Robindonne

We have a brand(i think international) that sells covers for garden furniture, “pro garden”(what a coincidence!!).  I bought 2 lawn chair covers.  They are lightweight, ventilating and Have a top part thats almost perfectly angled for a scope. Also thought about covers and while looking at bbq-motorcycle-parasol covers etc.  This chair cover fitted the best.  70x70x150/105 cm and €8,- each. Also very handy to keep your set clean etc when stalled Inside.  

Check if the mount is a 220v. Or 100v ?

What would really help in the future is a section on this forum where all can post his or hers setup, gear, assembly etc.  And their satisfaction rating when using that equipment.  Just like astrobin registers the setup used with the showed image, it would be great to have a forumsection like this.  
Search for scope brand/model, oag and cam and see how much of us use this combo and how its rated.   I think it’ll work because who doesnt want to showcase their arsenal?😉.  Or just Search for a scope type and see what others use to complete their ap setup for example.  How much the combo is used and rated.  Etc.  Maybe for the future.  Im sure that a lot of satisfied hobbyist, without facing issues, don’t show up as often as the ones that have questions/issues. And therefore a lot of good info will be missed in info-asking-topics.  
There are so immense much accessoires available that wont work when used with another accessory.  

like an advice/gallery/review section 

oag A wont work with cam B or scope C🙄.   On the other hand its fun to find out yourself.   

maybe forget about it.🙄.  Interaction and Discussions are more fun in the end
 

17 hours ago, Grierson said:

With apologies to Robin

No please ask all.  I highjack threads all the time.  Its far more better to have multi brand/item threads regarding the same issue.  😅

If someone finds time to explain to me(us). 
 

if you choose the battery solution from corncrake, do you advice to just use your existing powerbrick? And does the battery needs to meet a number?(amps or you name it what else) 

if you go for a crowbar, can it be build in a 60x100x30 housing, a housing just for this circuit!  And can You explain or advice what components to use when planning to implement it in a 12v 5a setup?  Or is this a question for a more electric dedicated forum?  
 

thx.  

31 minutes ago, wxsatuser said:

I have no problem using Nevada PSUs, Mike is well respected on the stuff he sells.

I recently bought two expensive transcievers and with them came two free supplies.
This type in fact
https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-psw-30/

One supply powers the two transcievers that are worth around 3grand and the other powers
a geostationary satellite transciever plus an expensive 2.4ghz upconverter worth over 2grand.

Im sure its not a bad brand at all.  I guess its used a lot among hobbyists in this hobby because its implemented through dealers though.  So there must be more out there that will work good.
 For me, and i guess for more, its just a too bulky module to go outside with.  If it were a batterypack It would be more justified To walk around with a medium sized energystation. I hoped to end up with some lightweight and small (attached to the mount legs) powersupply.

 I assume if small boxes/cases with just the protection were available, small as in easy to place between powersupply and the device itself, they would be bought with, in this hobby, the mount.  
Two days ago some here convinced me to buy new switched psu’s.  Ended Up buying Two from meanwell. The costs were low and will have plenty of amps to Feed my devices.   The one thing that keeps missing is that overvoltage protection😬.   The description from another forum member: a switched psu is like A nest of angry wasps that are eager to escape the housing of the psu through the cable stayed in my head.   
maybe i have to go see a doctor for this trauma! 
 

im very open for diy solutions if its good to do for an amateur who can do small soldering. I think all those who have smelled a burned board will say the same.  Its an invisible and unpredictable risk when you rely on a switched psu

14 hours ago, Corncrake said:

a fuse can be added in the good wire, remember that fuses should not be used to protect electronics, electronics will usually fail before a fuse melts !

Fuses are meant to protect surroundings from fire, molten copper, smoking plastic, etc.

Electronic safeguards are needed to protect electronics, then you have a case of who guards the guardian it can get expensive to ensure all failure modes.

And what types of batteries do you suggest to make this setup with?   Im not really fan of to big things to move around every night.  Except this setup, because of the similarity with a batterypack that has a bypass function.   If these were available, and deliver enough amps i would choose one.  Just for the reason to never pass the max 12v but also to be able to drive outside and not worrying about power.  At least if this method keeps the battery fully charged.  

