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Deadlake

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Everything posted by Deadlake

  1. This is very true, same factory however different manufactory's pay different price for different quality. e.e. the above/ Hard to actually know what the differences are apart from the end price. Usually rules, you get what you pay for.
  2. Does anyone know how much back focus these scopes have? For example generally a Takahashi or Vixen will have around 160-180 mm of back focus whereas a APM will have around 220 mm of back focus. The APM will not need a GPC when being used with a BV and I was wondering if this was the case with the TS et other brands made in the same factory scopes?
  3. Given the mounts, maybe an AZ100. Faster to observe and setup than the EQ mount I have. Presume you just need push too?
  4. More aperture for me, I'd like a C11 Edge or Mewlon 250 and then one step up a 20"/F3.3 Dob would be great. Only concern is the cool down for a reflector scope, but I have other scopes I can use while waiting. As far as APO's once above 5" to get the most use I'd need an observatory, 5" is the top end of portability for me. Note: The TOA-130 has superb correction however it also has a long cool time time, bare in mind...
  5. Seeing Surrey was good (say 4/5). First time I managed to get out, due to weather/work. Also first time I managed to use an OIII filter since it turned up last summer on the Orion Nebula, amazing to see the nebulosity… Great contrast using an APM 30 mm UFF, however I’m sure it would look better in a 20 mm APM XWA I order a year ago….
  6. The ED76 is not a trap, looking at how many refractors to own I can see 76 mm class of scope as an idea travel scope. However for normal use in the back garden or travel to a dark site by car a 76 mm would not offer enough aperture compared to a 100 mm scope for me. I have a 130 mm frac and the 100 mm has not been used for months. The one question I would have is how much more would you see over the C9.25 and the 12"? Extra aperture for sure, but if you have a bright sky then the level of contrast at your site I suspect the extra aperture will not help out. C9.25 is going to be a hard scope to match, given its the pick of the Celestron SCT range for visual. If you has an AZ100 mount as well, the 4" frac and C9.25 side-by-side would have most scenarios covered.
  7. If you own multiple frac's which one do you use the most? I use a 130 mm because with an AZ100 it's tow trips to get it setup. I'd like a reflector scope, but given my life if I can get more then one hour outside I count myself lucky. I suspect if I bought a reflector it would be placed outside and before it would accumulate I would go back inside. Hence for now, and until the cloud cover clears I will stick with refractors...
  8. You can however the scope needs a lot of in-focus to use a reducer. Similar requirement with an SCT.
  9. Snap to focus, easy to focus or the range over which scope is in focus is short?
  10. The LZOS does snap to focus and stay's there. Where as with a the F7.7 doublet I need to adjust more, the focus point is over a shorter range hence hard to find/keep.
  11. We can test a scope on an optical bench, however how the scope responds to environment is going to be hard to replicate and we’ve not even mentioned seeing conditions. I’d suggest that’s the variation being reported…
  12. Tak and Vixens scopes cost around the same in Japan, the price difference is on treasure island. One question around the focusing in the doublets you have used, does the FS128 keep the subject in focus other a greater range compared to the Vixen doublet? I find my LZOS triplet easier to focus as it’s focus range is greater then doublets I have used. e.g., on Jupiter I would have to adjust the focuser less with the LZOS compared to a doublet.
  13. According to Markus lens design not changed since Thomas Black original design. And lens material, well we have measurements for that. One thing I would state is that other manufacturers have been increasing there tolerances, e.g Stellarvue is now fabricated in house Strehl 0.99 lens whereas LZOS has not followed suite as would add at least an extra $1000 per lens. It’s not the lens material but figuring the lens. We could also include the C-F correction for a scope. Also the PV of a lens, if you have a high Strehl and a high PV which do you priorities, you want a smoother lens as well.
  14. Lol, a bit like items from Baader, it will be next week, then next week…
  15. The only other Taks you need are a TOA and a Mewlon, then you have almost full house!
  16. Also what weight do the drives support, presume its 20 kg's on both sides? How much do the drives weigh?
  17. Here some competition then, the vixen half pillar is a lot lighter (1.8 kg) and easier to attach... However it's cast I believe, Japanese like to use this approach...
  18. Any news on the new half pillar Derek is putting together?
  19. Anyone here any experience mounting a Newt on an AZ100? On CN I've seen a 115 cm Newt mounted on there AZ100 and that looks possible. The Newt options I've come up with are: BS 10" (length 95 cm) weight 11.5 kg BS 12" (length 110 cm) weight 18 kg. My main concern for the 12" is the weight however the extra aperture would mean not needing a larger aperture for some time. I already have a AZ100 so why buy a Dob mount, especially as I have push too.... Why not buy a Dob, well these are Boren-Simon Newts and run at F2.5 which is great for NV usage and can be used in prime mode so no long stack attached to the focuser. Thanks
  20. Serge needs to have a physical scope tech zero present to make a set of encoders. So it's a nope at the moment.
  21. If theory it would hold a TSA-120, however in practise no, just a little to heavy. It's really aimed at Japanese market for holding 4" Vixen/Takahashi scopes
  22. Slo-mo? If only the Scopetech Mount Zero had push-to.... Looking at a lot of the comments, maybe another thread, whats the best grab n' go setup. 1) What's the lightest setup you find usable? 2) What's the largest aperture you can use as grab n-go? Two trips is grab n' go?
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