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SteveA

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Everything posted by SteveA

  1. I think mine must be the predecessor to this? It's also a desiccant DH and it looks physically very similar. Mine must be 8 or 9 years old now and I'm amazed that it's still working well after all tha time.... Steve
  2. Yes...I have interlocking rubber matting as well.I seem to remember this solution was quite popular several years back amongst the SkyShed POD fraternity, so it's probably the same product you have in yours. The DH does a pretty good job whilst it's running and it's only occasionally that things go wrong. I'm generally surprised at the potential for condensation in the POD, after all there is plenty of ventilation via the dome/wall junction. So despite the rubber matting I'm still suspicious that the decking does allow moisture in to the observatory so I'm considering adding a layer of thick polythene between the deck and the matting..it may help.. Steve
  3. Thanks Dave.... Would you recommend investing in an illuminated reticule eyepiece for this or could I use a camera? Steve
  4. You are lucky then...Without the dehumidifier, during the winter months when the temperatures are low and we have low pressure, the condensation issue is a major problem for me. Quite literally water is dripping from the inside of the domeand the pier, the mount and scope are covered in a layer of condensation. I pretty much have the DH running all winter to counter this, but the DH I have doesn't recover from any power outages (which sadly we have fairly offten around our village), so occasionally I do get a damp obey. I have a remote temperature/humidity sensor in the observatory and during the winter if ever the humidity in the observatory gets to around seventy percent, I'm seen running to the garden to check the DH. I am pretty sure that having the dome on a wooden deck is partly to blame for the excessive dampness. Steve
  5. Okay...confession time! I have never attempted a classical drift alignment ( ahh....I feel better for getting that off my chest?). Until last year I had neither an Eastern nor a Western horizon...our house blocks the west completely and trees blocked the east, so the process as far as I understand it wasn't possible. Last spring we had the tree surgeon round who removed the offending Leylandi jungle! So although I had a bunch of extremely unhappy neighbours, I do at least now have a reasonable view of the Eastern horizon. It's only since then, that I have been able to perform a PHD polar alignment, requiring an eastern or western horizon. Having followed this thread, I reviewed the classical,drift alignment process, which admittedly does look pretty easy. Question is...how accurate would it be for me as I can not see a western horizon? Steve
  6. It's definitely the EQMOD HEQ5/6 you need to use with the EQDIR connection to the mount.. Steve
  7. The PHD2 user guide pretty much gives you all the pointers you need to getting off the ground with guiding....it's a great document. https://openphdguiding.org/documentation/ Steve
  8. Fingers crossed for you mate.......what a prize if you have? Steve
  9. ?well that made me laugh, it was probably the occasionally bit! Anyway...welcome on board... Steve
  10. Pretty much along the same lines as Oddsocks suggested, not sure if you have already seen this ? https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/open-phd-guiding/PDt4E14bbkk Have you tried connecting to PHD2 before anything else? Steve
  11. Have you tried assigning the mount to a different COM port? Steve
  12. I will bring mine in if I know we are in for a spell of rain/cloud/snow/fog (which of course hardly ever happens does it!).. Like Carole I tend to run a dehumidifier in my observatory....must be something with SkyPOD owners I guess, without it I get a fair bit of condensation inside the dome etc. Steve
  13. Well Mick...I'm not sure. However I've had one for several years and its been out in most conditions (okay maybe not the rain!), but its performed faultlessly....so wouldn't worry to much. I would however be rather interested to hear Atik's response to your enquiries.. Steve
  14. Interesting....and slightly more probable than the good old alien megastructure.. Steve
  15. SteveA

    New Member

    Welcome on board Bob... Steve
  16. With what sounds like a very good location (most of us on here would probably kill for a near dark sky site), I think I agree with you that you should be able to produce better images...(sorry if that sounds harsh). One thing that jumps out from these images is that you appear to have a guiding issue. Very egg shaped stars are pretty much indicative of that and this may well be the cause of the issues that you have identified yourself. A lack of flats may also contribute. I would address the guiding issue first and maybe even something as fundamental as a poor polar alignment may be to blame. Hope that helps...though I'm sure others will also have some comments. Steve
  17. Although I guess I can see the logic behind that, I've never done it that way ie. interrupt an imaging session to take flats. With my setup I orientate the scope in the vertical direction and lay the EL panel across the open end of the OTA and so I would have to relocate the target and frame it between lights if I were to do that. So I tend to always take flats at the end of the session. Mind you I dare say its not beyond me to find a way of taking the flats without having to do this. Having said that, its been a while since I managed to grab more than one set of lights on any particular night, so its somewhat academic really....thanks to CLOUDS.. Steve
  18. Its a pain I know...especially when you are tired and want to hit the sack,but this is essentially why the process of taking flats just needs to become a routine task ...However on the bright side they don't actually take that long to do, especially when you have worked out the correct exposure length, which is normally quite short. Of course if you use a mono camera and use filters you need to take flats for each filter.....the more filters you have shot through..the more flats you need. Steve
  19. That's a super piece of woodwork there.....very impressed. Steve
  20. I was reasonably successful using the polar alignment feature of PHD2, which is a drift based tool, so it does take a little time to establish a base line etc. However just last week I had a go using the tool in Sharpcap and was very impressed. Its very quick and easy to use...... Steve
  21. I dare say you could...but it would be a massively tedious task...for which life is to short! imho. Why bother when there are great tools out there to make life easy for you... Steve
  22. I found by far the easiest solution was using an EL panel...getting images of the sky at twilight for me never happened. If you are interested there is a short article by Steve Richards here...http://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/feature/how-guide/how-build-flats-panel-imaging Steve
  23. If you are taking flats remember that they need to be taken either prior to or after your imaging run...You need to acquire these with the imaging equipment (camera, filters etc) in exactly the position they were orientated when you took your lights... Steve
  24. Welcome onboard...... Believe me...I've asked what I thought were dumb questions...don't worry though, as has been said, it's the only way to learn and no one on here will hold it against you. Steve
  25. We certainly had the same issue when trying to pay one of our suppliers in Germany from our Santander account. In fact it was imposible to set up the payment details in Internet banking, it recognised the account details (presumably the sort code) as being overseas and wouldn't allow to complete the transaction. We made inquiries to Santander and were told the transfer needed to be set up as an International transfer, we were also quoted £25 fee for doing this. Ours is a business account, I'm not sure if maybe this differs from a domestic current account...or maybe it's just Santander. Steve
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