28 minutes ago, Corncrake said:

I've not yet read all the posts, but has anyone said about this method of protection :

You dont need a very big (high capacity) 12v battery leisure or otherwise to give overvolt protection.

A smaller 12v battery can be supplied by the psu into one clamp on the +terminal.
a second wire (screw, clamp, whatever) is then attached to the  +ve terminal BUT NOT TO the psu point of attachment****.

That way if the psu tries to go high it will be clamped by the battery, such that the psu fuse (if any) or its internals will melt as the battery draws amps attempting to reach it.
The output wire from the battery to your equipment will not go higher than the battery.

**** if you fix the equipment wire to the psu wire and then that combo to the battery, think about it falling away / being dislodged / from the battery. The equipment will then only be attached to the psu, which may, in time, then go high while you didnt notice the detachment !

Anyone want a diag ?

 

Yes.  Please.  A diagram would help a lot. Thx

25 minutes ago, Tenor Viol said:

Woudl you mind posting a link to the PS you opted for? Having rad various threads on here, I think I need some decent and separate power supplies for the parts of teh AP rig I'm building. Certainly having the drive on its own.  

Added the link of the one i opted for.  But while scrolling through the models there was a lot i have to remember for later.  I guess my next order will include a 5v 5a ps and for my dslr a 7,5v 2a i think.  If its really a reliable product, safe etc., then the costs are surprisingly reasonable.  

https://www.conrad.nl/p/mean-well-gsm90b12-p1m-tafelnetvoeding-vaste-spanning-12-vdc-667-a-80-w-1293432

just check the connector size to be sure.  

5 hours ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

As for a high voltage appearing at switch-on, was this with the power supply loaded or unloaded

No in my case it was unloaded.  Only had the multimeter connected.  But while always being aware of the risk to end up with damaged electronics, another member posted the same day about his burned mount, and at his second attempt a fried asi1600 and something else.  So he did suffered overvoltages while having his psu loaded.  And it looked like the “safer” linear psu

Great and thx to all.  I just bought 2 switched power Supplies.  Each 12 v and a max of 6,6 amps.  Hope it feels a bit safer.  Havent had any problems with my old psu actually. The reason of course was seeing that “fried” boards are almost getting a common and not even surprising issue.  
a weekly returning thread on forums.  But why they all get cooked?, im not sure if its all overvoltage.  Although it seems like it.   
my amateuristic idea behind those cheap buck converters was starting with a 13 Volt psu, via Dc buck, ending with A double protected 12 volt.  If the psu fails then the buckconverter keeps it at 12 and if the buck fails it lets only 13 v passing through. The step UP was because i thought the step down always lose some percentage in voltage so that should make the 12v psu’s useless. All in a small 30x30 box combined with a fuse sounded pretty safe to me.  But i wasnt aware of all the downsides of these step up or down converters, noice etc.  I use them sometimes in small projects and they never failed on me.   But 12 v and multiple amps... i cant tell.   
But thanks again and hope to see a decreasing number of fried electronics, at least not from me😬

9 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Nope, transformer supplies can go high voltage (failure in transformer), and linear supplies have their own suite of problems (weight being the least of them), and must also be designed & built to high standards.....

For out in the field\star parties, I use a linear bench power supply  0-30v \ 10A,  that used to be sold by Maplins (now defunct) at very reasonable cost.   

I found some meanwell ps’s.   Bought 2 12v 6.6 amps. Indeed went for the medical ones.  Like €30,- each.   Looks all ok. 
Really thought this powerbrickmarket was filled with clones who fail now and then. Although while googling for meanwell brought me at first at the well famous aliexpress, they were also sold by conrad and prices were the same(maybe even better when no import-tax at the conrads ones).  Thx again for helping me out a bit

Hm strange.   It should work normally so something is wrong.  But i guess you already knew that

54 minutes ago, The Admiral said:

Thanks for all your advice. It looks very clear that the ASI120 will serve my needs, and save me a bit of cash . This hobby is expensive enough!

