a clone of the Orion Q70), this was a self-gift. And a very interesting field guide to deep sky objects, which from my city Bortle 7 it will help me... not much... but very grateful...

Well... It seems we are sharing same skies... Actually, this crystal ball was given to me on my birthday...

To my knowledge, motorized AZ mounts automatically perform tracking the target once it has been reached and centered in the field of view (always use an eyepiece that gives you a wide field of view, like your 25mm). With the command you can move the mount at will at different speeds with the directional arrows, but it should do the tracking, normally there is a sidereal, lunar and solar tracking mode (this one must be activated sometimes, for safety). If it is not tracking after pointing an object, maybe you have it disabled ("no tracking" option), or maybe you need to activate the "point and track" option... These are just suggestions because each SynScan console model is a little particular... Clear skys and happy 2024!

Welcome you! In the Getting Started General Help and Advice threads you will surely be able to find good advice on deciding on a entry level kit and keep sharing sky observation with your child, and if you need help, be sure to ask your questions, you already know that there are many friendly fellow here who will gladly assist you.

In my case I think that the Astro Baby guide is very correct, in fact it is the one I used in the first collimation of my Newton F/5.9. In stage 2 (alignment of the secondary mirror with the focuser tube) the important thing is that the figure of the secondary mirror with respect to the circle of the focusing tube, and that of the reflection of the primary mirror in the secondary mirror with respect to its edge, are concentric circles, as indicated by @Spile in the guide he shares. In this phase 2 is when you work with the displacement and inclination in its different axes of the secondary (the primary is not touched in this phase, and more than its center what matters is its edge and the clips that hold it). Once a reasonably correct figure is achieved and the screws are adjusted, under normal conditions we can forget about this collimation phase for a long time. Phase 3 is when the primary mirror must be aligned to the secondary mirror using Chesire, although the use of the perforated cover is also sufficient. In fact, in most Chesire it is possible to unscrew the eyepiece to screw it into a 1.25" pitch barrel, obtaining a perfect collimation cap. On the other hand, a new telescope should not arrive in a poor state of collimation, so it would almost be better not to touch the secondary (phase 2) at the outset, and to verify if, in fact, the figures are circular and concentric. We would then go directly to phase 3. If we do have to proceed to check the alignment from the beginning, we must be patient, the first collimation is always complicated and we have to dedicate a lot of time to it, it is very important to go step by step and verify what is being done and if it is being done well. But for visual observation, "perfect" collimation is not necessary, so it is not advisable to fall into the obsession of achieving it either. You have to consider that there are many parameters that can make collimation NOT "perfect", and in entry level or budget telescopes the margin of error for these parameters is greater, and sometimes we simply cannot control them. A star test that offers a reasonable result is a good indication that your optical tube is working fine. All pictures have been taken during collimation processes with my Newton.

Excellent report!! Certainly the NEB is a source of surprises and changing details...

I'm glad the mount is working fine. It is important that you try to make an adequate alignment before observing, normally it is enough to do it with three bright stars/objects that the same software suggests you, but if it is not enough you can repeat the process again with three different objects. If you get a proper setup, the goto will have greater precision and more precise tracking it will give you. It will help you to ensure that the mount is as level as possible with the horizon. In my case I use an electronic level, since the floors of terraces, balconies, gardens, etc. may be slightly inclined. I think that in the economical segment of AZ Goto mounts, only the one linked below allows you to move it manually (also without losing its alignment). In any case, like the rest of the motorized azimuthal mounts, it is not really designed to be used manually, but rather through a controller connected to it or by the application on your smartphone. It would be nice if one day they designed a versatile AZ mount that could be used either in manual mode or in GoTo mode as it suited us. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/computerised-goto-astronomy-mounts/sky-watcher-az-gti-wifi-alt-az-mount-tripod.html Good luck and clear skies!

