Grant93

Very nice! My plan was some clusters during this full moon.. if these clouds ever clear..

On 31/10/2021 at 16:58, Username556 said:

Would you say this picture is accurate to what you would see in person? 

You will never resolve any sort of color whilst looking at the milkyway with your naked eyes, only cameras pick up color. From my experience of a bortle 2, it's very clearly there, and its just like a metallic effect across the sky. So from the picture you posted, imagine slightly less detail, and no color, just a metallic effect, well worth travelling out to see it. I would do it every week if I could. Remember if you ever do travel to a site like that, keep your eyes out for some naked eye DSOs. Double cluster, andromeda etc 😀. The summer core is no longer visible, but the milkyway still travels up through Cygnus and Cassiopeia too.

Why were you told to expect fat bloated stars? Is it the certain refractor you're using or refractors in general bloat stars more than others? Jw 😀 

The sheer amount of galaxys in this is mind boggling, the more you look the more you see!

15 hours ago, alacant said:

Yeah, that's much better. 

Did you try the SVDecon [1] this time? Try selecting non saturated stars against a dark-ish background. Ten or so from random but evenly spaced areas of the image is all you need. You could also try SuperStructure darken at about 30 or so %.

Cheers

[1] Not sure 512 has it. 518 though definitely does.

Yes I did use SVDecon. But admittedly just used the standard, didnt change anything, I'll have to try that next time. I did use SuperStructure, I don't think I darkened it, but I lowered 'strength' (I think?) to about 40%, as 100% just took away too much of the sharpness.

Now I just need to learn how to use that NBAccent module .

10 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

My effort using 1.8.519 ,win10

Nice effort, I like the color of the nebulosity in this!

I wouldn't try to answer that last question as I am a newbie to this myself, I have had pictures where walking noise is far more evident than others, for no known reason to myself. I'm just commenting to say these are some nice images!

What do you use to process? Can't wait to see your m33 😀

Grant

Nice picture!

I also own a SGP, and I also did this once with a 600d and SMYG 135mm Lens, with 10 seconds between exposures. I also only did it every 4-5 frames, and probably every 15 frames I would fiddle with the DEC bracket a bit (slightly loosen one side and tighten the other), so you're not only dithering in RA but DEC also. You will find the 10 or 15 seconds between frames eats up your imaging time massively, when you've been sitting out for 4 hours but got 3 hours 15mins of data (but very worth it if you're willing to do it).

However, in this weather I cannot be doing with sitting out there for hours on end haha (unless I'm out with the binos or dob🤓). I would rather set up, spend 15 minutes making sure its running ok, then go and sit inside where I can see the rig running on my backgarden from the patio door, whilst watching TV 😅. But the sad thing is, when you have done it once, and you see the difference, it means more money to be spent on a mini PC and guiding set up to be able to automatically dither 🥶 Which I am planning on making before christmas 😅.

But to answer your question: Yes 15 seconds should be plenty 😃.

Good luck & wrap up warm

Grant

This time I used that newer StarTools software, the bleeding edge version - v1.8.512 (I noticed you have .518, so havent updated it fully). And got a result much closer to what I am happy with and to what I wanted. Not so disappointed with the stars in this one, and much sharper I think even though I binned more. Forgot I had the bleeding edge version, definitely my go to version now. Let me know what you think .

17 hours ago, alacant said:

JTOL and I doubt it, but I wonder if this has anything to do with OS? We're on Kubuntu 20.04.3. I know there are a few other st users on the forum @almcl, @bottletopburly but I don't know which they use. I've no experience of st on mac or windows and only a few pokes around on android.

I'm on Windows 10. Looked into Siril this morning, will give it a go stacking there also, after I learn how to do it..

Found that startools log, in a notepad with about 10 miles worth of scrolling 😅

1 hour ago, alacant said:

Nice data. There is some lovely detail emerging. StarTools v1.8.518

I think the noise is under control. All I did was set a 2px NR after tracking had been turned off. TBH, I don't think it needs any. 

Cheers

Always so impressed with what you can do in StarTools.. Everything is so much sharper than mine. I need more practice

Cheers

9 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

I know you're working with StarTools but I had some time to play so I had a go with your data in PixInsight, just as a comparison.

