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Everything posted by Grant93

  1. I was thinking OAG incase I even invested in a longer focal length telescope for them planetary nebula and small galaxys, but I suppose the extra cost if I already had a guidescope, would just be an OAG. And when investing in longer focal lengths the small cost of an OAG would be nothing. So guidescope it is for now! The WIN10 mini pc looks like a cool project, but one I fear a little bit of being able to set it up properly, that Stellarmate looks like an easy idea.. will have to think about that one Thanks for the answer This is very handy for my next night out! Thank you!
  2. Is it the sudden shock of everything suddenly spinning and the thought of your hard earned money falling to the ground that keeps that in your memory? Happened a couple of times when not tighening the DEC on my SGP a couple times Never fell though, I rarely leave my things unattended, I don't know how people sleep whilst their gear is running . I was shocked about how far out my first star in the allignment process was out, had to move it manually rather than with the control it was so far off, but the other two were close enough with slight adjustments from the handset. I can polar allign with the Handset? Is it nice and accurate? I ask this because I'm not sure how accurate my PA was last night, it was still in the rings towards the end of the night (around 4 hours of imaging), and if I spun the RA 180 degrees it wouldnt leave the ring. Yet I was getting slight star trails with a ZS61 and 600D (360mm FL + Crop factor), at around 40-50 seconds. Not sure if it was my PA, or what people call backlash or periodic error (Not entirely sure what they are or how to fix them). I often read how people get 60-90 secs with these sorts of FL unguided. I suppose platesolving is something I'll get into once I start guiding.. ..which is my next question. What is a nice budget friendly reliable guiding set up? So either a OAG or 'Normal' guider (Forget the name haha). So I'll need to purchase either the OAG or a new guide scope, guide camera, and a mini computer to run it off (ASIair or one of the RaspberryPis).
  3. Oh, does it give you bolts of two different sizes? If so, I didnt notice, thank you I wasn't even expecting I would have to use a finder scope with a GoTo system I'll check that out! Thank you! Haha luckily I did read this many times about the dates on the synscan controller when going through the star allignment procedure I was looking on stellarium making sure it wasn't going to try and send it below the horizon . Cheers! I didnt realise the home position was important for accurate gotos.. thanks a lot for that, Ill look into that! And yes I find it unusual that some people have to do anything with their polar scope, I would've thought this should be one of the key things to quality check before leaving the factory.. a bit like auto manufacturers sending a car out with bad tracking and a dodgey speedo.
  4. As far as ISO and exposure is concerned, if you give it a google, usually there will be someone whos made a graph of best iso to use for the model of your camera. Usually 800 or 1600. Regarding exposure (Again, could be wrong, I'm also a noob) its restricted to two things; Star trails - as long as you can go without stars trailing. Light pollution - After you take the image, have a look at what the histogram tells you. Ideally I believe the peak needs to be just to the left of the middle. If the histogram is too far to the right and your image is bright, then you need to lower the exposure, if the image is very dark, and the histogram is to the far left, then you can increase exposure (Unless your stars are trailing). Hope this helps! Grant
  5. Thanks for the advice everyone! Its all helped save a couple of frustrating hours of clear skies (I hope ). Couple of questions; 1. I read a lot about polar scope allignment, when pointing mine at a distant object, getting it into the centre crosshair, it all seems ok when rotating through 180 Degrees. Is this too good to be true that its right first time? If anything I can see absolute minimal drift, but still sticks in the centre of the crosshair. 2. Is it normal sitting at 52 Degrees, that I've pretty much sunken my bottom altitude bolt, and the other one is scarily close to the counterweight? (a few mm) Thanks again Grant
  6. Hello everyone! I don't know whether I will curse the skies with this purchase and comment, but its looking like its going to be a clear night, on the same day as recieving my Heq5, must be unheard of. So to try and prevent too much frustration and the waste of a clear night, what are the top tips to get this working straight out of the box, on the first day of receiving? No guiding is going to be done, so its one less thing to worry about. Basically what do a lot of people trip up on the first night of using a mount like this. I am hoping I should be ok to polar allign, as I've been doing that many times with my SGP, so hopefully thats all the same . I'm not too sure what questions I to ask about it, so I will just hope someone can tell me what I need to know . Thanks a lot Grant
  7. Hello there! I gave your m45 a try out of interest, but as suspected 5 minutes data brought out a lot of noise So my result was not worth posting (infact I gave up quite early!). But at the same time, I am also very much a noob! What equipment are you using out of interest? Lucky for us in the midlands, it should be a clear night from 8pm to around 1am if the websites are correct, enough time to spend 4-5 hours on one target. This makes processing very very much easier by improving you signal to noise ratio, the differences was clear to me when I tried processing 1 hours worth of data, then stacked another 3 hours on top of the same image, and tried again. The difference as suspected was night and day. Also get use to taking caliberation frames, especially flats, I noticed a lot of dust bunnys on the picture. Cheers Grant
  8. The result is so surprising with only 1h50m intergration, 35sec subs, and no caliberation or dithering (No manual dithering is an assumption?) I would be happy with a result like that if I had caliberation frames, dithering and 4h intergration time Very nice!! Love the detail
  9. My initial set up began with a ZS61. But speaking from experience, and still very much in my beginner phase, I find myself using my Samyang 135mm MUCH more often. Not because its better, but because its easier. Still do use my ZS61, but my best pictures so far are definitely from my 135mm lens, but thats just because I'm a noob. (When I say much more often, it means when clear skies and 'not up early in the morning' nights allign, which is very few and far between ).
