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barbulo

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Everything posted by barbulo

  1. Thank you @geeklee @wimvb and @The Lazy Astronomer I've just created a new library at G120 and Offset 30 for 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 seconds. I'll initially stick to gain 120. When I have plenty of clear nights (LOL) I'll experiment with other values.
  2. Thank you @geeklee The second set I took has no OFFSET in the FITS header, so I am not sure if I took the frames with Offset=30 as I intended. I'll take another set tomorrow. First clear night. Some day. Maybe in a few weeks. 😢
  3. I suspected that. May I ask how did you find out? I took another set but I'm not sure if it is at offset 8 or 30.
  4. Tank you @AstroMuni, Yes, this sensor suffers from serious amp glow. That’s why I believe good dark frames are so important. But I don’t know how to measure their quality before calibrating the lights. Hence this topic.
  5. Hi all, I am building the darks library for my brand new 294MM and, as I don't think I'll have the chance to take any lights due to the preceptive cloudy weeks that follow the purchase (you know), I am wondering if there is any way to know the quality of the dark frames. I don't know if I have to measure the ADU, Read noise... All those concepts still seem a bit blurry to me. Any clue would be much appreciated. I've attached a single frame and the Master stacked with SiriL using the average method with Winsorized Sigma Clipping rejection, in case you want to have a look Master Dark_G120_300s__-20C-Enero 2022.fitD_Library_20-12-17_G120_300s__-20C_0506.fit
  6. A warm welcome to SGL. I hope you enjoy those enviable dark skies.
  7. Hi @Kenboy Bearing in mind that filters limit the amount of light you are receiving, what do you want to filter out? If it is Light Pollution (Bortle 5 is not bad at all), you can look for UHC or CLS filters. If you want to boost faint objects like emission nebula, you could go for dual band such as L-enhance or L-extreme. But remember that filters will imply longer exposures.
  8. According to his signature, I guess the OP is using a DSLR (1000D), so I wouldn't recommend any dark or dark-flats calibration frames since he cannot match the exact temperature of the light frames. I would put some white clothes between the LED panel and the scope. Add layers to dim the light as needed. And be sure the fabric is stretched. This is a good guide. That's ok: the optical path must be the same as lights'. Why are you calibrating with flats only 19 light frames and not all the 27? You can use the same flats with all the lights taken with the same ISO (whilst the optical path remains unchanged)
  9. I've never used the 600D (same sensor as yours) with a lens. With telescopes I use ISO800 (supposedly the sweet spot for this cameras) and the exposure time depending on the target and the conditions. As a starting point, take pictures with different durations and looking at the histogram choose the exposure time that places the peak between 1/3 and 1/2 of the scale. Don't forget to take flat frames at the end of the session. Stack, post-process and enjoy. HTH
  10. barbulo

    Hello!

    Hi and welcome to SGL
  11. barbulo

    Hi all

    Hi and welcome to SGL.
  12. Welcome to the Lounge!
  13. Here is my solution, though it’s not a permanent obsy: Refurbished PC: 90€ on eBay PCL network connection: 35€ on Amazon
  14. Solved: I wasn’t using the latest version. Just an update needed.
  15. Hi and welcome to SGL.
  16. If you are going to plate solve, there is no need to do the star alignment.
  17. barbulo

    Newbe

    Hi and welcome to SGL, Chris.
  18. +1 for autoguiding. You “only” need a guidescope and a guiding camera. You might find both for less than 200 quid. +1 for platesolving. I use APT which I consider easy to learn. There is a free version with almost all the features available. You can handle all of the above with a Windows based laptop.
  19. barbulo

    Hi :)

    Welcome to the Lounge. Lot of knowledge here on that regard.
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