I used as much of the image as I could, even with the rotation, and came up with this:

 

You did a much better job of the stars than I did! Did you feel there was a lot of noise to deal with?

Going to get a mini PC within the next month for unguided dithering (I think this is possible?), then within the next few months I'll get a guiding set up to do guiding and guided dithering which should help me produce clearer sharper pictures I would imagine.

20 minutes ago, alacant said:

No idea. Why did you remove it?

What will help with the halos is careful choice of the second AutoDev ROI, including the selection I already indicated.

If that's not what you're after, you then have st's Deconvolution (use the manual non saturated star selection) and as a final line of defence, the Shrink module.

Post your data if you like.

Cheers

 

I removed it because it looked horrible after processing.. an enhanced version of the rest.

Ah I see, I'll try that with the ROI next time! Thank you!

Heres the data here you will see the massive accidental rotation, dont laugh 😅

6 Hour NAN2.TIF

5 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

You still can and should use flat frames. Just take a set for each night. Pre-process each session's light frames with their respective flats. Then register them. Stack as normal.

Stars: make sure the second AutoDev includes at least one saturated star, but don't forget to leave some room for the fainter stuff.

Nice image.

HTH

Yeah thats the trouble, I had a set of flats for one night, without realising it I rotated my camera on the second night, and tried reusing flats - The first stack with the flats didnt go well, had a very bright corner 😪

I did have the Xi Cygni in my picture, I cropped it out at the end, why will this help with the halos?

Going to keep having a go anyway, will try stacking in Siril also, Forgot about that until this morning!

Thanks for the advice

Grant

5 hours ago, PeterCPC said:

Re halos - is your 600d fully modded? i.e. does it still have some UV filtering? Dithering will help with the noise as you rightly say.

Just the IR filter has been removed

Hello everyone!

I know I keep revisiting this target, but I feel its necessary since it helps see any progress whilst being new to the hobby. Although probably for the last time this year, since it won't be in a very good place in a month or so time.

By far the most time I've spent on a target, Last one was my heart and double cluster at 3 hours 30 minutes or so, this one being 6 hours. Difference is I stood out there manually dithering the image for 3 hours, but with this one no dithering has been done, and you can definitely tell - can't wait until I finally invest in a guiding set up and can auto dither. Theres a horrible halo around stars which for the life of me I can't figure out why. The stars were so bad I cropped out Xi Cygni, which made for a small picture. Was also heavily cropped due to my camera rotated slightly between the two nights of imaging.. which is also why I couldn't use my flats.

This is probably the first time I've been able to pull up fine detail on an image, for example around the Cygnus wall area, although not brilliant. I feel this would be made 10x better with dithering, as I assume I wouldn't have to bin as much, and wouldn't have to add as much noise reduction. This is also the first time I used my HEQ5, 2 hours were imaged on the SGP (Only because I hadn't recieved my HEQ5 by then), and the other 4 on a HEQ5.

Let me know what you think, and any advice is welcome as usual

6 hours @ 40 seconds each

ZS61

Modded 600D @ ISO 800

SGP + HEQ5

Processed in StarTools

5 hours ago, ONIKKINEN said:

Out of those the asiair is the easiest to setup and use, but youre forced to only ever use ZWO products which can carry a price premium. I recently bought a camera very much like the 2600MC but for about 60% of the price - not possible with the asiair as its not a ZWO product i bought. Stellarmate and RaspberryPi are cheaper and will work with most mabufacturers, but are limited in software to use (probably fine, everything you need will be there). The least convenient to setup but the best in terms of available software and options is a WIN10 mini pc.

I was thinking OAG incase I even invested in a longer focal length telescope for them planetary nebula and small galaxys, but I suppose the extra cost if I already had a guidescope, would just be an OAG. And when investing in longer focal lengths the small cost of an OAG would be nothing. So guidescope it is for now!

The WIN10 mini pc looks like a cool project, but one I fear a little bit of being able to set it up properly, that Stellarmate looks like an easy idea.. will have to think about that one

Thanks for the answer

5 hours ago, StevieDvd said:

SynScan_HandControl_web191112v3_2_.pdf 961.69 kB · 1 download

See the handset manual for the PA procedure (Page 35 of attached copy) it's done after a normal alignment but is more accurate but a little repetitive (though free).

This is very handy for my next night out! Thank you!

