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  1. Yup, I use it, it was one of the first planetarium programs that I used contantly, so I got fairly used to it. Now I much prefer it to the others, I find I just can't get on with them. It does have some annoying features but on the whole I'm sticking with it. Chris
  2. Jon, I had my 300D done by Astronomiser. Excellent job, and I'm still using this old technology. But If I look at his site them he doesn't do the modification for 1DS at all. Maybe you should check to see if the mod is available for the 1DS before you consider using it for AP in this way. Chris
  3. I've been getting great results with my modified Canon ES300D, so I'm now considering moving on to an astronomical CCD camera and have decided to purchase either the SBIG ST-8300 or the ATIK 383L+. Currently using the Canon I can get a good result in one imaging session of about 2 to 3 hours using the following workflow 1. about half an hour setup, aligning on subject, focussing, taking test images 2. flat darks and flats, saved to CF card on camera (saves download time) in RAW format, usually I take 19 of each which are then used by DSS to make a master flat for the session. (I do observatory
  4. Hi, I attempted this subject last year with an unmodified Canon EOS300D, and I was able to get a result. I wouldn't call it a good one though, the HH is faint and I had a lot of trouble pulling anything out of the background and I think I was taking 2 minute subs (can't be sure on this they may have been longer). Since then I've had the camera modified and I use a CLS clip filter too to deal with the light pollution. This definitely gives much better results. If you didn't want to get the camera modified the you could just try using a light pollution filter to extend your exposure times. Chri
  5. 2" really give an advantage when it comes to imaging. The focal plane image produced by the telescope is really quite wide and when imaging with a 1.25" hole the corners of the image will be vignetted by the restricted aperture. For visual use the vignetting is still there, but visually it will not really be apparent because most of the time you are looking at the centre of the field. There is no advantage to using 2" eyepieces in a 1.25" focus barrel, and also because of the extra glass involved the 2" eyepiece will be more expensive than the equivalent 1.25". It will also be heavier so could
  6. Hi bunch, This is the result of about 2 hours effort at the scope on Friday night and another 2 hours on Saturday morning. My first decent HH. Details: Camera: Modified (Astronomiser) Canon300D Scope: William Optics Megrez 80II FD Exposures: 15 at ISO800, 4 minute subs, darks, flats and flat darks were taken too. Stacked with DSS, processed in Photoshop CS3, level/curves and then tweaked using Noel's actions and Peter Morris's actions. Hope u like. Chris
  7. Ally, Subs were 240 seconds each. Mount is as I bought it, which was second hand two years ago. I had a tracking fault about this time last year (the cold affects it) and I took it to Telescope House for a repair and clean up. I have to hand it to them it came back better than before it went wrong. I've had the same issue this year but it has corrected itself (after I applied some warmth using a vivarium heating cable wrapped around the casing). Chris
  8. That's how I started, using an ST80, like you I was very encouraged with the results. I upgraded to a William Optics Megrez 80II FD which I obtained second hand. The results were a magnitude better, the colour correction was so good. I've been using it for about 2 years now and the scope hasn't given me a bad image yet, I only get those through sky conditions and my own errors. I'd definitely recommend a WO 80mm scope. Good Luck Chris
  9. Thanks for the comments all. Flats were taken, but on 2nd evening the camera took jpeg's instead of Raws, so DSS wouldn't use them. Note to self "need to pay more attention". The LX200 is permanently equatorially mounted on a pier and AE Megawedge. I spent considerable time getting it accurately polar aligned. Thanks again guys. Chris
  10. Hi Guys, This is my latest image, taken over two nights 17th and 30th Jan, in 18 four minute subs, so there is 72 minutes of exposure. Taken with the modified Canon EOS300D through my WO 80II FD, piggybacked on the LX200. Unguided. Stacked with Deep Sky Stacker and processed in Photoshop CS3. Hope you like it, I do! Chris
  11. This is my first excursion into narrowband imaging, albeit only a Ha addition for a luminance layer in Photoshop. Details are, Modified Canon EOS 300D with Astronomic CLS clip filter, William Optics 80II FD refractor. Colour data taken on 11th October between 21:45 and 22:32 BST 10 x 240 sec exposures, calibrated with darks, flats and flat darks. Ha data taken on 12th October between 21:54 and 22:40 BST 10 x 240 sec exposures, calibrated with darks, flats and flat darks. Each nights data stacked with DSS. Post processed in Photoshop CS2. Ha data grayscaled and layered over colour data as lumin
  12. Whatever, it's still a stonking image! Well done m8. Chris
  13. This is a good image. It clearly show more stars within the boundary of the shock waves where all the dust has been cleared out by the explosion. Good one. Chris
  14. Two very quick and dirty sets of shots of Pluto. 4 off 1 minute subs taken on 18th and 24th August and turned into a gif file so that it does a "blink" comparison. This is a crop of what I captured with my Canon EOS 300D and WO Megrez 80II FD, the first set of frames I captured in JPEG only so it is very noisy, the second set was in RAW and were much better. I'm going to try and add to it but capture in RAW for the rest. Chris
  15. Hi Jordan, Pretty good for a first DSO. The elongated stars in the corners are due to the curved focal plane that the scope produces, the only way to eliminate these is to use a field flattener. I deal with them by cropping the image. Well done. Chris
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