Astro NGC

having tested it last night under clear skies, the switch seems to work properly, despite the noise. so I guess I just have to ignore it. thank you for the replies

it doesn't seem to help, the only other lens I have with IS doesn't make a noise

it seems to make the noise when the IS is switched off, but not when it is switched on (when taking a picture in viewfinder mode) so now I'm not sure whether it is IS or not. (it is definitely not autofocus either) when live view is on and when taking a picture in live view mode it always makes the noise

yes, the lens switch doesn't seem to be turning lens IS off

I looked through the menu and I can't find anything relating to image stabilisation

yes

I have a Canon EF-S 55-250mm IS lens (with a canon EOS 100D) and I have noticed that the image stabilisation turns on whenever the live view mode turns on (even when the stabiliser is turned off on the lens). When I switch off live view, it sometimes turns off and sometimes it stays on and I think it is messing up a lot of my long exposure photos. I’ve attached a photo of what one of the images looked like (although it normally isn’t that bad) Is there any way to stop this from happening so I can use the lens at 250mm?0

yeah, that's probably something i should try thanks

yeah that makes sense, thanks maybe i'll build up the courage to cut open my telescope eventually

can you adjust the weight's distance for different payloads? if not would it be better to purchase a lighter counterweight for the adjustability (the star adventurer counterweight appears to have a similar diameter) so i can use different lenses? also, you mentioned having a 650mm scope, is this the 130p (not the DS version) because I have that and it cannot focus to infinity with a canon 100d, is there a solution to this problem without using a barlow lens? thanks

i've taken it off, it's less imbalanced with the counterweight off than with it at the top

I think the polar alignment should be ok, even though there isn't a polar scope. i also think the motor speed is good as i spent a while to get it correct with a telephoto lens my setup isn't balanced as the counterweight is too heavy for just a camera and lens, this could be the problem but i'm not sure what i can do about that Thanks

Thanks, i'll try some of these and see if they help

Hi all I am currently using an unmodified canon EOS 100D Skywatcher eq2 mount with the RA economy drive for astrophotography in my backyard. I'm just borrowing the camera from a family member so I cannot modify it. my lenses are 18-55mm, 50mm and a 55-250mm. my question is whether it would be be best to get a better tracking mount or a new camera which I could modify. I'm looking at either a star adventurer or a star adventurer mini because they seem to be the best value cheap astrophotography mounts. they both have a polar scope (which my current mount does not have) and the mini is cheaper but probably can't track as well at longer focal lengths. i notice that a lot of the images from my eq2 mount are ruined by vibrations and they are limited to 30-60s (even at 50mm), would these mounts fix this? The camera would increase my sensitivity to H alpha, i'm not sure whether that would make a bigger difference than a different tracking mount. Any help would be appreciated Thanks

I was wondering if a duo narrowband filter (I’m looking at the zwo one with Hβ/Oiii and Hα) could work as a light pollution filter (I’m in a Bortle 5 zone) and provide somewhat true colours, since only a few wavelengths actually get through. How would this compare to using a light pollution filter with a narrowband filter (e.g. a Ha filter)? also, since less light gets through, does this mean that you will need longer exposure time to get a comparable image?