18 hours ago, barbulo said:

All of the above plus don't forget to tight the clutches before using the GOTO. Happened a few times. To a friend of mine. Not to me. Never again. 🙈

Is it the sudden shock of everything suddenly spinning and the thought of your hard earned money falling to the ground that keeps that in your memory? 🥶😅 Happened a couple of times when not tighening the DEC on my SGP a couple times 😱 Never fell though, I rarely leave my things unattended, I don't know how people sleep whilst their gear is running 😅.

20 hours ago, StevieDvd said:

The 3 star alignment adds a set of adjustment values to the handset goto command (note you don't adjust the alt/az bolts but use the handset). There is a PA check/Alignment in the handset that will guide you to adjusting the bolts if you prefer that over a manual or software PA.

For best results the controlling software and mount need to be in synch, which is why platesolving is becoming the norm and easier for those new to PA.

A home position for most is just a rough guide, especially when setting up afresh with tripod & mount. Even for a fixed pier (unless it's professional grade) the home position is 'usually' checked, and parked to, at the end of each session. I never consider my home position accurate until I have done succesful gotos and park my mount, call me Mr Pedantic.🤓

I was shocked about how far out my first star in the allignment process was out, had to move it manually rather than with the control it was so far off, but the other two were close enough with slight adjustments from the handset. I can polar allign with the Handset? Is it nice and accurate? I ask this because I'm not sure how accurate my PA was last night, it was still in the rings towards the end of the night (around 4 hours of imaging), and if I spun the RA 180 degrees it wouldnt leave the ring. Yet I was getting slight star trails with a ZS61 and 600D (360mm FL + Crop factor), at around 40-50 seconds. Not sure if it was my PA, or what people call backlash or periodic error (Not entirely sure what they are or how to fix them). I often read how people get 60-90 secs with these sorts of FL unguided.

20 hours ago, ONIKKINEN said:

Only for the first one! If you do a 3-star alignment your go-tos will be accurate with any reasonably close starting position so don't sweat it. With platesolving none of this matters, you could have your DEC 45 degrees off north and still reach your target with ease.

I suppose platesolving is something I'll get into once I start guiding..

..which is my next question. What is a nice budget friendly reliable guiding set up? So either a OAG or 'Normal' guider (Forget the name haha). So I'll need to purchase either the OAG or a new guide scope, guide camera, and a mini computer to run it off (ASIair or one of the RaspberryPis).

One to be proud of that! Nice one!

1 hour ago, Stickey said:

1. Congratulations. It looks like your polar scope is well collimated. It should be if the scope is new, but you never know unless you check.  

2. Umm, that doesn't sound right. There should be plenty of room for manoeuvre. Are the bolts the same length? Could they be accidentally swapped? I have a HEQ5,  at ~53°N and plenty of free adjustment for the latitude bolts. 

 

Oh, does it give you bolts of two different sizes? 😱😅 If so, I didnt notice, thank you  

49 minutes ago, bosun21 said:

A very important aspect of your first few star alignment procedures is to ensure that your finder is precisely aligned with your main scope. It will make your first star alignment much easier 

I wasn't even expecting I would have to use a finder scope with a GoTo system I'll check that out! Thank you!

45 minutes ago, Carbon Brush said:

Yes definitely use the kit indoors in daylight first.

I know someone, who told me of a friend who thinks he set the date in the wrong format.🥴
Mid winter, slewing to Orion, the scope tried to go below the horizon.

After much grumbling😡 ,swearing🤬, and getting cold he used the mount manually for the evening.
Next day in the warm and light he realised. March 10th? October 3rd?

There is a small region of the world, a former colony of the United Kingdom, who use this strange date format.
Everyone else (more or less) uses the same system as the UK.
Yet for some reason a lot of mount/handset manufacturers insist on copying the US system.

HTH, David.

Haha luckily I did read this many times about the dates on the synscan controller 😅 when going through the star allignment procedure I was looking on stellarium making sure it wasn't going to try and send it below the horizon 😅. Cheers!

21 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

I'd also suggest marking (tape/felt-tip etc) your home position.  Below taken from older threads for new HEQ5 owners.

See this thread for some pointers in setting a mark for the 'standard' home position on an HEQ5.

