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Snoani

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Everything posted by Snoani

  1. I cam across this while backing up my images today. It is the earliest DSO attempt that I can find. It was taken in January 2014 using a stock Nikon 7100 mounted on a Meade ETX 80 Go-To scope. The image is made up of 30 x 1.3 second subs, which I have very quickly reprossessed with editing techniques that I have picked up over the last year. All in all, it has turned out far better than I remember, especially considering there is only 39 seconds of data. I have just restacked it to double check the autosave from DSS did relate to the raw data.
  2. Hi Simon I could be wrong but I very much doubt that the wifi adapter will work on the ASI Air Pro because the drivers would be made for Windows or Apple Mac and the ASI Air essentially wouldn't know what to do with it. However, while you are away from home you should be able to connect directly to the ASI Air using your phone or tablet. Once you have set it up for the night using the app and it has started an image run, it will do its thing without needing the controlling device near it. I use mine exclusively in my garden, which the wifi signal from my house doesn't reach well.
  3. I decided to give it a second try. I think I have manage to control the brighter stars better, although I have not completely removed the green from some. It has certainly stopped the light from Alnitak from overpowering the colour in the Flame Nebula. The only thing is that I would like to see the nebula with a touch more red but I have had to sacrifice this to balance the image as a whole.
  4. Thank you both for your comments. It is always appreciated to receive feedback. My scope is actually a Meade 6000 triplet APO (with FPL-53) and a 1600MM Pro and I do seem to suffer with an issue where the colours form some of the brightest stars don't align well. It is not a filter issue because I have noticed the same thing has happened when I was using a DSLR. I wonder therefore if the lenses in the scope are slightly out of alignment. If it is I don't know if there is somewhere that might offer a repair/fine tuning service. I don't have Pixinsight due tot he price of it an
  5. I posted a capture of the Horsehead Nebula in the New Year that despite some issues I was really proud of. However, it did come to my attention that it was a touch out of focus. It looked fine to me on screen but less so when I tried to produce a print of it for my wall. Over the last few weeks I have therefore endeavoured to produce a better image of this target and overcome several trials during the process, including an unscheduled rain shower that breached my image train and prevented me from calibrating some of my lights. It is more in focus than my other attempt but I am not su
  6. It looks a bit grainy to me, I think you should be more aggressive on the dithering.
  7. Sorry, that was my error. Yes, it can be used with DSLR but I haven't myself. I expect that it would function the same, just without the cooling option and ISO instead of gain. I'll take the liberty to answer this as well I removed the adapter that fits into the finderscope shoe and bolted it to a small dovetail that I connected to the top of my tube rings. This way, most of the cables, which are connected to devices attached to the scope itself, move with he scope and only three cables go to my mount or elsewhere.
  8. I am in awe. I can only hope to produce something of this quality in the future.
  9. After my laptop died a few weeks ago, I decided to plump for an Asiair to replace it and streamline my rig, which it very much has done. I now only have one power cable running to my scope, instead of four power cables and one USB. I've only used it a few time but I can give you experience so far: 1. It doesn't have to be within wifi range but will need to be in range of an ios or android device. I use mine within range of my wifi and so I can control it from anywhere in my house. However, it can be linked directly to your phone or tablet and programmed that way. I believe, but can'
  10. If I understand you correctly, I had a similar problem with my scope. I couldn't sit it forward enough to balance it. After many many weeks of considering this and looking at expensive replacement tube rings and the corresponding spacers I ran across a thread with a simple solution. Essentially, I purchased a couple of longer hex bolts and a bag of M6 metal washers from Screwfix and used these as spacers between the dovetail and tube rings. I have had not issues and can now balance without compromising anything.
  11. It is that simple? There is a little more colour in this one, and I have sharpened it a bit, but it doesn't even come close to the ones I see on this forum. Still, that just gives me the motivation to try again and improve.
