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Posts posted by Pitch Black Skies
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Anybody?
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6 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:
It'll get you going but it lacks a bit of detail.
It does.
Specifically the one I would like to know about 😃
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38 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:
It would be nice if there was some sort of manual for the App! 🤣😂
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50 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:
WB is normally White Balance, so maybe White Balance (Red Channel) & White Balance (Blue Channel)?
Indeed, just no idea what the values should be. I thought someone might have chimed in by now. I'm beginning to think nobody really knows. I've tried searching online. Can't really find anything about it.
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7 minutes ago, Spile said:
That red circle showing ideal placement in my post show the same but I would not worry about correcting it.
I'd correct it.
Just for peace of mind if anything 😄
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Just now, themcfallguy said:
@Pitch Black Skies the video is video mode.
the gain is 10, anything higher goes bright outline.
exposure attempted was 1 sec and 5 sec.Exposure is too long.
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That isn't in Live Video..
If it's still the same after switching to Live Video, put the dust protector on and see if the image turns black.
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23 minutes ago, Kon said:
Thanks, it will be on my to-do list for the next cloudy night
Won't be long 😄
I have that same Cheshire sightube you have. It's a great piece.
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It looks like the secondary could move just a tad more towards the primary.
Other than that, it's an excellent job mate 👏
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Have you tried bringing down the gain?
Also, make sure it is in fact directed at the rooftop and not slightly above it looking at the sky.
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I set the gain to unity and left WB (B) and WB (R) at 50, there doesn't seem to be an automatic setting for them. Not sure if that was correct or not. I never checked the histogram.
I adjusted the exposure until it looked bright on my screen.
If I reduced the exposure time, would that have given me more FPS?
Anyway this is what I managed ⬇️
It's okay, not overly impressed with it. It's a mosaic.
I might try my main cam next as a comparison. That can fit the whole disc in it's FOV. I will try a longer video and stack a small percentage.
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2 hours ago, Spile said:
See https://astro.catshill.com/collimation-guide/
I start with getting offset right so a=b and then correct tilt and rotation.
Recheck the steps 1-3 and repeat the rotation/tilt corrections until the following reflections are as concentric as you can get them:1) Bottom edge of the sight tube,
2) the actual edge of the secondary mirror and
3) the reflected edge of the primary mirror.Thanks mate, I'm familiar with the process but I am asking Mr Spock as just wondering how he does it with the laser.
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On 28/12/2021 at 13:54, Mr Spock said:
No collimator gets it exactly right. You always need to finish with a star test. I use a laser as it gets it close enough, then finish with a star test.
How do you align the secondary under the focuser?
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For extra peace of mind and security. Post what you think you would like to buy in this thread for feedback.
Equipment is generally well looked after but as with buying anything online you need to have your wits about you. Not so long ago, a chap was scammed here on SGL but it was dealt with very well.
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Hi Laurance,
I've had two lasers, the cats absolutely love them. One of them literally tried to run up my wall after the dot one night, the other stated doing a moonwalk across the kitchen floor trying to get the dot between her hind paws.
The thing with lasers is that they can't tell if the secondary is rotated correctly. Well that and all the other things such as they need to be sat squarely in the focuser, need collimating themselves, etc.
I recommend a Rigel Aline Collimation Cap and a premium Cheshire sightube.
Be sure to check out and maybe follow this thread also for 130P-DS owners.
Best of luck
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Oh right, that's interesting. I was considering upgrading my HEQ5 with the Rowan belt mod but not sure if it really needs it.
Just make sure you remove any backlash before your test for an accurate comparison.
If it's fine without it, you could sell it on. A handy £100 or so 🙂
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Congratulations on acquiring an EQ6.
I'd say if you're guiding and have carefully removed any backlash, the difference would be negligible.
However, it will be much quieter once upgraded and you won't have to worry about backlash/slack in that area of the mount for quite some time.
I'd say do it.
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6 hours ago, CraigD1986 said:
Both cameras so seem to have pretty low resolution (9MP and 12MP) compared to my 5D Mk IV at 30MP. Should this concern me?
I think it will only be a concern if you want very large prints of your images.
As you probably already know the general recommendation for printing is 300ppi (pixels per inch). I can print 12"×12" which is about 250ppi and the image still looks quite resolved up close.
It might be worth sending FLO a quick email asking them which one they would recommend. There are very helpful.
ASI533MC-Pro Vs ASI224MC
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
What is the benefit of using the 224 for lucky imaging over the 533?
I know the 224 has a higher frame rate due to the lower resolution, but couldn't I just reduce the resolution through the imaging acquisition software (Sharpcap) to achieve a similar frame rate?