I usually say to people not to trust the accuracy of their home position unless it's returned to that by the mount and is not moved manually. Setting it manually helps but you won't be exact like the mount expects, this is why the scope  normally expects to go through a 1 to 3 star alignment.

Before I stated using platesolving I used to start at my rough home position, do a goto and centre that by moving the scope manually (not with the handset), then any goto should be accurate enough for visual or non-guided sessions.

You may be lucky with the polar scope - ideally they should all be set this accurate.

 

I didnt realise the home position was important for accurate gotos.. thanks a lot for that, Ill look into that!

And yes I find it unusual that some people have to do anything with their polar scope, I would've thought this should be one of the key things to quality check before leaving the factory.. a bit like auto manufacturers sending a car out with bad tracking and a dodgey speedo. 😅

6 minutes ago, varius21 said:

Thank you all so very much for giving it a try and giving me tips.

tonight if the sky is clear I will shoot for longer.

setup is EQ6-R pro with WO z73, flattened and canon 1100d with IR filter removed.

I will see tutorials for flats, darks and bias tonight.

How do I know what ISO to use, how long of exposure and how many repeats?

 

thank you 🙏 🙂

As far as ISO and exposure is concerned, if you give it a google, usually there will be someone whos made a graph of best iso to use for the model of your camera. Usually 800 or 1600. Regarding exposure (Again, could be wrong, I'm also a noob) its restricted to two things;

Star trails - as long as you can go without stars trailing.

Light pollution - After you take the image, have a look at what the histogram tells you. Ideally I believe the peak needs to be just to the left of the middle. If the histogram is too far to the right and your image is bright, then you need to lower the exposure, if the image is very dark, and the histogram is to the far left, then you can increase exposure (Unless your stars are trailing).

Hope this helps!

Grant

Thanks for the advice everyone! Its all helped save a couple of frustrating hours of clear skies (I hope 😅). Couple of questions;

1. I read a lot about polar scope allignment, when pointing mine at a distant object, getting it into the centre crosshair, it all seems ok when rotating through 180 Degrees. Is this too good to be true that its right first time? If anything I can see absolute minimal drift, but still sticks in the centre of the crosshair.

2. Is it normal sitting at 52 Degrees, that I've pretty much sunken my bottom altitude bolt, and the other one is scarily close to the counterweight? (a few mm)

Thanks again

Grant

Hello everyone!

I don't know whether I will curse the skies with this purchase and comment, but its looking like its going to be a clear night, on the same day as recieving my Heq5, must be unheard of. So to try and prevent too much frustration and the waste of a clear night, what are the top tips to get this working straight out of the box, on the first day of receiving?

No guiding is going to be done, so its one less thing to worry about. Basically what do a lot of people trip up on the first night of using a mount like this. I am hoping I should be ok to polar allign, as I've been doing that many times with my SGP, so hopefully thats all the same .

I'm not too sure what questions I to ask about it, so I will just hope someone can tell me what I need to know .

Thanks a lot

Grant

Hello there!

I gave your m45 a try out of interest, but as suspected 5 minutes data brought out a lot of noise 😱 So my result was not worth posting (infact I gave up quite early!). But at the same time, I am also very much a noob!

What equipment are you using out of interest?

Lucky for us in the midlands, it should be a clear night from 8pm to around 1am if the websites are correct, enough time to spend 4-5 hours on one target. This makes processing very very much easier by improving you signal to noise ratio, the differences was clear to me when I tried processing 1 hours worth of data, then stacked another 3 hours on top of the same image, and tried again. The difference as suspected was night and day.

Also get use to taking caliberation frames, especially flats, I noticed a lot of dust bunnys on the picture.

Cheers

Grant

The result is so surprising with only 1h50m intergration, 35sec subs, and no caliberation or dithering (No manual dithering is an assumption?)

I would be happy with a result like that if I had caliberation frames, dithering and 4h intergration time Very nice!! Love the detail

My initial set up began with a ZS61. But speaking from experience, and still very much in my beginner phase, I find myself using my Samyang 135mm MUCH more often. Not because its better, but because its easier. Still do use my ZS61, but my best pictures so far are definitely from my 135mm lens, but thats just because I'm a noob.

(When I say much more often, it means when clear skies and 'not up early in the morning' nights allign, which is very few and far between 😅😕).