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Richard_B

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Posts posted by Richard_B

  1. 2 hours ago, OK Apricot said:

    Thanks guys. I'll look into the 32mm. 

    I'm still learning this mount and want to persevere with it before just sending it back, you know, in case it's me doing something not quite right. I do take my time with levelling and alignment as mentioned and recently have had some objects in the FOV, and I'd hope the wider field of a lower power EP would turn that some into most. That'll do for me for the time being. 

    I use a BST Starguider 25mm as my widest lens - this is with a ST102 though which gives me the equivalent of a x20 magnification

  2. 2 hours ago, OK Apricot said:

    Thanks guys. I'll look into the 32mm. 

    I'm still learning this mount and want to persevere with it before just sending it back, you know, in case it's me doing something not quite right. I do take my time with levelling and alignment as mentioned and recently have had some objects in the FOV, and I'd hope the wider field of a lower power EP would turn that some into most. That'll do for me for the time being. 

     

    14 hours ago, bosun21 said:

    When I first got my 127 Go to I used a Celestron Omni 32mm for finding my targets. However if you do a few things during the alignment procedure it increases the accuracy of the Go to substantially. 1/ Ensure that your tripod is accurately leveled. 2/ On the first star alignment try and ensure that the last two movements are with the up/right keys. 3/ When selecting your second star choose one to the right and higher than the first and ONLY use the up/right keys again to centre the star.( if you overshoot slightly, allow the earth rotation to bring it back) 4/  If possible use an eyepiece with an illuminated reticle to centre the alignment stars, 

    By doing these steps I can use a 25 or 15mm eyepiece and my targets will be in my FOV

    Thanks for this tip - I'll have a go as I am having difficulty with this mount

  3. On 11/02/2022 at 12:33, Starslayer said:

    MMm. Another good idea. The double shoe thing may be a bit bulky and I am not sure if one side would interfere too much with ep area.  Not seen the Rigel in the flesh. I have a telrad on my sct which is big. Too big for the ST.  The rigel always looks a bit skyscraperish to me. I don't suppose you have a pic of it on your ST102 do you? 

     

    ST102.jpg

  4. 25 minutes ago, Mr niall said:

    Generally the biggest problem is that they aren't very well corrected at the edges due to the short focal length so you get a lot of fuzziness and coma from at least 50% out. I toyed with this a few times too but in the end decided that a pair of binoculars worked out better all round in most circumstances

    Thanks for the reply. I have seen some imaging done with just a basic guidescope and it was OK. If it will work in principle I may give it a go. Plus I could useit as a better findertscope for my main telescope 🙂

  5. I have the same scope on an AZ GTI mount. I have a cheap 90 deg erecting prism to replace the 45 degree that came with it. Might upgrade this at some point.

    I bought BST Starguider eyepieces giving a good range of magnifications :-

    3.2 156
    5 100
    8 63
    15 33
    25 20

     

    I did have a 32mm but found I wasn't using it as I also have a upgraded finder scope that gives me x9 magnification and the 25mm BST gave me 20x.

    If you want to limit the number of lenses I would keep your 25mm, and get an 8mm BST with your barlow initially

    Happy with the BSTs and have used the 3.2 recently for Jupiter. As has been said it was low in the sky and seeing was not ideal but I was reasonably happy with what I saw.

    I have spent way too much upgrading my scope and probably should have bought something better from the start but I have enjoyed the process :-).

  6. 2 hours ago, Franklin said:

    ZWO 5x1.25" manual filter wheel is the best one around for about £65 I think. There are generic ones under different brands from China which are much the same. I would avoid the very cheap 3x1.25" China ones.

    I have seen those in various places. Just wanted to be sure that I would not have a focus issue. I guess I could get one from FLO and return if it isn't suitable

  7. Hi all

    I would like to get a cheap manual filter wheel for at least 5x 1.25 filters.

    I currently use a SW ST102 with BST Starguider eyepieces.

    Can anyone recommend a filter wheel setup that they know will allow me to focus correctly with these eyepieces.

    Also I would like to be able to focus with a T2 adapter and camera wirh the same filter wheel - although this is not a deal breaker. I have had issues with 2x barlow and camera not allowing focus.

    Thanks

    Richard

  8. 1 hour ago, TerraC said:

    I bought one of these for mine..   Cheap, decent quality.  Dont expect to be able to run over them with a car :D   But my Startravel 102 does great for basic protection and lugging it around.  

    https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/our-brands/roc_flight_cases

     

    https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/roc-cases-large-silver-flight-case-with-foam-insert-l680xw300xh190mm

     

     

    2021-04-08 17.43.45.jpg

    Looks like the one I saw on amazon

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BM3QRUG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1L33HI8UP9H90&psc=1

    • Like 1
  9. 34 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

    Yes, best you can do is search for images of planetary nebulae or super nova remnants over years to see how slowly it expands when observed from a distance.

    Have a look at this for example: M1 expanding over years: https://www.astrobin.com/full/327338/0/

    If you are really interested in transient phenomena on stars - these can also be "observed" - but it requires specialist equipment and approach. I think that @andrew s does something like that with spectroscopic observations - records how spectra changes over time for stellar flares.

    That is an amazing timelapse of M1- thanks

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