It is normal to see Jupiter with these tones, but of course you should be able to clearly differentiate its equatorial belts of a darker tone, and at least glimpse large formations like the GRS when it is transiting near the meridian... Of course, with your telescope it is possible to differentiate more fine details, but they already require good seeing conditions. The fact that the stars you observe are pulsating precisely indicates inadequate atmospheric conditions, more inadequate the larger the twinkl is. I don't know what magnification you are observing the stars at, but remember that the higher the magnification, the more difficult it is to get proper focus, and therefore sharpened stars. Furthermore, since they are such bright stars (Sirius, Betelgeuse, it would also be applicable to Rigel, Capella, etc.), beyond inadequate seeing, their own flash in the eyepiece optics will make it difficult for you to see them as points. On the other hand, and on nights with very good seeing, with exit pupils of around 1mm (which means around 130x for your telescope) you will be able to see the diffraction pattern of the stars, since you will be moving close to the resolution limit of your telescope, you will not see them, therefore, as points. If you want to make this observation, however, avoid very bright stars, but also dim stars. I believe that the eyepieces provide the bluish chromatic effect that you see in shiny objects. If you see a bluish stripe and a red stripe at the opposite end of the light source, then it may already be due to an atmospheric refraction effect; you are observing the object when it is still too low above the horizon. As for what you describe about the mount, that is called backlash, it is a type of effect in the form of unwanted movement that is produced by looseness in poorly adjusted or already very worn mounts. It seems to me from the picture you did share that your mount is a GoTo similar to the Star Discovery... Before considering purchasing another mount I think it is worth checking the axles and trying to adjust the crowns, if that is the problem. Maybe someone here can give you some more specific advice on the matter, in my case I have never disassembled and adjusted motorized axles.

I think the 5mm BST Starguider I told you about in my previous post will give you excellent performance in your setup if atmospheric conditions allow it. If you want to achieve higher magnifications, in a moderate price range you can opt for the 4.5mm TMB Planetary II (144x), the 4mm SW UWA or TMB (162x), or the 3.2mm BST or TMB (203x). Personally I would not look any further for your setup, and the last one basically for Moon and in a good night. So you must consider several aspects: 1. The higher the magnification, the less light the image you view transmits (this happens because what is known as the exit pupil is reduced). This is really not so important when observing bright objects like Jupiter or the Moon. 2. The higher the magnification, the more difficult it is to get a proper focus point for a sharp vision. Double speed focusers help in this sense. The focuser that mounts your tube does not have double speed. 3. The higher the magnification, the greater the optical demands on the eyepieces, which means that to get decent views the more money you have to invest. I think the ones I suggest would fall within an acceptable minimum. 4. The higher the magnification, the more important is the most precise collimation possible. Let's say that observation at low or medium magnification is more tolerant of inaccurate collimation states. Especially for someone with little practice, it can be very difficult to achieve excellent collimation at f/5. 5. As our colleague tells you, the more magnification you are observing, the more magnified the small vibrations of your support will also be. Any small knock on the tube can be very annoying at high magnification, especially if the mount is not capable of attenuating it properly. With your setup, I think this should be highly considered. Considering these aspects, at least initially I would not worry about observing with your telescope at more than 150x. On the other hand, most of the time it will be the seeing conditions that will limit your observation, and many times not even with large telescopes you can really observe very well at more than 120x. The use of a Barlow will prevent you from having to use eyepieces with very low focal lengths to achieve high magnifications, and it also generally somewhat improves the sometimes low eye relief of this type of eyepieces. But if you purchase one, you should still ensure that it is of a minimum of optical quality in order to not introduce more aberrations into the system. It's true that nowadays there are Barlows worth around 50 pounds, but, honestly, I don't think you'll need it for your setup. As for chromatic aberration, rest assured that it is not coming from your tube (mirrors do not generate chromaticism) but from the eyepiece you are using, which should be a Kellner or perhaps a modified achromat, they are very basic eyepieces that usually come with entrey level kits. That does not mean that other better eyepieces do not also provide some CA, but at least in the center of the field it should be practically imperceptible on a reflector.