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Ian McCallum

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Posts posted by Ian McCallum

  1. 3 hours ago, 04Stefan07 said:

    The closest thing I can find down here is this one which looks like the Nevada one.

    https://amateurradiosupplies.com.au/index.php/product/sadelta-sps-2530d-switching-power-supply/

    Almost impossible to find them here!

    Something like this should do...  They do cost a fortune in Oz!😲

    https://amateurradiosupplies.com.au/index.php/product/dirland-d-1206gs-regulated-power-supply/

    Here's an equivalent one that I could buy in the UK, it cost £40 (around AUS$70).😲

    https://www.kcb.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p55203_PS-08-6-8A-Linear-Power-Supply.html

  2. Here's the one I use. It's a switch mode power supply, so it can produce a bit of radio frequency interference to my amateur radio transceiver. 

    It's got variable voltage control and run at 25A continuous or 30A peak, which is overkill. 🙄

    20220417_151438.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. 8 hours ago, 04Stefan07 said:

    Cable doesn't seem to get hot when slewing. Just not having consistent voltage throughout the imagine run.

    Sounds like that the power supply isn't that well stabilised, as it seems to drop voltage whilst under load.🤔

  4. I'm slowly working my way through KStars and EKOS, learning the package.  I have a question though....  Is anyone aware of a way to create separate presets or profiles with EKOS, so that I can save gain, exposure and offsets all in to one profile at a time?  That way, I can just select the right profile based on the target of interest, i.e. planet, DSO, etc.

  5. Although we say 12V, most of the larger ones tend to be 13.8V.  This is perfectly acceptable for the job in hand.:thumbright:

    I think the problem that you are experiencing with the voltage drop is probably due to the power supply.  It's probably struggling with the load on it or perhaps the cable feeding the mount simply is too thin for the job, thereby creating a bottleneck.  Does the power supply or cable get hot, when the mount is slewing?🤔

  6. On 15/04/2022 at 09:34, malc-c said:

    Personally I don't know the grease supplied with the kit, but if its the same gunk that Synta use in the HEQ5 gearing then most tend to clean the grease off the cogs and use a good quality white lithium grease to lubricate the gears.  I don't think the gears spin fast enough to throw grease, unless the greasing was excessive.

    I believe it's the same stuff.🙄

  7. When I fitted the aftermarket EQ5 Goto kit to my EQ5 mount, a few months, I used the supplied glue grease.  My question is, is it worth replacing or should I just keep with it?  My though was that as the mount slews at high speed, that the gears and cogs would shed a loose grease, whereas the sticky stuff would remain on longer.  Does that happen in reality?

  8. 2 hours ago, malc-c said:

    Ian, Chris Shillito originally wrote EQMOD for his own EQ6 around 12 years ago hence the HEQ5/EQ6 reference.  Naturally people were interested in the ability to control a telescope from a PC so it was shared and it developed from there.  The software reads the firmware in the synscan unit / motor board and obtains the mounts parameters it needs to control the mount, so it doesn't matter that other mounts are not listed.  So long as the driver is set to SyntaEQ it will be fine.

    Thanks for the info, as I was just wanting to use it as a backup on my laptop, incase my RPi was unavailable, etc...

  9. 14 hours ago, Sp@ce_d said:

    Isn't it amazing.. capturing those points of light... with no trails!!.. & wondering what's out there

    Well, if I can even call myself experienced!.. I'll say... they look amazing.. because I have a big grin on my face knowing the journey you are on.. that is fulfilling, frustrating, challenging... rewarding... and soo addicting... oh and... expensive 🤣

    I'm trying to keep the costs down!😮  Thanks to Chris on YouTube (Astro La Vista), I'm working on improving the images...👍

    • Like 1
  10. Been there, done that!🙄  I've had a number of issues with KStars and Ekos, etc.  It's not the simplest or most intuitive software to use and could do with an 'idiot' mode, for people like me.  I've also had problems with RPi throwing wobblies, etc.  First time I tried to plate solve a few nights ago, I couldn't get anything.  Last night, was the first ever time that plate solving actually worked for me!😲  I don't if it was because I increased the exposure time and gain settings, but it did seem to make a difference.  Having a 120mm f8 1000m refractor makes the FOV a bit small, so perhaps there weren't enough starts in the image to be resolved correctly?🤔  I've got it working after a fashion though...

  11. 7 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

    Yes I did notice that the ZWO ASI 224MC has a tiny 1/3" sensor, so maybe tilt won't be an issue.

    Michael

    There's a bit of 'give/slop' in the focuser tube, but that seems to be normal for these lower end refractors from SW. 🙄  I get the same affect with some of the eyepieces that I use, if I'm visually observing.

  12. 26 minutes ago, Annehouw said:

    Let me throw in a bit of a grumpy statement.

    You can argue forever about the pros and cons of gear. However, what matters most is mastery of the equipment. Any equipment that you have. And dedicate the hours in actually capturing light and gettong results.

    Better to start with "simple" equipment that you like to use and that gives you gratification than struggle with equipment that is too far into the learning curve (camera's and scopes).

    Too much energy (and frankly said emotion) is dedicated to gearangst.

    Just go out. Do it. Learn and grow. 

     

    I can very much chime in with this!🙄  I went down the road from a 4.5" Newtonian reflector, to 8" Dob, then 120mm refractor with EQ5 Deluxe mount, then motor drives and finally a goto system.  That's not including the two ZWO cameras that I've bought and Raspberry Pi to run it all remotely.  At times, I've felt like pulling out my hair.  My bank balance is low and my 8" Dob is collecting dust from lack of use.  If I don't make a breakthrough soon, then I'll be putting most of the AP gear up for sale and going back to being a purely visual observer...

  13. 56 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

    Hi Ian

    From what I understand, the 2" Optical Back can be unscrewed from the end of the focuser, revealing a M48 thread.

    The ZWO ASI 224MC has M42 threads.

    So you need a suitable length Female M48 to Male M48 extension, plus a  Female M48 to Male M42 adapter at the camera end.

     

    I spoke with Auntie @FLO, who suggested that the 224MC is really a lightweight camera that doesn't need to be screwed in directly.  I can live with that.😉  My biggest headache at the moment is the very steep learning curve that it KStars and EKOS - plate solving, etc.🙄

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