  12. I didn't setup last night with any intention of capturing the Moon, I was trying (and failed) to have a go at capturing the ISS, however, while I was setup I decided to look to the Moon for the first time in a number of years. I am not an expert on Lunar photography in any way and as I was using a mono camera with RGB filters, which I expect is far from perfect, I stacked 10 images in each channel and combined these into the single colour image below. Unfortunately the blue filter was a little out of focus, but all in all it is an ok image. I was hoping for more colour like some o
  13. It is a lovely image. It makes me want to give M42 one last crack for the season.
  14. I have taken delivery of a couple of new toys this week in the form of an auto focuser and ASIAIR Pro and took the opportunity of a few days clear skies to have a play, while also trying to resolve some spacing issues. With the moon increasing in size I decided to focus primarily on H-Alpha filter. I think that these would have been crisper with less of the moon on show but I am still happy with them and look forward to adding some colour data in the future. Horsehead - 29 x 360s light frames in H-Alpha calibrated with darks, flats and dark flats. Lobster Claw
  15. In answer to your first question, I would say that they are one of the easier targets to capture, but can be one of the harder to process due to the brightness of the star(s) in the region. The Horsehead and Flame are right next to each other and the entire thing can be imaged with with anything up to 700mm, although I personally think somewhere between 350mm - 480mm can frame the whole thing nicely. What I don't know is whether your DSLR is modified. The hydrogen gas around the horsehead is beautiful if it can be captured.
  16. Thank you both for your replies. It is still looking like I shall have some clear sky time tomorrow night, so I'll start the night by taking a few images at 90 degrees before returning to my normal rotation and undertaking an image run. I hope that it will be that simple to identify, albeit maybe not to resolve the problem. I've not attended a star party myself, although I believe that it is still running, albeit not in the last 10 months for obvious reasons.
  17. Thank you for your reply. I don't think it would be tilt because I think this would have shown up on the experiment that I ran earlier. However, I hadn't considered rotating the camera or testing the exposure length. I am forecast some clear skied on Thursday and hopefully these will materialise. I'll give your suggestions a try then.
  18. Evening all Since putting together my rig earlier this year, I feel that my images have improved massively and continue to improve as I gain experience and learn from my mistakes. However, one thing that I have been plagued with from the start is elongated stars in the corners of my images. I had honestly believed that these were due to a back focus spacing issue but I have taken the opportunity tonight to run an experiment and it appears that my field flattener and flattener/reducer are both spaced and working perfectly, so I am now left with the conclusion that it is another issue. I
  19. I've just tried and can access but just a few days ago I received an error when trying to access the manuals. I did manage to circumnavigate the problem to find the manual I needed by going to the product in question and clicking on the manual link from that page. Jem
  20. They can and should be taken for each and every filter used. Jem
  21. I can't claim to be an expert in any way but it looks good to me. A really nice image. When zooming in it looks like you have a hint of DSLR walking noise. If you didn't do so, I would recommend that you consider dithering as it a god send, particularly when using a DSRL. That said, it doesn't remove anything from this image and you should be pleased.
  22. I've taken advantage of a few clear evenings over the last week to make my first serious attempt to capture the Horsehead Nebula. It is made up of just 20 x 180s of each RGB and 20 x 360s H-Alpha using an ASI 1600MM Pro, Meade 6000 80mm and HEQ5 guided. It does have a little bit of light from nearby Alnilam intruding from the top of the frame, but this is significantly better than what I had to crop out. All in all with the limited data that I have taken I am very happy with the result. Constructive criticism is always welcomed.
  23. Thank you both for your replies. That makes sense and now that I have looked at the FOV on Stellarium, it makes complete sense. I am frankly just glad it is not an equipment issue. I left my rig in tact last night and have just setup as I have a lovely clear sky currently, and I will continue to capture as it is and crop the final image. I very much appreciate your help with this.
  24. Thank you for your suggestion James. I ran a search and looked through numerous posts but couldn't find anything similar. All frames are showing the same issue so I decided to end the run on that filter and try others. It is appearing on all filters apart from H-Alpha, which I assume is because the light frequency is being blocked. I think that there must be something in my image train. I am therefore undertaking a significant H-Alpha run tonight, because my mount is guiding as good as it ever does, and tomorrow I'll break down the image train to check for artefacts before the forec
  25. Evening all I have just setup for a night of imaging and have trained my scope on the Horsehead and started the image run as usual. However, I have just looked at the first light frame to find a 'streak' in the corner that I have never experienced before. I wonder if anybody could provide some advice about what it may be? I am using an ASI 1600MM Pro on a Meade 6000 APO. It is only the third time I have used the camera, but I did not experience this the first two time. I don't know if I have problem in the image train or whether it can be removed with calibration. Yo
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