powerlord

Interesting comparing it to mine a few weeks ago. That 3nm Ha really helps pull out and focus the Ha doesn't it ? I shot Ha too, but just with my ZWO 7nm - you can see it's far more muddy:

very nice. best I've seen.

I can't decide whether I like this better with no stars, or a tiny little suggestion of stars. Anyway, it's my first mosaic - two parts taken with my Altair 80ED and ASI1600. 3 hours of 10 min subs. More of the flaming star than of the tadpole. APP did a great job of joining the subs. I thought I'd add some S and O.. and maybe I will sometime, but I think it looks so strong with just the Ha. And even a little suggestion of stars hides some of the nebula dust - which is powerful in itself. It's amazing how just a little bit of stars changes the feel of the whole piece. Anyway, comment below which you like best. No stars-

1500mm (12" 300PDS)

Shot the whale in January with with the TS-Photon 150: Back at it last night, but with the Monster 300PDS. Clouded up towards the morning, but still got 250 mins of 5 min subs over the night with the ASI533 . Seeing seemed pretty good, and the whale was swimming high in the sky:

Here's the 3rd one from last night - again with the Monster 300PDS, 205 mins of 5 min subs. asi533

ver nice detail you got there. I need to have a go at this again - when I tried I didn't get anything like the detail you have. well done sir. 👏

Looks good to me, you'll probably find there a fair bit of extra detail in the cores there if you can pull it out with an HDR type process.

Target no2 last night with the Monster 300PDS asi533, 205 mins of 5 min subs. I was getting crazy low 0.3' RMS which was nice.

Hoi, less of the cheek! This is my state of the art observatory made from composite material I'll have you know! 🤪

Not the best composition this - focused on getting in center rather than thinking what result would look like. Better at an angle down a bit, and would have fitted in the other wee one above it. Hey ho. Maybe next time. However, Monster is definitely doing it's thing. 300PDS, asi533. 205 mins of 5 min subs. Stacked in APP, Processed in APP, Siril, Starnet2++, Affinity Photo and Topaz.

Im shooting this tonight, and have much the same - high 3.x. forecast said seeing should be good too. 🤨

Eq6r Pro with the 'monster' on it.. 300pds, with 20kg weights. Not bad rms that - ill take it!!

Big gun out tonight. Surrender wee galaxies, resistance is futile!! Tonight, sunflower, silver needle and ngc2903. Stu

bear

Second Light for the new SW 200PDS after a re-collimation. Look at those stars @vlaiv - round as a baby's bum! asi533 and UVIR filter. 315 mins of 300 second exposures. stacked in APP, LP removal in APP and processed in Affinity Photo and Topaz. I reckon I've got some decent detail there. Here's a shot from 2 months ago with my TS-Photon 150 for comparison, though that was using asi1600:

could be worth maybe @AstroNebulee doing a 'sticky' summary of all the best info in a post at start or seperate thread for folk to find easily ?

0.5 rms is amazing work for an azgti. well done

well, to be fair forward time travel is perfectly possible. we do it everytime we move. And given a speed of a decent fraction of C, we'd appreciate it quite meaningfully. However, the general concensus is that travel BACKWARDS in time is not possible. Except via some worm hole or warp field theories, the first suggesting being crushed to nothing, and the second requiring more energy than their is in the universe. But, we can dream. As we know, in reality all we need to do is fly around the world quickly* stu *ancient movie reference.

haha. try changing playback speed ? I do that with most american ones, but speeding them up 2x! But Im typically the opposite watching tutorials.. screaming at the screen - get on with it!!, etc I was thinking of doing a real time processing tutorial sort of thing - slow down or pause at yer lesiure, but this is real time kind of thing ? As I'm always surprised when folk say they've spend all weekend processing, etc - if I remove time waiting for the PC to do stuff it probably takes me an hour tops to process my subs into a final image. But I imagine not being a pixel peeper helps I dunno. I imagine the hobby has more than it's fair share of OCD endowed practitioners! 😅

Actually looking at processing above, I think the moral is to not process yer AP stuff when your boiler company is screwing you around and cancelling installs while still got 2k of my money.. the actual raw subs are very nice, and I'm sure I can do better than that. anyhoo - yes baader mk3 cc. zwo eaf. I use asiair. asi533. I have a top aluminium bar I made and bolt across OTA rings. I use a dew heater on guidescope (old SW 50mm finder with 3d printed mod to fit asi120mm mini), and a dew heater wrapped around ext between asi533 and CC (I find it stops any condensation forming on the filters). I've just also fitted a fan on the base as I did that on my 300PDS, as it totally stopped dew forming on the primary for the monster - last night I had dew on there from midnight or so, which wasted my second target. this should stop that. I basically mount a standard pc fan pushing air out (i.e. sucking through ota) onto a bit of correx with a hole cut in it, and tape that to bottom of OTA. plug in to asiair where I can control power, but will just run at 12v (100%) tonight. tonight plan is either IC342 or the triplets. or both. So just uvir filter. I also recollimated it properly. But yeh, happy with it - no issues really other than the focuser tube is a wee bit off centre when I collimated with my Ocal. I suppose I could loosen it off and see if I can fix that but for now I've left it.

there is a pause button! 😅

yeh I'm Bortle 6 and have found LP filters don't help for galaxies. shoot ones that are high, avoid moon in the sky and take lots of subs. and APP is great at light pollution removal.

oh, sorry. maybe I should do a few tutorial videos. not that much out there, so could be useful to others.

Obviously there are loads of way, but here's one I found works quite well: - get your star mask layer as a seperate layer (starnet2, starXterminator, etc) and compose this as you would usually - as an 'add' layer on top of your starless image. duplicate this. Now, make only the star layer visible do a filter, frequency seperation and adjust so that only the centre brightest part of the star is in the high frequency layer - zoom in here so you get it right Now you can bin the low frequency. Now, change the blend mode of this layer to add. Now with the high frequency, do a curves adjustment to make the background black, and the star centres nearly fully white. (i.e. S curve) - try using a contrast adjustment if not very good with curves. turn your old star layer back on, and you can now flip between them and adjust until happy. You should find that you can nearly half your star sizes while still keeping them graduated and clean. stu