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giorgio_ne

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About giorgio_ne

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Computing, HAM Radio, Planted Aquariums, Target Shooting
  • Location
    Sydenham
  1. I saw and held a prototype of this camera at the tiny Moravian stand at the last astrofest. Build quality is definitely there.
  2. Assuming that your OS is Windows have a look at this article: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cut-paste-folder-and-files-have-disappeared-after/1fa00d54-3777-4af0-ac6e-1f621a7ffc26
  3. Have a look at this blog, it concerns the EM-200 but I believe it could also be applicable to the EM-10. https://digitalstars.wordpress.com/2015/04/13/making-an-adapter-box-for-a-takahashi-em-200-mount/
  4. The QHY INDI driver already supports the Polemaster. Have you tried using on Ekos own polar alignment utility?
  5. Yes, it seems it works well. Check this post on Cloudynights: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/586532-new-skywatcher-az-gti-goto-wifi-mount/?p=9860983
  6. I’m interested to know if it is possible to use 1.25” filters with this camera.
  7. The best way to stop Windows updates is to block internet access on the router for the affected computer. Its a standard feature available on any router worth its salt. It generally consists in blocking the MAC address (the hardware address) of the network or WiFi card of the Windows computer.
  8. Sorry! This should be the correct link: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/S7959-new-medium-dovetail-telescope-accessories/1371081_1971053752.html It's a vixen style aluminium saddle with a single brass clamp. It has several fitting holes, four of them are 19mm spaced unthreaded holes.
  9. This saddle on AliExpress seems to have 19mm spaced holes: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b6OIEfjL
  10. This is some very inspiring work Dave! I'm also getting increasingly interested into variable star photometry and exoplanet transits. It is a much more empirical discipline if compared to astrophotography. So, whilst waiting for your tutorial I would be gratedul if you could answer a few questions: - You mentioned this work can be done with almost any scope. I am interested in using a small refractor or telephoto lenses so that I can setup everything more quickly and easily. I have an SX-825 (ICX825) that I could use on my FS-60CB (with flattener) but I feel the image scale might not be adequate (3.55 ArcSec/Pixel). - You took 643 45s exposures, was there any interval between each exposure? - Did you also take bias, flats and dark frames? If yes how many of each? - Do you use any particular technique to calculate exposure times to avoid saturating the variable or comparison stars? - Once you set your exposure time do you change it during the course of the session to adjust it against other factors, like for instance the elevation of the variable star on the horizon hence a thicker atmoshpere? I'm looking forward to seeing more light curves! Giorgio
  11. I don’t use Skysafari as my main planetarium software over KStars, but it is really handy in some situations when I’m near to the scope and I quickly need to sass out what targets are within my visible horizon. I’m a bit of a cable freak... All my usb cables are good quality Lindy cables specifically sized for a particular configuration (I have other scopes, CCD, DSLRs and focusers). They directly attach to the Pi. Power cables are also appropriately sized. I use plenty of Velcro cable ties to minimise cable drag. I’m trying to get rid of the mount usb to serial cable by using a Bluetooth to serial adapter but I still haven’t figured out the correct cabling and serial protocols for my mount... I don’t do planetary, solar or lucky imaging with this setup. For solar imaging I use a different configuration based on a Win10 Intel NUC. Focusing might take longer but I’m not bothered. I use WiFi plus, in my opinion KStars feels a bit sluggish when running on the Pi. Plate solving is also much faster when delegated to the instance of KStars on the laptop (I downloaded the appropriate index files). That’s so true, but I also think the client/server architecture of INDI is so much more efficient if compared to ASCOM and the whims of MS Windows. Once the INDI drivers are properly configured, the Raspberry Pi behaves reliably just like an appliance. I took particular care in choosing an aluminium Pi case and attaching a vixen mini dovetail to it.
  12. In my opinion, the best way to use and appreciate INDI is through an OTA mounted Raspberry Pi and a remote laptop or desktop running a separate instance of KStars. Although my Pi has the full INDI/Kstars combination installed on it, I use it only to manage the hardware connected to it and to guide the mount. I run any INDI client software on my laptop or desktop. I don’t bother using VNC or any other Remote Desktop software for two reasons: performance first. Second, KStars is available also for Windows and Mac OS and only needs to be configured with the network name or IP address of the Pi sitting on the telescope to manage it as if it was directly connected to it. Astroberry or Stellarmate OSs can be easily burned on an SD card and deployed on a raspberry Pi in a few minutes! Kstars for Windows, Linux or Mac OS can be downloaded from its website. Last but not least INDI has a Skysafari plugin that allows me to use Skysafari on my iPad to select targets and slew the mount. As I do so, it’s amazing to see the scope position being updated in real-time on KStars on the laptop. In the attached image is one of my setups: FSQ-106, EM-200, Qsi 690 wsg8, Lodestar X2, SestoSenso focuser, Raspberry Pi 3b+ The Rigrunner power socket also has two USB ports delivering 5amps each. I use one of them to power the Pi. I do not need to use a powered USB hub!
  13. I got LASIK last December at the Moorfields eye hospital in London (they have a clinic dedicated to paying patients) and it was one of the best things I ever done in my life! The whole procedure lasted less than 10 minutes for both eyes.
  14. I have a Mean Well 13Amps 12v power supply: https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/embedded-switch-mode-power-supplies-smps/7211658/ placed inside one of these boxes: From homebase: https://www.homebase.co.uk/weatherproof-box-with-4-socket-10a-extension-lead-8m_p395422 i then use a Rigrunner for 12V power distribution: http://hamradiostore.co.uk/rr-4004u-rigrunner-4-way-12v-distribution-board-dual-usb.html Solid performance!
  15. Why don’t you create your own aperture mask? In this way you will also avoid diffraction spikes.
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