  10. Fantastic for a first attempt at M31, much better than mine
  11. Good to know A bit unrelated, but I read somewhere that if the Tarantula nebula in the LMC was as close as the Orion nebula is to us, it would cover the same area as 60 Full moons, and be bright enough to cast shadows. Now I dont know whether that would be magnificent to see or a hinderence to the other Nebulas it would overshadow . I tried to use that NBA module on my NAN after downloading the bleeding edge version, but couldnt work out how to use it
  12. Awesome to see that even nebulous regions of other galaxys can be picked up by modded DSLRs, didnt know if this was possible before now . Do you think this would benefit from a HA filter to bring out more nebulous regions, or is this a job for dedicated astro cameras only?
  13. And with that reaction, you understand why the hobby is so addictive The excitement of catching photons from thousands to millions of lightyears away, captured on your screen for everyone to see. There are also other DSOs I can spot on there, such as the double cluster under cassio. Get yourself to a dark sky and you will see Andromeda with your naked eye
  14. Wanting to try this NBAccent after reading about it, but can't find it on there
  15. Nice process, I too love to try and get a nice darker red, but struggle not to saturate the rest of the picture also! As you will see in my further efforts following But yeah did a couple more efforts, the dark red one is probably too overprocessed, but I like saturated reds, but struggle to not saturate the background aswell as the stars. So its a struggle to keep it from looking overprocessed. The other one I love the color of the stars, but want a deeper red in the nebulosity but can't achieve it without saturating the stars too.. But atleast it doesnt look overprocessed, to me.. Let me know what you think
  16. Thanks for that, will revisit this post when I come to processing again Nice process! Thank you, always nice to see what other people and software do with the same image
  17. Love the color of the nebulosity and stars. Can you expand on the leaving more room for the fainter stuff? Not sure I understand. Thank you Regards Grant
  18. Hi all, Back again at the NAN, but this time with the modified camera, unlike my one back in summer which was a unmodded one. I plan on adding to this on my next clear night, but I am pretty happy with the results as is, but I do want better SNR. Really struggled to process this with the massive amount of stars overtaking the image, some advice would be very welcome on how to work around the stars, reducing as much as possible to help the nebulosity pop a bit more. Will add the TIFF see if anyone else wants to give it a go at processing Anyhow, heres just over 3 hours of the NAN and Pelican. Under about a half moon, although so far from the target I dont think it even effected it, could still see a washed out milky way for the majority of the early night at the Zenith. 3 Hours @ 90 Second exposures - Manually dithered every 5ish frames (Its good I dont get bored under a clear night sky) 25 Flats and Bias Processed in StarTools mainly with some tweaks in Gimp. Samyang 135mm Modded 600D SGP Regards, Grant 600D NA Nebula.TIF
  19. Hello! I'll answer for what I can haha, take it with a pinch of salt, I'm also still a beginner! How long? Limited to two factors! Star trailing and light pollution - If your stars start to trail, either improve your polar allignment or shorten your exposures need them stars nice and round. When it comes to light pollution, try to keep the peak of the histogram on the left of the centre, if your images are too bright you need to shorten your exposures. The more light pollution, the shorter the exposures you will have to take. How many? As many as possible, simple The more the better SNR (Signal to noise ratio) Settings? Idk, I use canon personally Software? DSS to stack, StarTools and Gimp to process, they are what I use. But theres a lot out there that people use, such as Pixinsight, Photoshop, Siril, and loads loads more. Other advice? Look around the forum and youtube, loads and loads of advice, people to ask who will help you with anything you need Regards, Grant
  20. Saw this myself whilst imaging last night, only had enough time to whip my phone out. Sad I couldn't get a better picture. Was baffled when I saw it though
  21. Just thought I've read it somewhere - if not, then I've been doing it wrong this whole time hahaha. I've been making librarys from each night, feel silly now. I trust your opinion more than my own, you're far more experienced than me.
  22. Bias is temperature dependant, aslong as its same ISO, give or take 5 degrees I believe is the rule. Flats are optical train dependant, you can reuse them aslong as you dont change focus, or the telescope/lens. Dark flats I just follow the same rule as Flats, if im taking flats, I retake dark flats also
  23. As other people told me, Dither and get lots of data to help with the SNR That advice certainly worked for me!
  24. Hello everyone, I posted here probably about a week ago, with frustrations and troubles on a certain target, and just general frustrations a beginner goes through. Anyhow, with help from the community, and an extra thanks to @alacant for the extra help and advise with StarTools, I've finally produced an image I am actually proud of. Although its framed up the same as my last one, non of the same data was used, totally new data. I was fed up with my last image, and past images I've posted here, looking more like cartoon drawings full of noise rather than real images. Although it's still not perfect, its the closest to real I've gotten. It was taken over 2 nights, both with near full moons. I still don't know why I chose this as a pair to image, rather than the traditional Heart and Soul, probably my only regret. Anyhow, heres the info and picture. 3 hours and 30 minutes of Lights @ 60 second exposures dithered manually probably every 5 images. (Helps to have the dob set up or binoculars to keep me entertained haha). Zero Darks 40 Flats 40 Dark Flats 40 Bias LPS Light Pollution Filter Samyang 135mm Modified 600D iOptron Skyguider Pro Processed in StarTools, also did a little extra tweeks in Gimp afterwards. Edit: Not happy with how it looks uploaded haha, looks a bit more blurry. When clicked on it seems to look sharper, more how it looks on my computer.
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