barbulo

First shot at the moon with this camera. I used 4 channels (LRGB) at bin 1 (to test this feature). Hope you like it.

According to your experience, how much time do I have to dedicate to RGB filters to add a decent star layer to a NB image? There are a couple of targets that are about to disappear from my fov and I’d like to squeeze them a bit more. Thanks in advance.

Answer maybe too late, but I did it with a star near the intersection of the equator and the meridian.

I’m far from being an expert, but I’d say east heavy, for the RA corrections to be always “pulling” instead of “pulling” or “pushing”. However, if I’m not wrong, it worths only if you are imaging in one side of the meridian, since after a meridian flip you should re-balance your rig. That’s why I don’t bother too much unbalancing.

I had the same dilema a few months ago, coming from a modded 600D too. I ended up buying an ASI294MM Pro after considering an IMX571 OSC. You should take into account the sensor-scope relation in terms of arcsecs/px.

Second rendition: still not satisfied with the color balance. More data in SII ad OIII might help.

Hi and welcome to SGL. Nice pics by the way!

Hi and welcome to SGL

Bienvenido a SGL!

Welcome to the Lounge!

Thank you @Adam J. I've already flipped the filter and the reflections are still there. Thank you @AstroMuni. Already using dew shield. It seems that reflections are only produced with very bright stars: Alnitak, Propus... Now trying to avoid them

I've been using the 200PDS on my EQ6-R Pro with fairly good guiding results: 0.5-0.7"RMS depending on the day. But 1000mm was too much FL for my cameras, so bought a 130PDS (good quality/price must say). IMO, 0,78 arcsec/px ratio is oversampling, regardless what Astronomy Tools says. You would like to go above 1,5. Guiding performance helps, but there are other factors like optics, filters, seeing, LP or wind that will affect the quality of your images.

Good job! Same situation here in the neighbor Germany: record of consecutive clear nights in one year time. You mean cloudy nights? Noooooo 😱

I would stack all of them at the same time: leave all invariant frames (referring to bias frames only, since I wouldn’t bother taking darks since you cannot control the sensor’s temperature) in the Main Group tab and put each night’s frames (lights and flats) in separate tabs. DSS will do the job.

All in Pixinsight. I’ve been using it for a couple of months and still getting the grip on it. The color palette is the result of a balanced mixture of a pure SHO and a variation of one of this dynamic combinations. This method gave me a satisfactory result with my first mono project, but this time I am not so pleased. I’ll reprocess it in the future.

I found these two but there more!

Hi all, This is my second project in NB. 8h 35m captured in 3 different nights. 59x300s Ha. 23x300s OIII. 21x300s SII. Not very pleased with the colors. Comments always welcome.

One month later those reflections reappeared. A bright star in the picture and there they are. Not so evident in a light frame (left) but boosted after stacking a few of them (right). I've tried to remove it in post-processing using this method but there is no way. Hasn't anyone had a similar issue with any filter? 😩 I will try leaving Propus out of the frame or using shorter subs (these were 300s).

I think the 550D with a decent lens (able to give a quite flat field) or a short scope on a Star Adventurer is a good setup. The use of filters depends on what you want to filter out or highlight in your images. L-enhance or L-extreme pro seem to perform very well for LP.

Lovely pictures! It seems that Samyang f/2 thing performs outstandingly for wide field AP. It’s in my radar for long term acquisitions.

I’ve noticed there are several optical artifacts in Stellarium at different zoom levels. Just ignore them.

Hi and welcome to SGL

Always ISO800 with Canon 600D

Hi and welcome to SGL!

Hi and welcome to SGL.