SimonIRE

Again, it feels like looking for things to say. To say that round stars isn’t the point of guiding isn’t right. To say that round stars are easy to achieve (in this case, without active guiding) isn’t true (and feels tone deaf). Look at all the posts here and on CNs by people struggling with trailing stars and having difficulties with guiding. And to have equal guiding errors in both RA and dec such that the stars are basically perfectly round, also seems overblown. The unguided performance of this mount….which I am now using, is phenomenal. My point, relates to this mount and 10 Micron mounts. And, I was merely trying to provide some data.

It was some your posts that helped me make a move from 10 Micron to ASA. That said, the 10 Microns are easier to use (I think…I’m an ASA newbie)

The image is over exposed and I agree the stars are large. The guiding on this mount is the best I’ve seen among the mounts I’ve used. I’m not sure how you attribute the FWHM to guiding issues when other parameters indicate arguably as close to visually perfect star roundness as you could ask for. I can post some other images. The main point I was trying to make was that the 10 Micron mounts, in my experience, guide really well but do need to be guided.

I have a GM4000 and recently have been testing my DDM100 in Spain. The GM4000 guides beautifully with a hybrid guide-model approach. 10-15 sec pulses get it to guide at 0.15-0.20". But the DDM100, with its predictive tracking, truly doesn't need guiding. I have attached a FITs file of M45, 10 minutes unguided at 0.33"/px (QHY600) using an iDK14.5 (AG Optical). The image is nothing much, other than a demonstration of star quality at this FL with small pixels. I was really happy with this; it's an unforgiving imaging train. M45-Ha-0001.fits

This is really interesting, thanks

This isn’t easy to answer. On planets, the LZOS definitely wins both on colour and resolution (obviously) but the TOA is incredibly good. Colour correction to my eye on the TOA is slightly better. As an astrograph with the 67 flattener it produces and perfectly flat field across a IMX455 chip - something you might expect but I have failed to achieve in my FSQ106 for example (I am a pixel peeper to the nth degree). I’m going to change the focuser though - I have a FT arriving next week. My LZOS is now in Spain for imaging only.

Although weight is perhaps a negative, the TOA130 is the best corrected refractor you can buy in my opinion. The only comparable scope that I haven't looked through is the AP130GTX which I expect is very very good too.

Although Talon is expensive, it integrates very well with image capture programmes so if you’re monitoring weather, for example using a Cloudwatcher, you can stop imaging and close the roof if it rains. Integration with ASCOM is the difficulty people have trying to roll their own solution. Talon is also used by several remote hosting observatories such as E-Eye. Like I said, it’s pricey, but it’s allowed me to image with confidence on those nights where the weather is unpredictable.

I've been reading this thread with interest. I recently sold my TSA120mm - awesome scope by any measure. I noticed some of the posters here have got the More Blue rings. There really is (IMHO) a lack of stylish/high quality ring alternatives to the Tak cradles and I too, bought these rings for my TOA. However after experimenting with them I found that they were a source of flexure in my set up. I also have experience with Moonlite Rings (get them from Ron at Moonlite, I also think Rupert sells them at Astrograph) on my FSQ106 and have found them to be really really solid and look great. The FSQ106 version fit the TSA 120mm. I eventually bought some for my TOA and used the More Blue rings to mount accessories on the sides. Now its rock solid. I also had some problems with some More Blue risers that I bought so overall, I think I have had bad luck with this brand. I should add though that I emailed Steve at FLO about it and I seem to be in the minority. Anyway, if you are wondering about really good rings for either an FSQ85, 106, TSA120 or TOA 130, Moonlite do very nice ones. Just FYI. See images below.

Hi Ossi, The ring holes are M6 - I am pretty sure of this. My advise regarding the Imperial plate is based on the reviewers; several have Esprit scopes and following discussion with FLO, were advised to get the Imperial plates. If you have any doubt, just email FLO - they will answer the same day. Simon

Very sad to hear people are threatening court action against HOUK.