Ah, I have been confused over whether it is supported by the ASIAir Pro. However, I see that according to the ZWO website the ASI120mini version is supported, but not the larger USB3 version . Even better then, a bit of future proofing!

Ian

The larger 3.0 not?  I use it.  And its supported

13 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

I dont think that is fair, it certainly worked for me. I had to slightly adjust my positioning on a couple of occasions to get a star, but this was for targets that are outside the swath of MW stars, and generally have few guidestars regardless.  If OAG was your sole goal, I wouldnt recommend it, but as a guider on a finder scope - perfectly fine.

No your Partially correct.   It wasnt to offend the asi120.  Its more a failure of my own inexperience.   And the stubbornness  to good advices.  I meant it more in a way like Lewis Hamilton participating in a tennis match. Its maybe better to place him in the audience while being participating in a GP he’s better Behind  the F1 steeringwheel.  He’s the second best driver on the grid.  

Also use (tried to) a 120 with oag.  Found 2,5 stars with it.  Some adviced me to use it as paperweight and i listened

Yes thanks.  And i know how hard to take a good picture from the mirror.  Tried it myself last week with a bad result!   So thx.  From what i can see is the tube much bigger than mine.  I have to admit that most of the reactions here, from you all, gave me a much better idea of what a newtoniar should try to reach.  I think the ring will probably help a bit, cooling from both sides should go faster then from the back Only.   And the main goal is of course the surface side first.  
I cant really see the solution you tried with the flat alu ring, but it seems i have them also in my tube.  Forgotten it is deliverd with “baffles?” And the lowest one will probably be replaced or combined with my curved ring plan.   It wont be enough to get the best out of it im afraid.   Trying to find a nicely fit for peltier cooling.  And one of the links above shows a nice looking newton-jacket where most of the stuff can be installed out of sight. Not the most important of course but why not.

2 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

A couple of reputable brands Meanwell, TDK-Lambda, PowerPax, Omron, Yuasa ..... and there are loads more a good\reputable suppliers would include the likes of RS-Components, Farnell etc...

Really big thx.  Wouldnt have come up with any of the brands.  Dont know why its. So hard here in Holland to find These results when searching for powersupplies.   

1 hour ago, billhinge said:

A second hand entry here, I picked up a pre-owned EQ6-R on ebay yesterday, should be here in the next week. Only a few months old and its just had the £700 darkframe tune up. I had planned to buy one new anyway so I thought it was a good price for a tuned and fettled one.

Finally I can use my C11 for planetary again  🙂

Very nice😀.   Im also hoping a lot of quarantine buyers sell their young stuff soon.   I guess the markets will overflow when the world get slowly back to normal 

Oke sorry last non eq6r post in this thread.  Added file is from a thread from yesterday.  

Or at least Let it soaked underwater 

I would hurry trying to remove it on a safe way

30 minutes ago, StuartJPP said:

On the flip side, a freshly charged 12V leisure battery can deliver at most about 14V

Its probably the safest route to power your stuff.  But do you know any with a bypass function?   Or is it then The same Risk of being open to overvoltage.   If a brand sells a battery pack with a bypass function its definitely a good choise for an all-in-one power solution

2 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

With power supplies, the old adage "You get what you pay for" holds very true.

If you want peace of mind, then buy a respectable brand, good quality supply, with the safety features built in and not just given lip service too, but it won't be cheap.... 

What is a respectable brand?   I googled a lot in out country for 12v power supplies.  Its like they’re all the same unknown brand bricks.  The only thing i thought of was buying a laptop ps to be sure its a “brand”.  And because most of them deliver good amps but high voltages i thought using a stepdown converter.  But while mentioning and asking in various threads, non of the reactions are telling me to go this way.  
“Nevada” powersupplies seems a common choosen brand but i bet nobody ever heard of that brand.  Its just that a big shop offers it, otherwise it just wasnt sold and used this much.   
if you can help me with choosing respectable brands?  Thx in advance