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astrobena

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Everything posted by astrobena

  1. astrobena
    Yes sorry, it's a canon eos 400D with kit lens @ 28mm, f/4 ... Is the only way to correct this digitaly (f.e. with photoshop) or buy a better lens or what do people do to avoid this?
  2. astrobena
    For the past few weeks i've notived that on all widefield images my stars (except for the middle of the image) are not round, but a traingle shape, with the tip always pointing into the middle. Probalbly some kind of lens distortion but really weird. I've attached an image, shot at 28mm. You can see this best in the corners... if anyone has any ideas why this might be happening and how I could fix that I would be very grateful. 01_05_2021_22_23_29_0077.CR2
  3. astrobena
    Yes that would explain that, thanks alot again... M31 was actually much lower over the horizon on the 25-27th then on the 18th plus i had a full moon on those three days which was not the case on the 18. But that really cleares things up for me, thanks alot again.
  4. astrobena
    All done now!
  5. astrobena
    Or in short, go to select < color range... then under the drop down list either click highlights and then use the sliders fuzziness and Range to adjust the selection or under the drop down list select sampled colors and use the eyedropper tools under the 'Save...' button to adjust the selection, then hit 'OK' now go to select < Select and Mask and turn up the feather option to smooth out the selection (dont overdo) ... Now hit CTRL + SHIFT + I to inver the selection or go to Select < Inverse and now with your selection when you click the 'Create or new fill or adjustment layer' or go to Layer < New Adjustment Layer < Curves and hit OK you will be able to do your curves strech without bloating the stars as it will automatically turn your selection into a mask for the layers adjustment. Hope that helps!
  6. astrobena
    Brilliant, thanks! I've uploaded all of the files now and put them in a folder called 'Attempt 2' (still the same link)... Now the imaging sequence of the 25.02 was with 50sec and ISO 100 The imaging sequence of the 26.02 was with 50sec but ISO 200 (I was planning on using this for all the following sequences) <-- here i accidently made an extra set of Darks with ISO 100 before i noticed it had the wrong ISO value and then made some more And for the 27.02 its also 50 sec but for the ISO i wanted to use ISO 200 again (as mentioned) but for some reason forgot to do that and ended up with ISO 100, whereas the light, dark & bias frames are all ISO 200... (maybe here you could use the extra set of Darks with ISO 100 from the night before) Oh and befor i forget: you will see there's a folder with all the images i've marked as not usable... I've done my best trying to sort them out, but im sure i have missed a few which actually could have been used / cant be used (in DSS I choose to stack only the best 95% for that exact reason) I know this is by no means perfect in any way, but really just at the beginning of a steap learning curve with Astrophotography. Thanks again for helping me here.
  7. astrobena
    Hey, so i've been capturing some more data... around 3.5h now, again ive tried editing it and still not great results... This may well have something to do with my way of editing (i dont have an incredible amount of experience) and I will definitly have a look at some more tutorials but before i waste my time trying to achieve something that isnt possible, but is there anything you or anyone can do with this data, better then the first? (its in the same link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12NT4TmLCXvTfOXNPE_l8UWPRpgO2VjLe?usp=sharing, this time the Autosave015.tif) I would really appreciate any attempts at this!
  8. astrobena
    Ahh ok, ive used the tabs and at first even that didnt work but that was because i put the images from the imaging session with all 4 frames into the Main group not one of the other ones... All sorted now, cheers!! I use the canon eos 400D and ill probably settle on 50 sec with ISO 200 from now on, that seems to be best (i know thats again different from all the others but the 50 sec ISO 100 was slightly therefor the ISO bumb up) Thanks again!
  9. astrobena
    Hey everyone, As the titel mentions, after stacking alot of photos from M31 taken over multiple nights at slightly different ISO and Exposure values i have noticed a specific noise pattern of black pixels only, which becomes much clearer after some slight edits in PS but can already be seen in the stacked image (I used DSS)... I've attached the image below and oversharpend so it can be seen clearly. Any ideas? Many thanks!
