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Pryce

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Everything posted by Pryce

  1. Could what you read previously be about one of the older(or non MPCC versions) ? I'm assuming there's older and other versions since this one is called Multi purpose MK III. That could make sense 😅
  2. I have the Baader one my self and I've not had any issues in testing. I never read anything bad about it before I purchased it and it also has stellar reviews on FLO. Though he Aplanatic one should be better, but that's also reflected in the price. Since you don't already have a CC I'm assuming you're relatively new to imaging(at least with the reflector) and in that case I don't think you'll notice the slighly lesser quality of the baader or the 0.9x compared to the aplanatic. Though I've never compared the three, so I can't say for sure. But here's what I found in my research: Here's a search for the baader on astrobin. A lot of good result using setups similar to yours https://www.astrobin.com/search/?q=Baader MPCC Mk III And here with the f4 Aplanatic https://www.astrobin.com/search/?q=SkyWatcher Aplanatic Coma Corrector And the SW 0.9x https://www.astrobin.com/search/?q=Skywatcher 0.9x coma corector If you zoom into the corners, you can see a slight difference in the coma, but I was looking for it, so I couldn't say if someone would notice the difference if they weren't specifically looking for it. But if you can afford it, the Aplanatic would seem like the better option Here's the google definition of Aplanatic: "An aplanatic lens is a lens that is free of both spherical and coma aberrations. Aplanatic lenses can be made by combining two or three lens elements." In other words, the optical quality is just better. But to sum up: The Baader and 0.9x is fine if you're just starting out, but if you can afford the Aplanatic, go for it!
  3. It is greentinted indeed! Corrected here! I wasn't able to draw it down anymore without drawing out a lot of noise in the red or just a hellish blue. But it does look a lot better now!
  4. Edited and updated with a new version. Just some small tweaks after feedback.
  5. Pryce

    DSOs

  6. Pryce

    IC 1805 Heart Nebula

    From the album: DSOs

  7. Here's my result on the heart nebula over 3 sessions with a total integration of 18h 8m Stacking information: Equipment: Sky-Watcher Evostar 72ED EOS 600D Full spectrum mod Optolong L-eNhance EQ6-R Pro Guided (ZWO 60mm guidescope / ASI120MM mini) Stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop & Topaz Denoise I wasn't exactly sure how to process this, as the images I found on google was all over the place, so I had to go with my gut to get a result I found pleasing. I did get some elongated stars in my corners this time around(for the most part cropped out) and I'm not entirely sure why, so I'll have to problemsolve a little bit there. But here we go, my 4th astrophoto. Comments and concerns welcomed!
  8. I'm working my way around polaris atthe moment! Just finished a session on IC 1805(heart nebula). Then theres the Soul nebula, Elephants trunk, packman and many many more! There are some really cool targets to the north😁 They're also very forgiving to me as a beginner when it comes to processing. But I have a EQ6-R Pro mount, so I don't know how these targets will turn out with the (likely) short exposures you're limited to. But they're worth a shot!
  9. I tried stacking in intersection mode, and that cropped it this far in. Just a quick and dirty edit to see what I had to work with. Well, I guess I'll just store the data from my first location for later. I have 3 more clear nights(hopefully) at the location I'm currently at, so it's not the end of the world! I'll see what I have in 2-3 days! 😁 Two sessions and only 55 minutes of data? : o But it looks good though! Especially for less than an hour of data!
  10. DSS did NOT like that. I had to go through all the frames to see if I had a rogue one. Last nights session and the day before are both roughly centered on the heart of the heart. I don't quite understand the tilt that I'm seeing here
  11. This might sound stupid and I'm pretty sure it would be fine. But I'm imaging from one location tonight and from somewhere else this weekend. So I'm wondering if it's fine to stack this data or if I'll run into any problems?
  12. I use the L-eNhance with my 600D and that works perfectly fine. Even when focusing or framing. I have read that using the L-eXtreme with modified DSLR may have some issues with focus or framing. Though its probably a good filter if you can overcome those issues.
  13. Great! Thanks for your input! Then I'll try to find a material that evenly diffuses the panel and I'll give it a shot!
  14. Hey guys, so I ordered a led tracing board to take my flats, as I havent done that yet. But when it arrived today I noticed that it has a dotted field and not a "flat" field. Will this matter when I'm taking my flats? I put a piece of paper on it to show its effect when diffused, but I'm still a bit unsure. Obviously thats low quality copy paper. So plain white fabric would probably be better.
  15. Yeah exactly, I've found these as well. Oh well, it's a fairly small investment to test out before switching to 2" entirely. Might as well give it a go
  16. Bump. Haven't really found any information about this anywhere
  17. It also has a lot to do with the Doppler effect. The longer away it is, the farther the wavelengt of the light is being dragged out over distance, which redshifts it and our images(with a color camera) ends up being more red!
  18. Does using a clip-in to 2" filter adapter work properly or does it lose some of it's effect? I'm concerned that the "edges" of the clip in filter will block the light path when it's further away form the sensor than what they're designed for, so I'm not sure if I should get an adapter or switch out my clip ins to 2" filters instead. Link for referance: https://www.highpointscientific.com/astronomik-eos-clip-to-m48-filter-adapter-eos-m48
  19. My camera has a temperature sensor and records the temp in the file name! But I'm not sure I understood that last part!
  20. If you're using ATP, you could use pointcraft to platesolve to the targets! I have no experience with "point and shoot" as I got all that sorted before I started with my first image. But it's super simple. Install the databases, select a target in APT, click GOTO++ and the rig finds the target by itself, no matter how faint it is
  21. From the album: DSOs

    As it's still only my third astrofoto, I'm quide satisfied with the result. Thansk to everyone that's assisted with input and guidance! 10h 45m integration 121x320s Lights @ ISO800 200 Bias 27 Darks No flats Sky-Watcher Evostar 72ED EOS 600D Full spectrum mod Optolong L-eNhance EQ6-R Pro Guided (ZWO 60mm guidescope / ASI120MM mini)
  22. So, to maximize my imagingtime on the clear nights I'm considering creating a library of darks in different temperatures. I figure that its a good project to do when I have clouds. So my question is, how often do I have to change my darks if I do go for a library? Would it be a good idea to get 50ish in different temperatur ranges and then taking 2-4 each imaging session and replace the oldest ones in the library? Or should I just do this project every now and then in different temperature ranges? And lastly. Should I have separate folders for each degree or can I create ranges from say 5 to 1, 0 to -4, -5 to -9 and so on?
  23. I'm using photoshop! I strected it a bit further and enhanced local contrast to reveal some more detail and make it pop.
  24. I am extremely happy with the extra data, especially considering this is still only my 3rd(or 4th if you consider the extra data as a new image) astrophoto! And I Finally solved my star halo problem! It was stacking related as I suspected! 10h 45m integration 121x320s Lights @ ISO800 200 Bias 27 Darks No flats Sky-Watcher Evostar 72ED EOS 600D Full spectrum mod Optolong L-eNhance EQ6-R Pro Guided (ZWO 60mm guidescope / ASI120MM mini) Fairly quick edit here. Some basic levels adjustment, contrast and color adustments and a modest nosie reduction in Topaz DeNoise Comments & Concerns welcome!
  25. Here's a quick and dirty edit. just over 10 hours of data in this one, stretched and slight curves adjustment, set RGB levels and a modest noise reduction in Topaz DeNoise
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