Ossi - You need the imperial version of the ADM Losmandy plates. I would suggest avoiding the Skywatcher plates. If you go here, you will see that a number of reviewers pretty much had this exact question. The rings on the Esprit, like pretty much all rings, are M6. When in doubt - go here to get screws. I keep M6 and M8 screws of various lengths because they are always needed. Not to disagree with Carole above - but I would also advise a Losmandy over a Vixen dovetail for the Esprit (assuming weight isn't a major issue) Hope this helps. Best Simon

Stu, Don’t worry, some would consider your purchases relatively restrained. This hobby is dangerously addictive. Your gentle “isn’t it?” at the end of your post is a clear sign that you are beginning the feel the effects. 😄 I spent 25 years doing visual with a single pair of binoculars. I started AP a few years ago. Now I have an observatory at home and another one in Spain…😳

My mount is good - its a 10 Micron 4000 HPSII and can pretty much carry anything. Thank you very much for this practical guidance.

Thanks Steve - It would be great to hear from some of those RC and ODK owners too. Your experience resonates within mine alright! Simon

Hi All, I am new to SGL but active over on CN's (I have moved back to the UK after years working in the US). I am contemplating purchasing a Planewave CDK - probably the 12.5" (F8) but possibly the 14" (F6.7). I may use the x0.66 reducer if I get the 12.5" although its back focus requirements are incredibly tight and probably prevent using an OAG. I am interested to hear from any other imagers in the UK using a CDK or similar design large aperture scope. I have some doubts/uncertainty whether the seeing where I am (Kent - in a Bortle 5/6) will support this aperture. I I would be grateful for opinions on this! Thanks. Best, Simon

This thread makes sad reading. HOUK built my observatory right at the end of 2019 and completed it the first week of January 2020. Gareth and Nathan were nothing but gentlemen and did a really excellent job. Electronic communications were definitely an obstacle for them though. I fully understand the frustrations expressed here as well as the concern about losses. I doubt there is anything shady going on - it sounds like they are simply having a very tough time. I hope things start to improve for them.

I have to add, I had HOUK set up my observatory and they were fantastic. There is no doubt that they are a little challenged by modern communication systems. On Whatsapp, Nathan would take many days to respond to a text and it would clearly show that he hadn't looked at it in days. Email is a little better. However, their product is superb and worth the wait - they are true craftsmen. I am far more active over on CN's and Backyard Observatories in the US are exactly the same - long periods of going "dark" and preternaturally long waiting lists. I am not saying that this is good (perhaps its not even acceptable) but these folk run their timelines they way they run their timelines; its just the way it is. Makes your observatory that much sweeter when it's built. Simon

Really useful. Many thanks!

Graham, I sent you a PM. Simon

Hi All, I am looking for a programmable network power switch (with multiple power outlets) for my observatory. I looked at the Digital Loggers kit and this seems to fit the bill but is there a UK solution to this? The specific Digital Loggers product I am interested in (here) is out of stock and I'd prefer to buy locally. Any suggestions on this? Many thanks, Best,

I have the TSA 120mm which I use for lunar and solar imaging. I got it about 6 months ago. Last night, I looked through it for the first time (yes - sacrilege to have left it so long). I was blown away. Super sharp, perfect colour correction - really very very good. I also have an LZOS 152mm which is a great scope, but boy, is the TSA120mm something special. For imaging I would go with an FSQ106 if you are aiming for a "forever" scope. I also have this and it's a joy to use.

Hi All, I am new to this forum (I am active on CN - I used to live in the US but I am back home in the UK now). I have recently moved from a QSI683-FSQ106 combo which is very forgiving to a QHY600-FSQ106 set up and I am having some difficulties. The summary is that, as perhaps I should have expected, my field does not appear to be as flat as I had hoped (as measured in CCD inspector). I just read this thread with great interest I am having great difficulty taming the outer 30% of the image. The combination of small pixels and large sensor are proving to be a significant challenge. Added to this, I think I have some tilt. In the interest of having an easy life (particularly given that experimenting with equipment is very difficult when so few nights are clear), I am seriously considering downsizing to a smaller sensor. The next clear night I am going to try 2x2 binning and see if that helps. I am very interested to hear people's experiences with the IMX455 sensor, specifically in relation to achieving a flat field. Some of my colleagues have suggested that if visual inspection of the images looks good, then who cares but I am pretty sure I can see eggy stars in the corners. Thanks for reading, Best, Simon

Just one more; tonight's shift. I got rid of the Edge and replaced it with an FSQ106. Sorry about the messy observatory - and the pink Dyson hoover :)

I've been blessed - 152 LZOS and a TSA 120mm. To be honest, and I say this cautiously because a lot of folk love SCTs, I barely use the Edge. I am hoping to replace it (with another refractor). A Tak 128mm is on my wish list but they are very difficult to get hold of. The one in the posts above mine is a beauty.