  10. astrobena
    Hey everyone, Over the past few days i've been gathering data on M31 due to the battery not lasting long and andomeda dissapearing behind a tree, therefore the mulitple imaging sessions. So far i've been out and me being me, only took dark, bias and light frames for the first 2 sessions but for the last one i also included flats... (The lights all have very slightly different settings cause i have been experimenting slightly... that being 45sec @ ISO 400, 45sec @ ISO 200 and 50sec @ ISO 100) Now DSS assinged all the correct bias and dark frames to the corresponding light frames but because i only have flats for my last imaging session it applied those to all the different light frames and not just to the last set...(and due to me moving the telescope / taking the camera off, the dust spots have obviously been moving around and that therefor dont work at all for the other light frames...) So my question: Is there any way in DSS to apply flats to only one set of light frames and if not are there any other apps with which i can do this with? Many Thanks!
  11. astrobena
    Thanks alot, thats very helpful. If I take more pictures do they have to have the same exposure length. If not, and i take pictures with an exp. of 1min (15sec longer than the current ones) i would need new dark images? Im assuming I need new flats anyway due to dust stops moving around when transporting and for the bias I can just use the same ones right? (although making more doesnt take long at all).
  12. astrobena
    Hey everyone, I was out recently in what felt like the first clear sky in years and got ~109 min of data on M31, minus 76 frames due to a 12mph wind, which left me with 69 min of data (each shot is 45 sec with ISO 200 tracked with skywatcher star adventurer). As mentioned in the title I captured all these images in a bortal 8 location, used an unmodified canon eos 400d and the skywatcher 75ed as the scope (with a flattener). I've attached my edit (warning: it is not great at all + slightly overedited to see what details are even there), and to be my surprise it looked very similar to an image of M31 with only 20 min of data which i captured a month earlier (both of which i used DSS and photoshop for). Now this may well have something to do with the way i edited it in photoshop or a different setting in DSS or just the fact that 49 more data doesnt make much of a difference considering im in a bortal 8 location, maybe you guys could help on that. I've attached the link to the original files (in the folder called 18.2.2021) as well as the stacked image from DSS (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12NT4TmLCXvTfOXNPE_l8UWPRpgO2VjLe?usp=sharing). I didnt capture any flat images but have dark and bias frames, all in their correpsonding folders in the attached link. It would be greatly appreciated if you guys could see if there is more data in this then i have managed to 'extract' using photoshop. (If you use different software and try and edit these files please tell me what you used) If there isn't then maybe do you guys have any images of M31 (or similar) from very light polluted skies that you could share here? (If so i would if you could share the full exposure time and gear that would be great) Many Thanks!
  13. astrobena
    First of all, Thank you! I used the EOS 400d (which is now over 15 years old, and doesnt even have a live view) with the skywatcher evostar 72ed. When you say combine shorter exposures you mean stack the two different exposures seperatly and then merge them with photoshop right?
  14. astrobena
    Heres my first ever shot of the Orion Nebula in a Bortal 8 sky (as well as my first nebula). I stacked 52 light frames with Deep Sky Stacker (with dark, bias and flat frames) and then edited the stacked image with photoshop. The Core looks kind of blown out, so I'll need some shorter exposures to combine with this version. I've also got a question linked to this: As i'm in a Bortal 8 location (on the edge of London, UK) i feel like i'm kind of limited by the exposure length befor the image just looks completly white/redisch from light pollution. For this photo i used 45 second Exposures but had to bump down the ISO to 200 to make it not look overexposed. In the end, does it really matter if the image looks overexposed due to light pollution because the light from the actuall DSO will still be there and can be filtered out through the power of editing or does this not really work? *Any other comments or things i can/should change with the image would be greatly appreciated Many Thanks to anyone taking their time to comment!
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