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Everything posted by barbulo

  1. IMO, the main advantage of GOTO mounts for AP is not the ability to select a target and point at it, but the capability of moving at sidereal rate (what you need to avoid star trails in long exposures). Being sturdy is another feature I would look for in a AP mount. It is said that NEQ-5 class is enough for entry level AP.
  2. Once the tripod is leveled (roughly at least), you have to adjust the red angle with the green bolt: But as mentioned above, if it is for visual observing, just set the 51deg angle and point the RA axis roughly to the geographic north. For GOTO mounts, the polar alignment and star alignment must be done more carefully. HTH
  3. DSS is a fairly good software for stacking but for nothing else. Another good one is SiriL, slightly more difficult to use but with lots of tutorials available. Don't worry if you don't see a clear picture after stacking. The information is there. Hidden. After stacking you will need an image editing software such as Photoshop, Gimp... (the latter is free) to stretch the histogram and make that information visible. In order to preserve all data gathered during your session, the output file from DSS should be a FIT or TIFF file of at least 16 bits. There begins the dark art of image processing. There are tons of tutorials in YouTube about image stacking and processing. Dive in and have fun trying to squeeze out the most from your images. And the most important: enjoy climbing the steep learning curve!
  4. If you plan to use a DSLR camera with the 200P you might have problems to reach focus. The Sky-Watcher P telescopes stock focuser is designed for visual, so probably you will not have enough inward focus distance. The PDS series are the ones meant for AP. You can upgrade the scope with a new focuser but it would be another bite to your budget. If you take the DSLR path I strongly recommend you to borrow a camera from a friend and try it before any other purchase.
  5. No only the location but the correct actual time is also important for platesolving. Could happen that your OS didn't update the time.
  6. It is Ok. I’ve had a 200PDS (green dovetail) with all the AP gear attached and no issues. Now a 130PDS with the same dovetail and no problems either. Good mount, by the way. I’m very happy with it.
  7. Bear in mind that you can easily get rid of that colorization during processing; just aligning the three channels.
  8. Fully agree with all said here. Savvy words from savvy people. My 2-cents: as a beginner myself I would say practice is paramount; trial and error made me understand many things I previously had read about but didn’t really understand. Unfortunately, we need clear skies, very rare in some places (my investment-per-night ratio is still above 100€ ), which makes the learning curve even steeper.
  9. Welcome to the Lounge! Beautiful place to live is Annecy. Enjoy those dark skies! Nice M42 shot BTW.
  10. barbulo


    Hi and welcome to SGL.
  11. Hi and welcome to SGL. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube, like this one. How do you connect the mount to the PC?
  12. I had the same slowness using astroberry locally in the Pi. INDI common issue? Don't think so. Anyway, I've given up that route and gone for a mini PC (89€).
  13. Hi and welcome to SGL. In my opinion, the SW 130 is a good entry telescope for visual astronomy. However the eq2 mount is going to be too flimsy for that tube. I would go for a more sturdy mount like EQ3 or even EQ35, if your budget allows. The latter would even let you step into astrophotography. The despair you will suffer in the beginnings will be inversely proportional to the quality of the mount. Investing in a good mount is one of those things you will never regret of.
  14. After giving up trying the INDI / Rpi route, I have just ordered a refurbished Mini-Computer Fujitsu ESPRIMO Q9000 (Core i3 2,53GHz 4GB 120GB SSD HDMI WIN10) in eBay. I hope it can handle my setup running APT + CdC + PHD2 + RDC I've chosen this one because of its price and dimensions: Width168mm, Height165 mm, Depth57 mm, Weight1.4 kg. Although it doesn't have wireless connectivity, I plan to use an old PLC Powerline Passthrough to connect it to the router.
  15. +1 for the dummy battery. I purchased mine (with a 220v adapter) in AE.
  16. Yesterday I had the first clear night in around 3 weeks so decided to test the EKOS autofocus routine with the 600D. I disconnected the Pi one hour later and put the laptop back with APT, not long before the Moon showed up . I have the impression that autofocus feature in astro-software is meant for dedicated cams. The live view in EKOS was completely useless, so to roughly focus the camera I had to take a "few" pictures (each one took around 30 seconds to be displayed). Once there, the autofocus process didn't worked for me: most of the times failed to take or process the image. And on top of that, the Kstars/Ekos app crashed 3 times . My idea is not to use the laptop to control the rig. That is why I though about the INDI / Astroberry way. I am not a big fan of Windows but it seems that the only way to achieve my goal is using a mini-PC, though I didn't want to spend more (the Pi solution looked attractiv€ but...) Any thoughts / alternatives?
  17. Hi and welcome to the Lounge! Star Adventurer + DSLR and a good lens is a good way to enter in AP. Next step should be a good mount that allows you to “grow up” without weight restrictions. Enjoy!
  18. + for the firs one. The second one seems a bit greenish to me. Nice job BTW.
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