barbulo

No. Just removed the silicone and replaced the carboard with the cork. Looks it seats steadily.

Well, yesterday I had the fist chance to test the telescope after removing the silicone and replacing the clips. It seems the astigmatism remains, though not that strong. I wouldn't blame the MPCC for two reasons: never had astigmatism before the clips removal (some residual and uneven coma probably due to tilt or the CC itself) and because I rotated the imaging train 180º and the most affected areas rotated as well. Then my guess is that the problem resides in the telescope. Could it happen that the primary mirror is permanently deformed after the silicone-adventure? I'm sure the clips are loose enough not to pinch the mirror. It doesn't seem to me to be way off but, could a bad collimation provoke that astigmatism? It's frustrating spending the scarce clear nights trying to get decent stars across the field instead of imaging.

I always park the mount after each session. Doing so, and starting pointing the scope to the NCP makes things easier: PA -> unpark -> track (sideral rate) -> slew. After using Stellarium to slew the mount to a certain target, you might like to take an image, plate solve (Point Craft in APT) and let the software put it in the center of you FOV. Plate solving is a game changer.

Looks good to me, though I’m not an expert. You can try with longer exposures and check the stars’ shape. Next step should be dithering, to prevent walking noise.

Welcome to the Lounge!

To me, the contrast inside the galaxy of the fist one and the more “natural” background of the second one.

ASI224

I can’t see the gain or exposure time settings in your screenshots. I use Sharpcap for planetary imaging capture; very user friendly. Never used iCap. My workflow for planetary capture and processing is Sharpcap->PiPP->Autostakket->Registaxx->Fitworks->Photoshop. I believe SiriL is meant for DSO imaging processing. All but Photoshop are free and there are plenty of tutorials on YT.

Perhaps a meridian flip (rotate the mount when the target passes the meridian) would solve your problems. I can’t speak for star trackers such as the Star Adventurer, but in equatorial mounts you can fully automate the process by software: the mount follows the target until it’s time to do the meridian flip, then turns the mount, platesolves and resume imaging. I don’t know if the ASIAir is capable of doing so. I suppose If you need to do it manually, any planetarium software (Stellarium or CdC) will predict the exact time of the meridian pass of any object.

Nice image @SiD the Turtle I’ve recently moved to mono as well but haven’t dared this target yet. I consider it a tough one because of its high dynamic range. Good job!

Welcome to SGL. This kind of cameras are meant for planetary imaging (moon and planets). The technique is called “lucky imaging” and consist in taking thousands of very short exposures. Google it and you’ll find plenty of information and tutorials. This is what you may expect with and without a 2x Barlow lens:

Welcome to SGL. What settings are you using (gain, exposure time…)? Could you post and image?

Nice pics of the Sol, but none of the mobile obsy? Sounds cool!

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Hi and welcome to SGL

Hi and welcome to the Lounge!

Hands on, now I wonder how could I un-stick the primary from its cell. I managed to work a thin razor around. But the base is so tight that I can’t work it out. Using any kind of dissolver so close to the coated surface just give me the creeps. Any suggestion?

It make sense: pinched optics/mirror. I'm afraid I pressed the mirror. Clumsy me! Maybe if I remove it and glue it again more carefully... Thanks gents! My 130PDS had the 3 squares of cork glued to a disk of cardboard (loose), not to the cell, like my 200PDS.

Thanks @malc-c @alacant & @vlaiv It's the first time I see this aberration. I've had elongated stars at corners before, but never with this awful shape. I've never had a perfect flat field with the Baader MPCC MkIII neither with the 200PDS nor the 130PDS, with the 600D or the 294MM. But this is kind of catastrophic. Should I play with the spacing? It's the first picture after removing the clips and glued the primary mirror to its cell using silicone. Could something have gone wrong? I will try to completely re-collimate the telescope and check the next clear night.

I’ve just removed the primary mirror clips and the first light taken showed this: Anyone recognizes this pattern (more evident in the TR corner)? What could be the source? Guiding was quite acceptable (~0.4ish). Thanks in advance.

Hi and welcome to SGL

Hi and welcome to SGL!

Though it’s not a pier but a non permanent mount, I use the TP Link solution mentioned by @saac . Then you only need a power cable to connect your rig to the “world”. Less cables lees mess.

I went for the Baader MPCC MkIII and I will not say that I regret but I wouldn’t buy it again. For a similar price I’d go for the Skywatcher.

The 4 tiny ones in the 4 screws that hold the focuser knobs? Yes I do. All 4. Gracias!