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rsarwar

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  1. you can use any camera that works on linux/rpi and can be opened using opencv in python. all that needs doing is changing the "video_idx" here so that opencv can open it. the reason for choosing the camera i chose is because having the ability to change focus is critical to ensure smooth calibration without needing to touch the camera and move it.
  2. Should be fairly straight forward as it is using opencv. Here is how https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.tutorialkart.com/opencv/python/opencv-python-resize-image.amp/ 1.Multiply with scaler to resize resolution https://github.com/rsarwar87/pyReflectorCollimator/blob/master/pyCameraController.py#L63-L69 2. Resize frame by the same scalar after this line https://github.com/rsarwar87/pyReflectorCollimator/blob/master/pyCameraWindow.py#L53 ret, frame = self.cc.vid.read()
  3. Hi it was written to work from linux, but will work on rpi4. May also work on wsl.
  4. 3x drizzle integratio with almost 9 hours of data from brottle 6. really nice quality this scope i find ! https://www.astrobin.com/jjohdk/
  5. Got the EL panels. Very flat. The lines appear only with shutter speed less than 1/250. The examples is with 1/4000. Will need to be dimmed, I am adding a opal acrylic which should reduce brightness. Will see what happens with lower voltage Edit-- lowered voltage from 12 v to 5v, and the brightness scales accordingly. Power draw drops from 1.5 w to 0.2 w.
  6. Hi. I am in the process of making one as well. For led strip I am using these 13cm Diameter Backlight Panel https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMybhPc It means there is an inverter I have to include along with a rpi pico to control it, but the light from it is well balanced I think.... Have to confirm, item still on its way. Still going to use a defuse to mitigate hots tops or lines
  7. i think it is brilliant. you have control over how much noise you want to remove and if you have a GPU, it takes about 15 sec vs 1 hr on Ez Denoise. Certainly better results compared to EzDenoise. have not used topaz denoise as it does not run on linux..
  8. 4 x 1 mossaic. first time i did such a big one. almost 40 hours of data using Ha 3.5 from Baader and O/S 6n from astronomik + qhy256M. could not normalize the background evenly unfortunately. https://www.astrobin.com/cz268t/?utm_source=astrobin&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=notification&from_user=27646
  9. yes, looking forward your review of the CC using your APS-C. although i believe the size of the image circle is also dependent on the size of the secondary mirror, which is small for 130 pds. 75 mm is ideal for me given my odd setup (need 68 mm). Why are we stuck with this 55mm non-sense any way!
  10. excellent review chris! do we know what the image circle is of the CC with this scope - maybe a flat image with an APSC or full frame camera. the product page on FLO only states 44 mm clear apparture. also curious if it will work with a 130 pds - 5.5F seems slow in modern days, but that is not too bad. but will make my 130pds usable again as i need 68 mm of backfocus when using my OAG
  11. May no t be exactly relavent, but i thought i would share some my of recent findings I recently developed a fault on my QHY268M which meant it did not get detected by my PC/RPI4. i had the camera partially disassembled before sending it in for a replacement (Modern astronomy has been really helpful is mitigating the problem). However based on what i could see, the camera USB3 port is actually not isolated and shares the ground plane with the main power source. the power brick it comes with is fairly good, and seems to have proper grounding. however, in most cases, PI4/mount/usb hub power bricks are not, so there can be AC ground loop between the two device through the USB cable. since we are running the devices in outdoor settings, AC loop issues will be common if poor quality power bricks are used. this means, large current draw through the USB cable (on a bad day, as much as a few amps) which can potentially damage the camera and, more commonly make the camera USB link unstable. In my opinion, the only way to solve it properly is to use a single good quality power adaptor with proper isolation to power both camera and all the other device. we are talking about something like a pegasus power box. ASI air is inadequite for qhy268m power requirements. alternatively use a single battery to power everything. if you have to use multiple power bricks, one has to make sure all the device have the same grounding and use good quality power supply with proper isolation and grounding.
  12. I think i managed to work out a "proper" way of collimating a RC. The idea is to 1. make the secondary and the primary coaxial without the focuser attached. 2. add M90 tilt plate and the focuser and then by only adjust the collimation on the tilt plate to bring the focuser and the secondary coaxial. first the first one, i had to 3d print a M90 to M48 thread. The adator was made such that it uses the pressure lock ring to centre the adaptor. and the on the M48 thread, screw in the electric collimator. then reiterate the collimation on the secondary and primary mirrors to get it as close as possible. then take it off, put the tilt ring and the focuser and then the electric collimator and then adjust the tilt plate to recollimate. I dont see a point of perfectly dialing in the screws, but as close to perfect is good enough, as this will need to be readjusted using a artifitial star. I dont have one so i did it under the stars, but forgot to take images to document it. however, the above process resulted in near perfect collimation and needed on mirror adjustment.
  13. this is a crop of main image - no drizzle applied, just a crop and a resample to a higher resolution. really happy with the level of details. 12.5 hour integration
  14. still a work in process. but quite happy with the SM90 + TSFLAT2. will do the horse and orion mosaic with the 0.8x flattener after this and see how that goes [URL=https://astrob.in/jl4k1w/0/]https://astrob.in/jl4k1w/0/rawthumb/regular/get.jpg?insecure[/URL]
  15. good luck with the linux. i would recommend getting a rpi3/4 for testing or install ubuntu as dual boot. i am not sure if all USB devices will work properly over VM. maybe it will. linux distros has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone compared to 15 years ago or more. to me it makes little sense to dedicate a laptop/pc in the observator when it can be done with rpi remotely. and if you are set up in the backyard without a fixed observatory. it even less sense to me. wifi and ethernet is everywhere in our home, why not take advantage of IoT compliant devices . they have more power and stable compared to a what they were even 3 years ago.
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