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Kyle Allen

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  1. I use a similar set up with my Star Adventurer (with a slightly bigger scope) and it works fine. Just try to get everything well balanced to reduce the strain on the motors.
  2. I agree with the above comment. Being around F/9 you will need very long exposures to capture a significant amount of signal and this only adds to the challenge of a long focal length.
  3. How about a BST StarGuider 5mm? It will provide 130x magnification in your 130PDS. That should be good for Jupiter and Saturn at their current low altitude. For Mars you might want a bit more magnification though.
  4. The RedCat is more suited to imaging wide field deep sky objects with a tracking mount. For lunar imaging, have you considered a Maksotuv? They have a long focal length in a small package. Also, they are cheaper than an equivalent sized refractor.
  5. The first image is just under 2 hours. The second image is about an hour and a half. All 60 second exposures. Are you planning to get the matching field flattener as well?
  6. You won't be able to use an eyepiece with just the T Adapter so you will need to purchase that other adapter. You should hopefully be able to reach focus that way.
  7. Do you mean this one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mystery-Telescope-Adapter-Extension-Mirrorless/dp/B01IN6N0XG/ref=pd_lpo_421_t_0/261-8212470-6264061?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01IN6N0XG&pd_rd_r=d46405a1-ab19-42db-8c6f-6fae350e59ba&pd_rd_w=yhr4k&pd_rd_wg=stnHM&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=G31H6J5GK2CJWQ51MYWC&psc=1&refRID=G31H6J5GK2CJWQ51MYWC
  8. Yes, the one you linked to earlier allows you to use an eyepiece so you will be able to reach focus.
  9. I would have thought a 3x Barlow would push the focal point far enough out for you to reach focus. If you are close to reaching focus, I guess you could try to push the primary mirror forwards (up the tube) slightly by loosening the collimation adjustment screws but you'd have to be careful they don't disengage from the mirror cell.
  10. Are you sure you can reach focus? Try moving the focuser through it's full range of travel while watching the image from the camera and see if the image gets progressively sharper and then blurry again. If it doesn't start to defocus, then you still haven't got enough focus travel.
  11. I think Light Pollution Filters only work if the main source of light pollution is from sodium street lights. All filters work by blocking certain wavelengths of light and allowing others to pass through. This results in a dimmer image but higher contrast. Sodium street lights can be filtered out because they only emit light in the orange part of the spectrum but newer LED street lights emit light across the whole spectrum so can't be filtered out.
  12. I've only had the Zenithstar 61 since the end of April this year so I've only been able to try it out on some galaxies and globular clusters, which aren't ideal for a widefield scope. Still, I'm pleased with the images I've been able to produce. On the Star Adventurer, a bigger scope would be pushing the limits of the tracking accuracy as well as the payload so you probably wouldn't be able to put the extra resolution of the bigger scope to good use. This is what I've managed so far on a couple of galaxies...
  13. I use the William Optics Zenithstar 61 on a Star Adventurer mount. I'm still relatively new to imaging but I'm pleased with the results I have got from it so far. I too plan to get an HEQ5 in the future but I want to get the most out of my current set up before upgrading. The Star Adventurer handles the Zenithstar 61 just fine but I'd be a bit nervous about putting anything bigger on it even though the stated payload is 5kg. I use the ZWO ASI 120MM as a guide camera with the mini guide scope. I find it necessary to guide otherwise I get star trails due to periodic error.
  14. Is your telescope a Newtonian reflector? If so, it is common for them not to reach focus with a DSLR. This is because the sensor is located deep inside the camera body and you run out of inwards focus travel. You could try using a Barlow lens if you have one to push the focal point further out.
  15. For astrophotography, have a look at the Skywatcher Star Adventurer mount. It is designed for use with wide field or medium focal length camera lenses. There are plenty of large deep sky objects that look great when imaged with a wide field set up and it will be far more forgiving of tracking errors or polar misalignment. It’s not really suitable for observing though. Without spending a fortune, you will struggle to get something that can do both observing and imaging well. Aperture is key for visual observing but this means extra size and weight so you need a more stable mount. Most of your money will be spent on the mount for imaging. For observing deep sky objects, you can’t beat a Dobsonian telescope for the price. You may be able to get a six or eight inch aperture Dobsonian and a Star Adventuer within your budget.
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